78 drive shaft shortening/balance
#1
78 drive shaft shortening/balance
Thanks to forum member Gerry in New Jersey for shipping my DS that I purchased from an ebay member.
Finally got my new drive shaft and have a couple questions. It is the stock length of 29.5 center to center. With the yoke bottomed out in the tail housing my shaft would need to be about 28 center to center. My question is how much play do i need in the yoke in order to not only install the driveshaft but have the proper "play" in the yoke? I realize the rear diff doesn't move like in a normal car so end play should have to be minimal i.e. just enough to install the shaft. Is an inch of play enough? 1 1/2?
I'm thinking a 26.5 inch shaft would work fine. Any pointers here appreciated.
Second question: The shafts need to be balanced with the u joints and yoke in place? Or just the u joints?
I have to take this to a local shop in bumm fu** Idaho so want to be able to tell them correctly.
Finally got my new drive shaft and have a couple questions. It is the stock length of 29.5 center to center. With the yoke bottomed out in the tail housing my shaft would need to be about 28 center to center. My question is how much play do i need in the yoke in order to not only install the driveshaft but have the proper "play" in the yoke? I realize the rear diff doesn't move like in a normal car so end play should have to be minimal i.e. just enough to install the shaft. Is an inch of play enough? 1 1/2?
I'm thinking a 26.5 inch shaft would work fine. Any pointers here appreciated.
Second question: The shafts need to be balanced with the u joints and yoke in place? Or just the u joints?
I have to take this to a local shop in bumm fu** Idaho so want to be able to tell them correctly.
#2
Race Director
IF you still have your old yoke...it should have a wear line in it that will let you know how far it goes into the transmission.
You are correct....I generally go for the ability of being able to take the drive shaft out.
IF you are referring to JUST the drive shaft....The yoke and U-joints need to be in for balancing.
I would HIGHLY recommend SPICER U-joints with NO grease fittings.
The drive shaft shop you are taking this too BETTER know that the U-joints and yoke MUST be installed PRIOR to balancing.....and they need to mark by stamping or applying a paint mark on the end with the yoke so you know how it HAS TO go back together.
DUB
You are correct....I generally go for the ability of being able to take the drive shaft out.
IF you are referring to JUST the drive shaft....The yoke and U-joints need to be in for balancing.
I would HIGHLY recommend SPICER U-joints with NO grease fittings.
The drive shaft shop you are taking this too BETTER know that the U-joints and yoke MUST be installed PRIOR to balancing.....and they need to mark by stamping or applying a paint mark on the end with the yoke so you know how it HAS TO go back together.
DUB