Control arms this easy????
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
Control arms this easy????
Could removing the control arms on my 77 be this easy? Jack up the car by the lower control arms. Put jackstands under the frame on each side. Lower the jacks until the control arms are free hanging. Loosen the lower ball joint nut a few turns. Break out the pickle fork and separate the ball joints from the lower control arms until the space between the ball joint nut and the control arm is gone. Jack up the control arms again and remove the lower bolt completely. Slowly lower the jack until the tension is off of the coil spring and the lower control arm is hanging from the shock. Remove lower and then remove uppers. Do I need to remove the shocks before I do the lower or can I leave them connected as a safety factor? I have never done upper and lower control arms before.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,451
Likes: 974
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
It actually is that easy especially with aftermarket springs that are 1 inch shorter than stock like I have BUT I would use a spring compressor, chain, or very strong nylon cord wrapped around the coil to something stationery on the car like the frame just in case the spring comes out under pressure. I did this procedure when I installed the aftermarket springs with a chain...Lowered the control arm, installed the spring, used a jack under the lower control arm to exert pressure, and reattached the lower ball joint...easy with the chain wrapped around the spring during the process...just need to get the car high enough to allow the control arm to pivot enough to install the spring..no issues, but be cautious.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 4, 2015 at 10:14 AM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville Tennessee
Spring compressor
A Spring Compressor will be needed to reassemble. I just replaced the a-arm bushing a couple of months ago on my 77 Vette. As mentioned before, the stabilizer links and shocks will need to be removed first before you remove the upper and lower a-arms. Hope this helps. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,267
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
Your system will work.
BUT, if the jack happens to move or slip enough for the spring to come out of it's pocket while it's still mostly compressed the fender, your head, and the garage roof won't stop it.
All the methods people offer here are really just insurance.
Regards,
Alan
Even with a spring compressor I still secure the spring to the frame before beginning to take it off or put it back on.
In my mind the worse case is if the spring actually shoots DOWN and then comes back up off the floor at you.
Your system will work.
BUT, if the jack happens to move or slip enough for the spring to come out of it's pocket while it's still mostly compressed the fender, your head, and the garage roof won't stop it.
All the methods people offer here are really just insurance.
Regards,
Alan
Even with a spring compressor I still secure the spring to the frame before beginning to take it off or put it back on.
In my mind the worse case is if the spring actually shoots DOWN and then comes back up off the floor at you.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 51
From: Wichita Kansas
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
I would do one thing differently. I would remove the ball joint stud nuts completely then put them back on. This will prevent them from seizing as you try to remove them after you free the stud from the spindle. If they seize the stud will just spin and you'll have to get a nut cracker to get the nut off.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
I'm clearly in the minority here, but I don't believe you need a spring compressor to install the coils on a small block. Seat the spring in the upper pocket and use a bar clamp to hold the spring in the lower pocket while you raise the lower arm with a trolley jack:
Like I said, it's just my 2c; I have done a grand total of 2 sets of Corvette springs this way...Should I have had a chain or ratchet strap on there too, in case the clamp broke? YES!
Good luck with them
Chris
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
The base model springs (300lb) are very, very tall and will not install without the spring compressor. Gymkhana springs are much thicker wire but overall shorter and will install with it, at least in my experience.
HOWEVER - like others have said, springs are SERIOUS business and can hurt you pretty bad. A friend of mine put a 1" deep gouge in his concrete driveway from a spring busting loose. If you have any doubt whatsoever - rent the internal compressor and/or use a chain.
HOWEVER - like others have said, springs are SERIOUS business and can hurt you pretty bad. A friend of mine put a 1" deep gouge in his concrete driveway from a spring busting loose. If you have any doubt whatsoever - rent the internal compressor and/or use a chain.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 273
From: Dunedin NZ.
I didn't use a spring compressor, I substituted the shock for a long piece of threaded rod with beefy washers and nuts top and bottom, there is no way the spring can escape with this in place. The stock springs are very long, I replaced them with aftermarket ones, as mentioned above they are shorter and easier to fit.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: Gippsland, VIC Australia
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
So I got one side off so far. It was simple. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2' length of 5/8" threaded rod and some large washers and nuts. In order.. I removed the wheel, the caliper, the rotor, the sway bar end link, the tie rod end and the shock. I replaced the shock with the threaded rod. I then loosened the upper and lower ball joint nuts and I separated the upper ball joint. I then loosened the nuts on the threaded rod and the lower control arm went down nice and slow until it was no longer under much tension. I then removed the threaded rod and with just few kicks the coil is out. I then reinstalled the threaded rod to hold the spindle up and I removed separated the lower ball joint and removed everything. I used a pickle fork to do all the separating. Really easy.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I hope you understand the amount of pressure that when you are going back in with this 'threaded rod' method is going to be under. Releasing the tensions is one thing....compressing ti is entirely another issue all together.
Keep this in mind....the amount of threads in your nut....meaning the total surface area of the threaded nut. The more threads you have...the more surface area,,,and that also depends on the grade of the fine threaded bolt you got.
This is what I have and use. Snap-on coil spring compressor wa92. ll I use is the threaded rod and washers and the part with the two hooks.
Just be careful going back in with it. If it slips when under tension and comes out....it can turn REALLY BAD....REALLY FAST!
DUB
Keep this in mind....the amount of threads in your nut....meaning the total surface area of the threaded nut. The more threads you have...the more surface area,,,and that also depends on the grade of the fine threaded bolt you got.
This is what I have and use. Snap-on coil spring compressor wa92. ll I use is the threaded rod and washers and the part with the two hooks.
Just be careful going back in with it. If it slips when under tension and comes out....it can turn REALLY BAD....REALLY FAST!
DUB
