I have a question about my lights. Both will open but passenger will open halfway then hit and get stuck on the nose. Anyway I can adjust it? I've round three bolts on each side of the light but doesn't seem to do anything when loosening and retightening. What can I do about it. If you'll notice the lights aren't flush with the nose and I've noticed that the lights have brackets that are cast and they are broken and that's why they aren't flush. But what is the reason for the passenger hitting. How can I fix this problem its driving me crazy. Thanks in advance.

 

I have to push down on the nose right above the headlight lid, in order for the passenger light to open up.

 

The 3 bolts on each side of the headlights are the adjustments and then there are stops to adjust how far they open and close.

 

Hi D,
New member! Welcome!
From your picture it appears to me that there's a 'situation' with the hood surround across the entire front of the car that is causing the problem with the hood fit/alignment and also the mounting of the headlight frames to the header bar which affects the ability to align the headlight doors in the surround openings.
Has this car had work done in that area recently?
Regards,
Alan

 

It almost looks like the header bar is bent. I do know that is a common place to rust out.

 

It does look like there is an issue w/ the hood surround-

Here's one of the better write ups I have seen-

From forum member " Scotts76Corvette "

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...alignment.html

C3 Headlight Door Alignment
"Sharing the fruits of my hard labor. I've seen a number of incomplete and/or erroneous posts on this subject, so I reasoned out the process and tested it on my 76. Here are the steps in the correct order. Do this with the engine not running and no vacuum in the reservoir, or you could get pinched fingers (or worse). Remove the grill (5 screws) so you can reach the mechanism from the front as well as from underneath.

1. If a new installation, center the headlight door in the opening by adjusting the pivot points and the collars (on the hinge posts) at the upper rear corners of the assembly. Hold the door in the closed position and adjust the pivot points until the corners of the door are aligned with the corners of the opening. Don't worry about the final open/closeed height at this point - just be sure the door is centered and on the same plane as the surrounding bodywork when held in the closed position. Tighten the pivot point mounting bolts and verify the alignment is still correct in the closed position.

2. Loosen the 3 bolts on the bracket in front of the vacuum actuator (NOT the ones on the vacuum actuator itself) - the ones that locate the bracket holding the linkage with the springs and the clevis (remove the clevis to get at the center bolt). To remove the clevis, first remove the 2 springs that attach to the clevis pin, then the cotter pin and the clevis pin itself. The other 2 springs can stay attached.

3. Adjust the full open height with the adjusting bolt - the one on the arm that contacts the headlight frame when full open. Out is lower, in is higher. Use a long socket extension and a universal joint to reach the adjusting bolt through the grill opening. Make the bottom of the bezel flush with the front edge of the opening.

4. Actuate the mechanism by hand so you can feel the "over center" condition when the door is fully open and the linkage fully extended forward. Move the bracket until you get a slight interference fit - the linkage gently, but firmly, "snaps" forward into the over center position when you actuate it manually. Tighten the 3 bolts loosened in step 2.

5. Adjust the clevis by turning it on its shaft until the clevis pin (the rod that goes through the clevis, and where the springs mount) is all the way to the front of the curved slot it rides in. Remove the clevis pin and turn the clevis 1 to 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise to give a slight interference fit at the end of its travel in the open position. The clevis must extend enough to push the linkage into the over center position, which is what locks the door in the open position. The interference fit ensures this locking, and prevents rattles too.

6. Last step - adjust the closed position with the small hex bolt - this is in the center of the linkage, and points down at the ground when the door is closed. The hex is small - the same size as the diameter of the bolt itself. Adjust so the front edge of the door is about 1/32" inch lower than the front edge of the opening. This will minimize wind noise and water entry.

7. Test. The door should snap into full open firmly, with a click, but not a thud. If it makes a loud thud or a bang, re-do step 4. The thud means the over center position is too tight, and this will put too much strain on the linkage, damaging it over time.

Note: It goes without saying, but just in case, you should use a good lubricant on all pivot points and moving parts in the linkage. "

 

Hi sorry to not get back to you guys. I have since noticed the fiberglass has separated from what I'm assuming is the header bar. Driver side is okay, it sort of is molded over it and somewhat like glued to the metal panel under it correct? Driver side is okay passenger side is lifted up. And the car was hit recently before I purchased it. I fixed the damage it had and am just trying to get the headlights to open correctly. Yes the hood doesn't align correctly also the bolts and where it attaches too are damaged. I have seen the three bolts on each side when I made the post. And I have adjusted the doors then also. They are Now level with the nose of the car. My only problem is that passenger side will only go up if I push down on the thin part of the nose while someone hits the light switch.