Question About Replacing A Brake Booster
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Question About Replacing A Brake Booster
The brake booster on my '71 finally gave up so I ordered an AC Delco rebuilt. I have read horror stories about replacing these brake boosters but yet I can easily see all 4 of the nuts that fasten it to the firewall. I can't see where the clevis fastens to the brake pedal arm but if I can easily see all 4 of the nuts I would think the clevis would be accessible too. I would think dropping the steering column down would certainly help expose everything.
Do any of you have any other hints to make the job easier?
Do any of you have any other hints to make the job easier?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
First make appointment with your chiropractor.
If you are to broke to retire but old enough to retire then it will be easier to get in there with the seat removed.
Here's a picture of what's up there.
A universal with some duct tape will help with the last nut.
Here's a picture of what's up there.
A universal with some duct tape will help with the last nut.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
I was curious about how the clevis fastened to the brake pedal arm so the picture you provided helped clear up that mystery. I have plenty of swivel sockets and universal joints as well as extensions of all lengths so I have everything I need. I'll start by dropping my steering column down to further expose everything and remove my seat only if it looks like I need to.
Early last summer I installed a Competition Cams magnum cam in my 454" and immediately had braking problems because of the low 5" Hg of vacuum at idle in DRIVE. Rather than installing an expensive electric vacuum pump I got the brilliant idea of modifying my check valve then teeing it into my vacuum tank. Once the vacuum tank is fully charged I have plenty of vacuum to make stop after stop after stop at idle speeds. Something other folks might consider before going the expensive vacuum pump route.
Early last summer I installed a Competition Cams magnum cam in my 454" and immediately had braking problems because of the low 5" Hg of vacuum at idle in DRIVE. Rather than installing an expensive electric vacuum pump I got the brilliant idea of modifying my check valve then teeing it into my vacuum tank. Once the vacuum tank is fully charged I have plenty of vacuum to make stop after stop after stop at idle speeds. Something other folks might consider before going the expensive vacuum pump route.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 582
From: West Monroe Louisiana
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I just replaced the booster in my 73 with a rebuilt one.
I am 6' 2" and weight a little over 200lbs and
I didn't remove the seat or drop the steering column.
I did use a mirror and swivel on 3/8 drive socket.
I put tape around the swivel so it could flex, but
still remain firm. The clip on the pedal pin goes in
from the passenger side so be sure you replace it
in the same position.
Donnie
I am 6' 2" and weight a little over 200lbs and
I didn't remove the seat or drop the steering column.
I did use a mirror and swivel on 3/8 drive socket.
I put tape around the swivel so it could flex, but
still remain firm. The clip on the pedal pin goes in
from the passenger side so be sure you replace it
in the same position.
Donnie
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,905
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I just replaced the booster in my 73 with a rebuilt one.
I am 6' 2" and weight a little over 200lbs and
I didn't remove the seat or drop the steering column.
I did use a mirror and swivel on 3/8 drive socket.
I put tape around the swivel so it could flex, but
still remain firm. The clip on the pedal pin goes in
from the passenger side so be sure you replace it
in the same position.
Donnie
I am 6' 2" and weight a little over 200lbs and
I didn't remove the seat or drop the steering column.
I did use a mirror and swivel on 3/8 drive socket.
I put tape around the swivel so it could flex, but
still remain firm. The clip on the pedal pin goes in
from the passenger side so be sure you replace it
in the same position.
Donnie
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 206
From: Pearland Texas
St. Jude Donor '09
The trick is having a swivel socket and a couple of extensions. The lock on the clevis pin pops up over the end of clevis and then the lock slides and out. Also you will need someone to hold the booster in place from the engine bay side so you can get some of the nuts started.I also did not have to remove seat or steering column ...... automatic.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
I was curious about how the clevis fastened to the brake pedal arm so the picture you provided helped clear up that mystery. I have plenty of swivel sockets and universal joints as well as extensions of all lengths so I have everything I need. I'll start by dropping my steering column down to further expose everything and remove my seat only if it looks like I need to.
Early last summer I installed a Competition Cams magnum cam in my 454" and immediately had braking problems because of the low 5" Hg of vacuum at idle in DRIVE. Rather than installing an expensive electric vacuum pump I got the brilliant idea of modifying my check valve then teeing it into my vacuum tank. Once the vacuum tank is fully charged I have plenty of vacuum to make stop after stop after stop at idle speeds. Something other folks might consider before going the expensive vacuum pump route.
Early last summer I installed a Competition Cams magnum cam in my 454" and immediately had braking problems because of the low 5" Hg of vacuum at idle in DRIVE. Rather than installing an expensive electric vacuum pump I got the brilliant idea of modifying my check valve then teeing it into my vacuum tank. Once the vacuum tank is fully charged I have plenty of vacuum to make stop after stop after stop at idle speeds. Something other folks might consider before going the expensive vacuum pump route.
An outsiders look at your problem. Your new cam does not provide enough vacuum to properly operate your power brakes. You have band-aided the problem by tapping into your vacuum reserve tank. In effect you have a massive vacuum leak that will make your engine run poorly. Rather than replace your vacuum operated brake booster, have you considered installing a hydroboost system? Many who have sing their praises and, with a big block, it will give you more room to access your LH valve cover.
The above will NOT alter your need to remove your current booster, which I found to be a bear and a half, even with removing my column and seat. It WILL address your problem of dependable brakes and perhaps improve the running of your engine by eliminating one vacuum 'leak'.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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