Help With Clutch/Shifter Adjustment
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 120
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Help With Clutch/Shifter Adjustment
Ok after MONTHS of converting to hydraulic with an SST kit and a Novak slave and fabricating my own bracket I am getting almost 1 inch of travel at the fork. Its all bolted back together started the car on jack stands and I cant get the shifter to go into any gear when the car is running and reverse just grinds so it seems its not disengaging but why wouldn't it grind in any gear. With the car not running I an put it into any gear except reverse for some reason. I have an adj ball stud also . . do I need to adjust the ball towards the motor? Help this is getting to be the job from hell . . luckily up here in MI we've had a ****** summer so far.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 19
From: Manhattan Beach Ca
Sounds like your into the crapshoot on the adjustment location meaning you need to adjust the pivot ball until you hit the sweet spot.
You should be able to see how the fork is ligned up before engagement. If its already on a funny angle then you know you're out of whack. It should be 90 deg to CL to start of course. Whenever you deviate from stock, its always a trick to get the geometry to work. My .02
....forgot to mention two different TO bearings 1.25 and 1.50. You may need the longer one if you happen to install the short one or vise versa....
You should be able to see how the fork is ligned up before engagement. If its already on a funny angle then you know you're out of whack. It should be 90 deg to CL to start of course. Whenever you deviate from stock, its always a trick to get the geometry to work. My .02
....forgot to mention two different TO bearings 1.25 and 1.50. You may need the longer one if you happen to install the short one or vise versa....
Last edited by Surfer69; Jun 29, 2015 at 04:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 120
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I just went back out and adjusted a bit more. Its much better but not quite at the best spot. I used a stock height bearing because it came with a kit but If I had to do it over Id get the taller one because I think my pressure plate is at the low end of acceptable. I should of bought a new one but the trans shop that machined it said it was OK. I think with a little more adjustment Ill be OK. I did all the math over and over and over and over to make sure I was going to be OK with the right bearing but just in case bought the adjustable ball . . glad I did. Id recommend at least the ball to anyone doing this job.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You may actually be suffering from too much travel. Most pressure plates will fully release the clutch, and provide a .050" gap between the pressure plate and the clutch, with throwout bearing travel between .480 - .520. The release curve is a "bell curve", so you get less clutch release on both sides of this travel spec: If you're moving the bearing over .520" you will actually be releasing the clutch less than at the .500" spec, thus getting into the grinding and hard shifting. Try limiting the bearing travel to .520 or less and see how things feel and release - those are the specs that most pressure plate manufacturers target.
Lars
Lars
