The non-greasable vs greasable discussion does raise a good question.

Is this a "monkeys and the ladder" problem or do we have hard analytical evidence to prove that non-greasable u-joints are stronger than a well-maintained greasable one?

FWIW, I've always been of the belief that solid u-joints are stronger, but that's just me regurgitating "common knowledge".

 

I believe we could have proof, in a person here, not a comp desk racer but one of the few cats here who do push their cars on a track, if they come back and say they broke a greasable u joint a time or two and when they swapped in a non greasable they never broke one,
I have had some fairly high HP cars, I broke 2 rock crushers but never a u joint, for me I believe solid is stronger...

 

I don't think I have ever come across a 5-1350-1x. In looking at them I would agree with what you have said. Where the confusion comes in is probably comparing the 5-1350x to the 5-178x grease able joint. This would also be the spicer life series vs a regular spicer. If you look at these two their are noticeable differences and the 5-178x has a weaker looking center compared to the 5-1350x.

 

Looks like amazon sells the 5-1350-1x.

Has the grease zerk on one of the end caps.

Then there is the 5-1350x. Identical to the 5-1350-1x except drillings stop short of the center.

As tech support stated, the joint breaks through the trunion not through the middle. If this is true then it would make no difference as to whether it is drilled through the center or not as far as strength is concerned.

 

I put spicers in my 70 all around years ago and have had no problems out of it. But, I do not beat on the car every time I get it out. I do spin the tires pretty regularly though. I just don't do too many second or third gear tire chirps.

I have seen a blue C2 that replied above, that pulls the wheels when it hit second gear and he says he runs solids. I am sure he makes waaaay more HP than me. So if they live in his, I am sure they will live in mine too.

 

I'm going with solid spicers next week. If I'm not mistaken, off roaders use the solids. I figure the rock crawlers know a good ujoint when they see one.

 

True.

I'm not sure you can even fathom the MASSIVE amount of torque those universals must endure. Not only the extremely low gearing, the high powered engines, and the punishing conditions, but also the torque they must endure trying to turn those huge tires against dirt/rocks/roots. Not to mention the shock loading they get regularly...the type of loading that is the death of lesser universals.

And even if that wasn't enough of a difference, those types of vehicles (if dedicated rock crawlers) drive a rediculously small fraction of the number of miles a 'normal' car drives. It's like comparing the needs of a drag car (which drives 1/4 mile at a time) to that of a street car.

Solids are stronger. There's no way that isn't true. I concur. Yes. Affirmative. Correct-a-mundo.

But unless you're running many hundreds of horsepower (many hundreds) through a reinforced drivetrain, very (very) sticky tires, and make a very (very) regular habit of doing a dead launch on a prepared surface, I submit that you will never (never...ever) have a problem with a "super strength" universal joint.

I will further submit that, over time, more damage will occur on a solid universal by not being able to grease it than on a greasable universal during the course of any sort of REMOTELY normal use.

However, I will concede the point that, given the low mileage that our cars see (2,000 miles per year? A little more? A little less?) that it will take many (many) years for the wear damage on a solid universal to be noticed. A similar amount of wear will occur on a greasable universal that is not serviced.

So, 20 years from now when you've put 40,000 miles on the car...what the hell difference does it make? Not much. If you've pulled the rear driveshafts for ANY reason, smart money would replace the universals either way. Even if they are in fine shape. Just like I JUST got done doing.

If someone can post a single picture of a REGULAR AND IN ANY WAY NORMAL STREET CAR with normal tires that has snapped a 'super strength' greasable universal, I'll pull the greasable super-strength MOOG units off my car tomorrow and replace them with solids.

If folks want to run solids, THAT'S GREAT. Sounds like fun. But do it because you want to. Don't do it for fear that a non-solid unit will break into 5 pieces with the first application of 500 hp.

It won't.

I promise.

 

The part that is being missed is while we are calling the u joints greaseable or non greasable that isn't really accurate,
Just because it doesn't have a zerk doesn't mean you can't grease it...so that is a moot reason not to use the stronger ones with no zerk...if the u joint with a zerk is what you desire go for it...I will not try to sell anyone anything, I just share why I use something or why I do not.
In this case I needed that special adaptor u joint and I have a bb so I went with heavy duty....do I "need" it likely not, I wanted it.

I do admit I get a kick out of the cats who take it as a personal insult when they can't sell you their way as the only way....

 

Yet again, we agree.

You can take the solid universal apart, grease it, and reassemble it.

Of course, if you're doing that, why would you not replace it after you've hammered, wrenched, and otherwise cajoled the thing apart?

And with the weakness introduced with normal wear and it being disassembled/reassembled for service would/could/should bring a solid universal to the "strength level" of a greasable unit. If there is much of a difference in the first place.

So in my mind this is along the lines of putting 10 ply E-load-rated tires on a Honda. Yes, absolutely you can. Yes, absolutely it is a stronger part. Yes, absolutely it will increase the load carrying capacity of this particular component of the car. But you need to worry also about all the other parts before you can truly utilize the benefit of this particular upgrade.

I will NEVER criticize anyone for putting solid universals on their car.

I will NEVER criticize anyone for putting E-load-rated tires on their Honda.

But neither one of those people will be particularly successful convincing me that it's the right thing to do on MY car for a variety of reasons.

In participating in this thread, I'm simply attempting to share my opinion in the matter and why I made certain decisions on my car. Whatever is done with those opinions is certainly up to the person reading them and their feelings about their situation.

 

If I were going to drag race my car I would certainly use the strongest u-joint available because of it's ability to withstand higher shock loads. But for my daily driver 454' powered '71 I don't mind having a bit less strength if I can periodically re-grease it. Whenever I lube my front end I lube my drive shaft zerks at the same time.

 

How is the MOOG fit quality vs the Spicer? I can get the moog (#232) super strength end-cap greasable ones at a good price.

 

That Moog is the exact unit I put in both my half shafts. End cap greasable. Not overly expensive.

The fit was good. It is always a pain to get them in perfect because of all the deflection that is inherent to the cast ends of the halfshafts. I had no trouble putting them in with my shop press.

Getting them to move very freely was a little tricky. I think there was one that was just a small bit tighter than I would have preferred, but figured it would work its way out.

I have perhaps 300 miles on mine with a 450 to 500 HP 350 going through a 4 speed. Everything rolls along like butter.

 

Looks like the Moog ones have a lifetime warranty, as well

 

Ditto...My u joint it doesn't require any hammering or theatrics to grease it, just pull off the cap, and some hondas tires have nothing to do with what u joint I happened to run on my vette...I believe We agree the one I use is stronger & do I need it no.
I fully respect what you are saying...your build your way mine my way....in my case I needed that special adaptor joint and over the counter was a cool touch it happened to be the stronger non greasable one...I have no doubt that it will last just as long as a greaseable one.

Not to sound snarky but I do not care at all what you or any one runs on their car, I would never try to sell how I do things to anyone, I have been in threads that went down the toilet where cats got all insulted and butt chapped when myself of others didn't hail their way of doing it as the only right way...we all know each build is right for the person doing it.