Success!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Success!
Yes, I'm a Corvette newbee cranking my own chain but I won't apologize.
After LOTs of hours and 100s of $$ I FINALLY have a fully functioning electrical/lighting system in a low (about 50k) mileage '79 that came from the factory with every convenience. With the exception of all of the horns (alarm-dead; low note-shorted; high note weak/intermittent) and a slightly wonky upper horn contact (one plastic rivet loose) everything works exactly as designed even if the right-hand headlight is a bit reluctant to rise and I can only get 1/2 operation of the headlights (up or down but not both) with the engine off.
I can FINALLY take a drive of about 200 miles total to visit my uncle who bought numerous C3s new when he was in his 20s and 30s. He said of his '69 427ci "I had to sell it before I killed myself".
After LOTs of hours and 100s of $$ I FINALLY have a fully functioning electrical/lighting system in a low (about 50k) mileage '79 that came from the factory with every convenience. With the exception of all of the horns (alarm-dead; low note-shorted; high note weak/intermittent) and a slightly wonky upper horn contact (one plastic rivet loose) everything works exactly as designed even if the right-hand headlight is a bit reluctant to rise and I can only get 1/2 operation of the headlights (up or down but not both) with the engine off.
I can FINALLY take a drive of about 200 miles total to visit my uncle who bought numerous C3s new when he was in his 20s and 30s. He said of his '69 427ci "I had to sell it before I killed myself".
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
His comments about his new '69 (I'm not sure of the exact variant of the 427) were "Weekly or even daily adjustments of the rocker arms/valves" and "It would lift at very high speed and you'd loose traction. I almost had it flying once and scared myself silly because I still wanted to go faster."
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Your horn and buzzer problems are likely due to a worn-out or faulty horn relay. That relay also serves as the buzzer.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Your horn and buzzer problems are likely due to a worn-out or faulty horn relay. That relay also serves as the buzzer.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
If you did an electrical continuity test on the horns (ohmmeter), they would show very low ohms reading. The horn is basically a coil, so resistance is low.
I'm still of the opinion that you have an electrical problem. Time will tell...
I'm still of the opinion that you have an electrical problem. Time will tell...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
I tested them with a fully charged battery and fused positive lead. One blew a 20A fuse, one was utterly dead, one week sounding and would cut out but come back with a little hit. On the meter they read about 1 1/2 ohms, infinite and 2 ohms respectively.
Navigator
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Your horn and buzzer problems are likely due to a worn-out or faulty horn relay. That relay also serves as the buzzer.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
Another possibility is that you have swapped out the original steering 'ragjoint' for a new one. The original had wire mesh imbedded in it so that electrical ground could travel through the steering column. The new ragjoints are not made with that grounding mesh.
Make up a temporary jumper wire (12 ga.) to bypass that ragjoint, connecting upper column with lower section. Then try the horn. If that works, install a short jumper wire with loop lugs to bolts on each half of the ragjoint.
When you are talking about this "wire mesh" and electrical ground - are you talking something like brass? or stainless steel? Any ideas on that? I am assuming this is woven wire mesh - something along the lines of what can be seen here: http://www.bwire.com
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 50
From: Laguna Niguel California
"a slightly wonky upper horn contact (one plastic rivet loose)"
Only one? Horn contacts are a common replacement issue. Buy replacement from GM, not aftermarket, many of those don't fit right.
Only one? Horn contacts are a common replacement issue. Buy replacement from GM, not aftermarket, many of those don't fit right.