jgcable

Could removing the control arms on my 77 be this easy? Jack up the car by the lower control arms. Put jackstands under the frame on each side. Lower the jacks until the control arms are free hanging. Loosen the lower ball joint nut a few turns. Break out the pickle fork and separate the ball joints from the lower control arms until the space between the ball joint nut and the control arm is gone. Jack up the control arms again and remove the lower bolt completely. Slowly lower the jack until the tension is off of the coil spring and the lower control arm is hanging from the shock. Remove lower and then remove uppers. Do I need to remove the shocks before I do the lower or can I leave them connected as a safety factor? I have never done upper and lower control arms before.

wombvette

Remove the stabilizer link and the shock first. Problem begins with reassembly. You will need a spring compressor.

Easy Mike

My advice is not to attempt the chore without a spring compressor.

jb78L-82

It actually is that easy especially with aftermarket springs that are 1 inch shorter than stock like I have BUT I would use a spring compressor, chain, or very strong nylon cord wrapped around the coil to something stationery on the car like the frame just in case the spring comes out under pressure. I did this procedure when I installed the aftermarket springs with a chain...Lowered the control arm, installed the spring, used a jack under the lower control arm to exert pressure, and reattached the lower ball joint...easy with the chain wrapped around the spring during the process...just need to get the car high enough to allow the control arm to pivot enough to install the spring..no issues, but be cautious.

r77vette

A Spring Compressor will be needed to reassemble. I just replaced the a-arm bushing a couple of months ago on my 77 Vette. As mentioned before, the stabilizer links and shocks will need to be removed first before you remove the upper and lower a-arms. Hope this helps.

Alan 71

Hi,
Your system will work.
BUT, if the jack happens to move or slip enough for the spring to come out of it's pocket while it's still mostly compressed the fender, your head, and the garage roof won't stop it.
All the methods people offer here are really just insurance.
Regards,
Alan

Even with a spring compressor I still secure the spring to the frame before beginning to take it off or put it back on.
In my mind the worse case is if the spring actually shoots DOWN and then comes back up off the floor at you.

ddawson

I had a spring jump out and it is a huge amount of force.

I always use a chain now and wrap it around the lower control arm and lock it.

Aggitated Monkey

Double agree! I would not remove them with out the spring conpressor. C3 springs are long and highly conpressed.

jgcable

I will be using a spring compressor for sure! I am pretty sure I can rent one at AutoZone and if not... I will buy one from Harbor Freight. Thanks for the heads up.

my 76 ray

I would do one thing differently. I would remove the ball joint stud nuts completely then put them back on. This will prevent them from seizing as you try to remove them after you free the stud from the spindle. If they seize the stud will just spin and you'll have to get a nut cracker to get the nut off.

Rally68

Just my 2c but I would reconsider buying the spring compressor from Harbor Freight. I went that route when I did my front end a few years back and they ended up in the garbage. I'm not a HF basher--I have tons of stuff from there--but those things didn't work for the C3 install and they bent more than enough to scare me.

I'm clearly in the minority here, but I don't believe you need a spring compressor to install the coils on a small block. Seat the spring in the upper pocket and use a bar clamp to hold the spring in the lower pocket while you raise the lower arm with a trolley jack:





Like I said, it's just my 2c; I have done a grand total of 2 sets of Corvette springs this way...Should I have had a chain or ratchet strap on there too, in case the clamp broke? YES!

Good luck with them

Chris

Shark Racer

The base model springs (300lb) are very, very tall and will not install without the spring compressor. Gymkhana springs are much thicker wire but overall shorter and will install with it, at least in my experience.

HOWEVER - like others have said, springs are SERIOUS business and can hurt you pretty bad. A friend of mine put a 1" deep gouge in his concrete driveway from a spring busting loose. If you have any doubt whatsoever - rent the internal compressor and/or use a chain.

Haggisbash

I didn't use a spring compressor, I substituted the shock for a long piece of threaded rod with beefy washers and nuts top and bottom, there is no way the spring can escape with this in place. The stock springs are very long, I replaced them with aftermarket ones, as mentioned above they are shorter and easier to fit.

waljr

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-is-stuck.html

jgcable

So I got one side off so far. It was simple. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2' length of 5/8" threaded rod and some large washers and nuts. In order.. I removed the wheel, the caliper, the rotor, the sway bar end link, the tie rod end and the shock. I replaced the shock with the threaded rod. I then loosened the upper and lower ball joint nuts and I separated the upper ball joint. I then loosened the nuts on the threaded rod and the lower control arm went down nice and slow until it was no longer under much tension. I then removed the threaded rod and with just few kicks the coil is out. I then reinstalled the threaded rod to hold the spindle up and I removed separated the lower ball joint and removed everything. I used a pickle fork to do all the separating. Really easy.

DUB

I hope you understand the amount of pressure that when you are going back in with this 'threaded rod' method is going to be under. Releasing the tensions is one thing....compressing ti is entirely another issue all together.

Keep this in mind....the amount of threads in your nut....meaning the total surface area of the threaded nut. The more threads you have...the more surface area,,,and that also depends on the grade of the fine threaded bolt you got.

This is what I have and use. Snap-on coil spring compressor wa92. ll I use is the threaded rod and washers and the part with the two hooks.

Just be careful going back in with it. If it slips when under tension and comes out....it can turn REALLY BAD....REALLY FAST!

DUB

C3Hawk

I am glad things worked out for you, but I totally agree with DUB on this.
Sometimes you need to spend money to get quality tools, and I believe a spring compressor is one of those times.