CS130 in 1981
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Instructor
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 186
Likes: 18
From: Lower Mainland British Columbia
CS130 in 1981
Putting a CS 130 in my 1981. I have LED bulbs in my dash.
Is this the adapter plug I need,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-140-Wiring-Harness-Adapter-for-GM-10si-Case-to-CS130-Wiring-/380607392030?hash=item589df7e91e&vxp=mtr
Thanks
Is this the adapter plug I need,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powermaster-140-Wiring-Harness-Adapter-for-GM-10si-Case-to-CS130-Wiring-/380607392030?hash=item589df7e91e&vxp=mtr
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Don't know if that's the right harness- as I'm running a custom small case Nippon Denso.
However- here's the info I have saved for using LED for the alt warning.
Found this on the interweb a while back-
"So add a 560Ω current limiting resistor on the anode of the LED, so these two components are in series. Place a 1N4004 diode backwards across the led to protect it from the reverse voltages - these two components are in parallel. This circuit will replace the light.
Tricky part is determining which way to put it in - it won't work backwards. Take the old light out. Switch on the ignition without starting (not "acc", but "on"). Measure in the lamp socket to ground on each side. One side will be +12V, the other near 0V. The resistor hooks to the +12V, the cathode of the LED (and anode of the 1N4004) hooks to 0V.
To test it, take the belt off so the alternator doesn't turn when you start it. Start it, verify the light came on, measure about +12V on the battery. Stop, put the belt on, start again, light should be out. Measure about +14V to verify the alternator is charging the battery."
However- here's the info I have saved for using LED for the alt warning.
Found this on the interweb a while back-
"So add a 560Ω current limiting resistor on the anode of the LED, so these two components are in series. Place a 1N4004 diode backwards across the led to protect it from the reverse voltages - these two components are in parallel. This circuit will replace the light.
Tricky part is determining which way to put it in - it won't work backwards. Take the old light out. Switch on the ignition without starting (not "acc", but "on"). Measure in the lamp socket to ground on each side. One side will be +12V, the other near 0V. The resistor hooks to the +12V, the cathode of the LED (and anode of the 1N4004) hooks to 0V.
To test it, take the belt off so the alternator doesn't turn when you start it. Start it, verify the light came on, measure about +12V on the battery. Stop, put the belt on, start again, light should be out. Measure about +14V to verify the alternator is charging the battery."
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Definitely easier...
Again- not an expert on the CS-but it might be self exciting if the regulator has been replaced-and only require 1 wire..I don't like these (1 wire set-up) as sometimes you have to rev engine to get it to charge....
Here's the rest of the conversation for anyone who wants to use LED-
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/t...ith-led.88735/
WARNING LAMP
This brings us back full circle to the starting point - the alternator warning lamp. As can be seen from figure 5, a schematic for an actual alternator, there is a path to ground from the field current supply input [1] to the regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to [1], equals the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out.
If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light.
As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
Again- not an expert on the CS-but it might be self exciting if the regulator has been replaced-and only require 1 wire..I don't like these (1 wire set-up) as sometimes you have to rev engine to get it to charge....
Here's the rest of the conversation for anyone who wants to use LED-
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/t...ith-led.88735/
WARNING LAMP
This brings us back full circle to the starting point - the alternator warning lamp. As can be seen from figure 5, a schematic for an actual alternator, there is a path to ground from the field current supply input [1] to the regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to [1], equals the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out.
If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light.
As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
That one should work.
I took a quick look at the schematic. Connect a 75 ohm, 5 watt resistor between the pink/black and brown wires at the console cluster if the alternator doesn't self excite when you start the car.
I took a quick look at the schematic. Connect a 75 ohm, 5 watt resistor between the pink/black and brown wires at the console cluster if the alternator doesn't self excite when you start the car.
