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You may need to reject the carb for a 383. It maybe leaning out and that would cause overheating. Also the cam your using may make less vacuum and cause less vacuum advance and that can cause overheating. You may have both Sanrio going at that same time. This happened to me.
and no i checked the cam its make the right amount of vacuum during the build also weve taken into consideration the carb its the one the engine builder recommended but may need tuning
Make sure all your foam seals around the radiator support are in place. That will push the most air possible through the radiator. Do a compression check and that would let you know if you have a blown head gasket. Not a bad idea with a new engine. There is a tester from NAPA that can test your radiator fluid and lets you know if you have any gas or oil in the fluid again a head gasket issue.
Last edited by donnie1956; May 13, 2015 at 10:02 PM.
Make sure all your foam seals around the radiator support are in place. That will push the most air possible through the radiator. Do a compression check and that would let you know if you have a blown head gasket. Not a bad idea with a new engine. There is a tester from NAPA that can test your radiator fluid and lets you know if you have any gas or oil in the fluid again a head gasket issue.
I did the exhaust check ..... The exhaust is white and smells sweet which is a common indicator I believe ....right?
If you have the right radiator cap theres no need for a spring in the hose, youll notice most replacements dont come with them
Had a similar issue on mine when new turned out Id forgotten about how many lbs the cap was supposed to be and vented/vs non
Right one on no more hose collapsing.
Took running the engine at cruise rpm for a little bit til you could actually see it collapsing (above 3k). Put a spring in for the heck of it not really needed though.
Fixing the head gasket is one thing just find the original cause
After 70 mi or so you got seepage somewhere or a collapsing hose
Make sure there are no cracks in the heads, if they are iron have them magnafluxed or youll have the same issue keep us posted.
Looks to be a head gasket by the symptoms you say are happening. If it's blown no amount of re torquing is going to help. Don't waste your time pull the heads and find out what the problem is and fix it. Look the head gasket over carefully and it should tell you where the problem is.
I live in the Asbury Lakes area and I am getting problems with over
heating. One of my Lifters got damaged when my gas cable stuck and
over revved the engine. I had all of the Lifters replaced and adjusted. The
mechanic said it was also out of timing so he adjusted it. The car (69) Stingray has a new 383 stroker engine installed about 15 months ago, less
than 2000 miles on it. Motor runs great no missing or obvious problems.
Engine was built by Sinister Hotrods and finishing touches by Russ's
Automotive on Beaver St. in Jacksonville.
I had a BeCool new radiator installed, new radiator cap and I removed
the thermostat for checking purposes. I have 3 electric fans on the radiator (2 pushing and 1 pulling)
HHHEEELLLPPP.
Bill Dempsey
904-608-0329 william.j.dempsey@comcast.net
If you have the right radiator cap theres no need for a spring in the hose, youll notice most replacements dont come with them
Had a similar issue on mine when new turned out Id forgotten about how many lbs the cap was supposed to be and vented/vs non
Right one on no more hose collapsing.
Took running the engine at cruise rpm for a little bit til you could actually see it collapsing (above 3k). Put a spring in for the heck of it not really needed though.
Fixing the head gasket is one thing just find the original cause
After 70 mi or so you got seepage somewhere or a collapsing hose
Make sure there are no cracks in the heads, if they are iron have them magnafluxed or youll have the same issue keep us posted.
Springs are put into long bottom hoses to prevent their sucking shut when the engine hasn't had the chance to warm up (pressure) and the engine is operated at a high rpm. Once a normal operating temperature is reached and pressure is built the hose won't collapse.
ok to answer everyone's questions the engine is a re-manfactured 383 stroker long block from raptorengines.com the old water pump was replaced with a new one on installation of the motor the problem had be diagnosed as a blown head gasket the exhaust is white and smells sweet which is a big indicator as well as the overheating as to where the coolant is going i assume when it over heats its pushed out through the coolant overflow while boiling ive seen it happen once so thats the current assumption also i believe the blown gasket might be due to a lack of following builder instructions the say after the first start up im to retorque the head bolts which we never did also there may be some timing and tuning issues to work out as well but thats update i need to get a torque wrench and see if tightening the the head bolts could alleviate this issue
If the head gasket is blown, you cannot re-torque the heads to fix it. You will need replace the head gaskets and check the heads for warpage. When you are getting all the air out, you do that once you are done with the install, at idle, not making 40 mile trips overheating the motor. Who installed the motor ?