radiator seal ?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
radiator seal ?
Quick question for all you c3 guru's, I bought my wife a 79 the other day and it ran great (minus the trailing arms..) until we got on the freeway and I got the common overheating as I go faster (approaching the red marker) so after using the search feature I discovered that there where suppose to be seals around the radiator so I ordered some and now the big question is do I need to remove the radiator to install them? I'm going to flush the radiator so I was hoping that I wouldn't have to pull it. Can someone confirm if I need to pull it. I will also be putting in a new thermostat and lower hose as mine can be collapsed with 2 fingers I'm assuming that's bad as well. Thanks for all your help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
yes, the radiator needs to come out. I don't have those seals and mine runs right at the thermostat setting, but I have a DeWitts' with e-fans. I had the same problem as you do with the original radiator though. It wasn't the seals in my case, it was the missing air dam in front, without that you won't get enough airflow at freeway speeds to keep it cool. Is yours on there?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 16
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yes, the radiator needs to come out. I don't have those seals and mine runs right at the thermostat setting, but I have a DeWitts' with e-fans. I had the same problem as you do with the original radiator though. It wasn't the seals in my case, it was the missing air dam in front, without that you won't get enough airflow at freeway speeds to keep it cool. Is yours on there?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,007
Likes: 1,115
From: North tonawanda NY
Poop!! lol. Yes the air dam is there but it has a split (small) in the middle and I have all intentions on replacing that too. After the 2000.00 trailing arm replacement my wallets a little light so I'm trying to fix the stock stuff before I jump on a dewitts radiator but I have a feeling that I'll be putting one in soon...
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 29, 2015 at 07:50 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,223
Likes: 666
From: Northeast
If you have this extension then the split belongs there. If you don't have an extension check with Willcox as he mentioned wanting to produce them. This is the only part that dropped my temps on the highway:
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 316
Likes: 39
From: Machesney Park IL
While I was in the area replacing my front end parts, I read about the seals, and noticed I had none. Went to hardware store and bought one of those pipit insulators that looked like a pool noodle that's hollow and split. Put it between rad and support, then bolted rad on to seal gap.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 16
From: Los Angeles California
While I was in the area replacing my front end parts, I read about the seals, and noticed I had none. Went to hardware store and bought one of those pipit insulators that looked like a pool noodle that's hollow and split. Put it between rad and support, then bolted rad on to seal gap.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
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I looked at these, they have them in stock & most likely going to order one.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
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If your on a budget you dont need a dewitts if you just want functionality... I replaced my original rad with an aluminum 3 row champion rad for $200 and I didnt install the seals the temp hold fine for which ever thermostat I use.. (It took three thermostats before finding one that actually worked correctly btw so make sure thats not your issue.) and I have a mild cammed 355 with side pipes and an auto trans so it gets toasty under the hood...
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,007
Likes: 1,115
From: North tonawanda NY
While I was in the area replacing my front end parts, I read about the seals, and noticed I had none. Went to hardware store and bought one of those pipit insulators that looked like a pool noodle that's hollow and split. Put it between rad and support, then bolted rad on to seal gap.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 29, 2015 at 10:28 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
The front spoiler is important, as are the radiator seals. But, if the metal spring inside the lower (suction) radiator hose has turned to rust, it can't do the job that was intended and the hose may be collapsing as the rpm's go up (and closing down the supply of cool water). When cool, squeeze the lower radiator hose. If you can squeeze it down, there is no spring left inside.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
The lower radiator hose is shot, and I am going to have the original radiator dipped and cleaned. I'm wondering if I should just replace the water pump while I'm at it? It's not leaking but with 70,000 on the clock I'm thinking it might have some corrosion in it but I hate to change something that isn't broke!!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
On a 79 have someone help you slide the radiator up and out. Then you can remove the shroud out past the a-arms. The shroud will not clear the a-arms with the radiator installed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 497
From: NJ
The front spoiler is important, as are the radiator seals. But, if the metal spring inside the lower (suction) radiator hose has turned to rust, it can't do the job that was intended and the hose may be collapsing as the rpm's go up (and closing down the supply of cool water). When cool, squeeze the lower radiator hose. If you can squeeze it down, there is no spring left inside.
Thats exactly what happening. Only part of the problem though, do the seals and the spoiler. Flush the Rad. too and you should be good to go!
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
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From: BC
The front spoiler is important, as are the radiator seals. But, if the metal spring inside the lower (suction) radiator hose has turned to rust, it can't do the job that was intended and the hose may be collapsing as the rpm's go up (and closing down the supply of cool water). When cool, squeeze the lower radiator hose. If you can squeeze it down, there is no spring left inside.
This is a problem that is overlooked and is probably a factor as you say it gets hotter the faster you go. If the spring inside the lower hose is collapsed from rust allowing the hose to flatten out with engine rpm those are the symptoms you will get. I doubt you will get overheating at highway speeds due to the lack of a few rad seals....Good luck!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2015
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I think the easiest way and the smartest way to is to eliminate the easy stuff first. This weekend I'm going to 1. Flush the radiator
2. Put new upper & lower hoses on. 3. Put a new thermostat (should I go with the O.E. Temp? I believe it was a 190. It's a stock motor) put the top radiator seals on. Test drive it and see if it gets hot, if it does then I'm pulling everything and going back with a new radiator and high flow pump..this is my wife's toy so I'm trying to get it up to par so she can run around town without the fear of overheating. By the way the lower house is shot!!!
2. Put new upper & lower hoses on. 3. Put a new thermostat (should I go with the O.E. Temp? I believe it was a 190. It's a stock motor) put the top radiator seals on. Test drive it and see if it gets hot, if it does then I'm pulling everything and going back with a new radiator and high flow pump..this is my wife's toy so I'm trying to get it up to par so she can run around town without the fear of overheating. By the way the lower house is shot!!!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
If your on a budget you dont need a dewitts if you just want functionality... I replaced my original rad with an aluminum 3 row champion rad for $200 and I didnt install the seals the temp hold fine for which ever thermostat I use.. (It took three thermostats before finding one that actually worked correctly btw so make sure thats not your issue.) and I have a mild cammed 355 with side pipes and an auto trans so it gets toasty under the hood...