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SO I dug into the situation last night and found that when I pulled the fuse for the CLK/LTR/CTSY 20 amp fuse the draw dropped to 0. Now to start tracing what is on that circuit, unfortunately the diagram I have is poor at best. I have heard the security is linked to this, but who knows, in the massive wisdom of the forum, any likely culprits to look at to narrow down the search. Anyone know of a good source for a detailed wiring diagram? I have an assembly manual and a haynes manual. Thanks.
The security system definitely is tide into the dome light. That's what triggers the alarm. Depending on what year you own will dictate how to disable the alarm. It seems many have had the problem with alarms drawing amps and killing the battery.
In my '79 the following items were on the "Clock/Courtesy" fuse:
1) All courtesy lighting except the underhood lamp but including the spare tire lamp.
2) The clock.
3) The alarm system. The alarm system has a relay and a flasher in the center console just ahead of the shifter. The alarm horn is tucked down below the power brake booster. The only things in the alarm system that consume power are the relay and the horn. The relay should not be powered unless the alarm is triggered to sound.
4) The courtesy light delay module electronics. It is to the outboard side of the glove box taped to the wiring harness. Easiest to get at by removing the glove box interior.
5) The power antenna. Besides the antenna itself there is a relay in the center console behind the emergency brake. If you have a power antenna but it's not working, it can be drawing power if drive cable has broken causing the internal limit switch(es) to not shut off power to the motor. There is a connector (three wire: green, grey and white) behind/near the driver side rear speaker. The relay is powered only to raise the antenna.
6) The main horns. (According to my '79 FSM the horns were supposed to be powered by the Stop/Hazard circuit but they are and were originally included in the Clock/Courtesy circuit. If your horn sounds properly there's really nothing in the circuit that could cause a parasitic draw.
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Of the things I mentioned, the power antenna and courtesy delay timer module are probably the most likely culprits.
I learned from experience that the Clock/Courtesy circuit in the main harness is rather cobbled together with LOTS of splices. Since the positive is orange colored, constantly powered and nearly everywhere in the cabin it is also the most likely to be spliced into for aftermarket accessories.
I've been dealing with similar issues and determined the ctsy light, lighter, clock circuit was the culprit. I pulled the timer out and draw went to zero, replaced with new timer and the same draw was present?
Leave the fuse in place and disconnect each individual component (one at a time) from that accessory string: remove courtesy light bulbs; remove dimmer switch; etc.....until you notice that the drain is gone. That will be the offending item/circuit. Remember that it might be the component in that circuit...or it might be something in the connector or wiring going to that component.
Leave the fuse in place and disconnect each individual component (one at a time) from that accessory string: remove courtesy light bulbs; remove dimmer switch; etc.....until you notice that the drain is gone. That will be the offending item/circuit. Remember that it might be the component in that circuit...or it might be something in the connector or wiring going to that component.
Thanks for the advice, I will hopefully get to work on it before the weekend. Also noticed with the fuse out the aftermarket radio no longer works so I guess I will check it out, who knows what it was hooked into. Common sense says it should have been into the existing radio wiring, but you know what they say about common sense.
If some car stereo business installed it, they would just use a wire 'tap' to hook the power for it into whatever suitable line they found under the dash. It would be best to use the existing radio feed line and also include a separate in-line fuse for the stereo.
I'm just throwing things out there. Did you check if the underwood light and glovebox light are turning off? Do you have a power antenna? Did you unplug the headlight switch and the alarm relay should be disconnected. All these things have a power source after the key is turned off.
If some car stereo business installed it, they would just use a wire 'tap' to hook the power for it into whatever suitable line they found under the dash. It would be best to use the existing radio feed line and also include a separate in-line fuse for the stereo.
Who needs a stereo when you can listen to the exhaust note
Just unplugg it!