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Well engine did start. Shut it right off. Have a leak on some kind of sensor? Sending pictures. It is leaking out of this.
The green wire in there might be the rest of your temp sensor. So look like your sensor broke which means your gauge wasn't working at all. As someone else said, the engine should have been steaming and spewing before it locked up. Definately talk with your son about what to look for while driving cars, not just put gas in them and go. It also sounds like you really didnt do much test driving the car after you got the motor installed ? who put the broken belt on top of the motor ?
Well after looking at it again water is coming out of the heads so i am thinking it is a blown head gasket to?
At this point I would be calling the "reputable local shop" that built and installed the engine, etc. In less than 2 months, and very little use, you blew your frost plugs, a temp sensor and now possibly a head gasket! Something is wrong with their assembly work!!
At this point I would be calling the "reputable local shop" that built and installed the engine, etc. In less than 2 months, and very little use, you blew your frost plugs, a temp sensor and now possibly a head gasket! Something is wrong with their assembly work!!
Before we blame the shop..(just playing devils advocate here). How was that water pump being driven in the first place. We still haven't cleared up that design. We also dont know if it was always like that or if this shop created that belt setup. Dont want to see it happen again either way if that belt configuration driving the water pump was not up to the task in the first place. Just my $.02
Last edited by mysixtynine; Jun 19, 2015 at 10:21 AM.
A possibility for how this was set up to drive the water pump, not saying WHY this would have been done, just HOW it could be done.....
Driving the water pump off of the crank pulley with no means for adjustment used to be pretty common in the circle track world. Cars had magnetos and there wasn't all sorts of accessories like fresh air helmets etc requiring an alternator. I still see the stuff advertised, it's just the right size belt (usually 2 belts) and it tensions itself when you tighten the pulley.
Seems the installer used one crank to water pump belt then added load on that single belt by driving the alternator off of the water pump. Definitely not a standard or recommended approach.
FWIW and please note that I am not patting myself on the back, just trying to help fellow members........ Everything that I have built that relied solely on gauge monitoring for engine health got a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) installed. LIGHT ON = CHECK GAUGES
I like to use one light, Autometer makes some nice ones, and power it with 'key-on, fused power'. The ground side of the light goes to a low oil pressure switch AND to a high coolant temp switch. The reason I use one light is because the low oil pressure side should test the light every time the key is on and the engine not running. If you have a separate coolant temp indicator light, it will never illuminate unless you actually have an overheat. (Of course you could wire a test button somewhere but then you have an additional light and an added test circuit)
A possibility for how this was set up to drive the water pump, not saying WHY this would have been done, just HOW it could be done.....
Driving the water pump off of the crank pulley with no means for adjustment used to be pretty common in the circle track world. Cars had magnetos and there wasn't all sorts of accessories like fresh air helmets etc requiring an alternator. I still see the stuff advertised, it's just the right size belt (usually 2 belts) and it tensions itself when you tighten the pulley.
Seems the installer used one crank to water pump belt then added load on that single belt by driving the alternator off of the water pump. Definitely not a standard or recommended approach.