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It was $8 just for four air bleeds, plus $31 to ship. Not a kit, just the four bleeds!
I think I found a local guy with some, Waiting on a call back.
I installed the .073 air bleeds over the weekend. Definitely cleaned up and smoothed out the cold startup! It was very tempting to think about just drilling out the smaller bleeds rather than buy new, but I got mine for less than $9 and a drive into town. I hope you can find some too. Are you sure you can't get any free shipping deals from Jegs?
Found a local air bleed source. Swapped out the 70 air bleeds for 73's. For the most part, what I call the "raw fuel" smell at idle is gone.
Still a slight hiccup when cruising on the highway. I'll try and back out the mixture screws a bit, it seemed to help last time anyway.
It's possible that it's electrical? Not sure.
Plugs and wires are new in the spring of 2013. Perhaps I'll throw a cap, rotor and coil in it and see what happens.
Anybody have an extra QF black secondary link they'd part with?
Still a slight hiccup when cruising on the highway. I'll try and back out the mixture screws a bit, it seemed to help last time anyway.
Dodosmike
Sounds much like late spark timing. Are you using full manifold vacuum advance? Due to low vacuum from my cam I went to an adjustable vacuum can. I think I'd refer you to Lar's comments in an old thread. See response #7 in "Holley carb stumbles at cruise speed".
Sounds much like late spark timing. Are you using full manifold vacuum advance? Due to low vacuum from my cam I went to an adjustable vacuum can. I think I'd refer you to Lar's comments in an old thread. See response #7 in "Holley carb stumbles at cruise speed".
Your getting beyond my mechanical knowledge. Full maifold vacuum advance? Haha....no idea. My cam is stock as far as I'm aware. P.O. rebuilt the motor, so truthfully, I cannot say if is cammed or not. Knowing the P.O., Id say its stock. Stock for whatever the motor came out of or a Vette, no idea.
Ill give the other thread a read, thanks!
dodosmike
Last edited by Dodosmike; Jun 4, 2015 at 02:40 PM.
Your getting beyond my mechanical knowledge. Full maifold vacuum advance? Haha....no idea. My cam is stock as far as I'm aware. P.O. rebuilt the motor, so truthfully, I cannot say if is cammed or not. Knowing the P.O., Id say its stock. Stock for whatever the motor came out of or a Vette, no idea.
Ill give the other thread a read, thanks!
dodosmike
Sorry, it's been so long since I had the stock plumbing and I'm sure there are more brilliant minds here on CF. If I were you, I'd start by finding out if the '78 HEI needs to be plugged into the "timed" vacuum advance port under the carb, or the full manifold vacuum port. The timed port does not apply vacuum to the distributor advance until off idle and was designed for early smog motors. I suspect you'll want the advance hose connected to full vacuum.
I don't know about the SS650, but on my QF carb, the vacuum port at the lower passenger side corner is for timed vacuum, and the one next to it closer to center is for full manifold vacuum. Best of luck!
Sorry, it's been so long since I had the stock plumbing and I'm sure there are more brilliant minds here on CF. If I were you, I'd start by finding out if the '78 HEI needs to be plugged into the "timed" vacuum advance port under the carb, or the full manifold vacuum port. The timed port does not apply vacuum to the distributor advance until off idle and was designed for early smog motors. I suspect you'll want the advance hose connected to full vacuum.
I don't know about the SS650, but on my QF carb, the vacuum port at the lower passenger side corner is for timed vacuum, and the one next to it closer to center is for full manifold vacuum. Best of luck!
If i posted a photo could you tell how it was plumbed?
Ill have a look at the hose routing and see what that tells me.
OK I do see a couple things, the vacuum can on the HEI distributor is capped off with a red plug. Get a fresh piece of hose that fits snugly and test the can first. To test, suck the air out. This will pull the advance plate inside the HEI. Hold the hose shut with your tongue to see if it's holding vacuum. When you release your tongue you should hear the advance plate in the distributor snap back to its original position. If it leaks get a new vacuum can. You definitely want that vacuum advance hooked up if you drive on the street.
Now refer to the QF instruction sheet I sent yesterday so you can see both the timed (right front corner) and full vacuum (right front inboard)
ports under the base of the carb. Or look at it in my photo.
The correct vacuum port to connect the HEI vacuum advance can is visible in your photo number two, also capped off with a black plug. Its right next to the hose that is already being used for something else. Use needle nose pliers to remove the black plug and connect the hose to the distributor there. It's hard to see under the carb there but make an effort to be sure the hose is snug and not loose. If it fits the HEI vacuum can nipple snugly, it will also fit the vacuum port.
The only other thing that seemed odd were the float windows. I can't tell if they're over full, or empty. The correct float level will show gas halfway up the windows while idling. If that's not what you see, then refer to the instructions link and adjust the nut on top of the float bowls until you get it right.
Once you check these two things, let me know how it runs.
Steve
Hey Mike, one more thing. You mentioned the power brake booster is tee'd in with the PCV valve. That's the large line in the back of the carb that goes to the valve cover. The PCV keeps the air inside your crankcase clean by continually sucking it out to the carb where it gets mixed with the fuel/air mixture and burned in the cylinders.
The brake booster needs constant full vacuum to work best and should not be tee'd into the PCV because the PCV is a constant flow line, not meant to operate vacuum devices like the brakes.
Edelbrocks way of punishing Holley carb owners is to drill the manifold vacuum utility port right below the back of your carb. To properly use this port for your brake booster you can either 1) Buy an Edelbrock carb...not! 2) Find a low profile vacuum fitting which Edelbrock used to sell. I could not find it on their website today. Or do what I did 3) use the lowest profile fitting you can find along with a double carb gasket or thick gasket, and grind a small recess in the rear carb flange to make it all fit.
Welcome to my world, it will all work out for you I'm sure. Just pay attention to the little things and take your time.
