DUB

I do not get that philosophy...doing that is not a real world scenario. having your car with equally aired up tires and settled on flat as possible surface is real world.


Does not surprise me.


Also...you have to take into consideration the brackets that attach to the outer bolts for your front impact bar. On how these pieces work in conjunction in how it aids in front end support.

Also...the reason I wait to bond in the front section of the inner skirts...is so when the front clip is on. I can set up and bolt up the lower valance panel and get it perfect. There is a lot more than meets the eye when putting a one piece front clip on a car like this. That is if proper fit is important. There are a lot of dynamics that come into play....and 'tricks' that if employed during the set-up...will allow the procedures performed after...actually work out well.

DUB

4rensic22

Thanks. Proper fit is important. The last thing I want is for the front end to be crooked or for the gaps to be off.

4rensic22

I am making progress here. The instructions that I have suggest using a 2x4 between the alternator bracket and the radtor support to achieve the 43" inch distance between the drip rail and the rear hood bolt. That works, but the hood rides on the 2x4.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

SB64

A picture might help but it sounds like the front of the clip is low. Can you shim up anything or are there frame extensions that can be raised.
R

4rensic22

I think I see what your saying, I have the driver's side rocker panel installed and the fit is pretty good. But if I can raise the front of the clip a little further maybe the hood will clear the 2x4 and then it will seat. I may pull the radiator as that should make the support easier to move.

SB64

Worth a try. I know when I was doing the 69 clip it took forever to get both sides right and seemed like all I was doing was going up and down with the front. Good luck , hope it works!
R

4rensic22

We are back to trying to install the front clip. Obviously we only work on this car occasionally, generally when my son is on leave from the Coast Guard Academy. My younger son is now getting involved so we do some work when his older brother is at school.

Since my last post on this thread, I gave up fighting with the mechanical fan hitting the shroud when the radiator was at the specified distance from the firewall drip edge. We installed dual electric fans and a new aluminum radiator. The rear hood hinge bolt holes are now at 43". (You will see a wire at the top of the fan shroud since we still have to drill and install our custom brackets)

Presently, the passenger side fender is overlapping the door significantly while the driver's side is short. I think that if I loosen the radiator brackets and pivot the radiator more toward the fire wall on the driver's side that might help. I have tried adjusting the frame extension in the same manner.

The aftermarket front clip still seems to be canted toward the passenger side.

If I attach the bumper extension, the bumper peak is canted to the left of the peak between the headlight openings.

This car was hit in the driver's side nose before I bought it, but I paid to have the frame straightened. The frame shop only had to straighten the frame extension. It is possible that the extension is still tweaked but I believe the front clip fit more square to the doors when I first dry fit it years ago. I also measured the frame years ago and it appeared to not be bent.

Also does anyone have a measurement from the top of the wheel to the lower edge of the fender (front). I am using the stock springs.

Any suggestions as usual would be appreciated. I can take more photos with the clip removed tomorrow.

Thanks

4rensic22

The13Bats

Likely different people who have done this job have found tricks that work for them, and what works for you is never wrong,

I really like this cats down to earth take on it

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...lacement_1.htm

SB64

What would it look like if you lined up the passenger side of the clip first and then moved to the drivers side. Would you have the same dilemma transferred to the drivers side?

4rensic22

Good idea. I'll get back to you.

4rensic22

Oddly, I still have a gap on the Driver's side when I align the passenger's side fender. We are now adjusting the horns on the frame extension one side at a time.

SB64

Did you have the same results as the passenger side was? Not sure if there is a core support on a 75. Keep things loose while you are attempting to get the clip lined up. Also try to get the clip aligned by blocking up the extensions or core support just to see what it takes to actually line things up. Then you can work backwards to see what you need to do to make it work. When I did my 69 clip I had 2x4 shimmed under the support to make it work. Then I pulled the 2x4's out and went with 3/4 boards. Took a look and all looked good. Then I went to a stack of 3 washers etc. I finally got things locked in. Patience is golden.
Good luck!
RVZIO

Taijutsu

My 74 needs a lot of FG work. I have thought about the cost of replacing vs repairing. I like the Daytona front clip George is using, and the #150 reduction in weight.
I would like to run some small flares as well. Once again I wonder about the replacement panels that already have flares on them.
I have seen forum members spend many hours trying to get an aftermarket part to fit.
I hope this works out for you.

R

4rensic22

I moved the radiator over toward the driver's side and this seemed to help tremendously. I have "about" the same door gap on both sides. We now have the classic wide gap at the top of the doors. If raising the radiator support doesn't close the gaps I am probably going to replace the body mounts.

I put yellow masking tape along the peak in the nose and it seems to line up with the peak on the hood now.

We also have to adjust the height of the front clip to the hood.

I am more confident that we will get this front clip installed now. Hopefully we will be able to align the front end afterwards.

Will post photos later today.