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Tore the control arms off of my 77. Grinded the rivets off and removed both ball joints. No problem. Control arm bushings??? HOLY CRAP ARE THESE A PAIN TO REMOVE!!! I spent at least 3 hours removing the lower control arm bushings on ONE CONTROL ARM!!! I burned them. I drilled them. I completely removed the rubber. I used hammers, punches, a die grinder, tons of PB blaster and at least 3 hours of hard labor to get these suckers out. NO WAY am I doing this again with the passenger side. There HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY!!!!!!
Control arm busings are pressed on. You can remove the old bushings and sleeves without a press, but you'll need a press when it comes time to install the new ones.
I did mine last year. The air chisel made short work of a 30 year old northeast rusted bushing. You have to catch the edge and fold it in and then work it out
I did mine last year. The air chisel made short work of a 30 year old northeast rusted bushing. You have to catch the edge and fold it in and then work it out
Second that. I brought mine to tracdogg and he used an air chisel and had them all out in no time. I then had them blasted and powder coated. He pressed in the new bushings.
Personally I'm not a fan of the air-chisel on the vette arms, the lowers in particular seem easily bent around the bushing area. Anything else I've worked on I've used the air-chisel / BFH method.
Control arm busings are pressed on. You can remove the old bushings and sleeves without a press, but you'll need a press when it comes time to install the new ones.
From all the threads I read on this forum it seems that most people suggest not using a press (I don't own one anyway). They state its too easy to bend the control arm. The popular method when installing MOOG rubber bushings is to put them in the freezer and when I install them use a large socket and drive them in with a hammer.
So that's pretty much exactly what I did with the exception of using an air chisel. I used a punch and a hammer. It was a real pain in the neck.
Must be really rusted on there. Usually once that slot is cut into the outer sleeve it's fairly easy to push out, same with opening the inner sleeve along the split.
I'll add another vote for freezing the bushings for re-install.
M
I went through it the winter before last. I finally used a hole saw to cut through the rubber, cut a slot in the outer shell, then an air chisel to pop them right out. Freeze the new bushings and leave the arms in the sun for a while, then it's easy to tap them in.
Simple job really, did not take but two hours or less to do both sides on mine and that is upper and lower....first thing is to careful measure the distance between the bends over the bushing insert, and cut a piece of angle iron to just that measure and insert that in place as you air chisel that in/out the new one is easy to press in with a decent bench vice or a hammer if you have to....but of course that angle iron section has to be in position, and a heavy block of wood, or some help from a 1/2 inch of steel laid up top of the new bushing/socket and a good hammer....did mine over 15 years ago....easy....
Personally I'm not a fan of the air-chisel on the vette arms, the lowers in particular seem easily bent around the bushing area. Anything else I've worked on I've used the air-chisel / BFH method.
Ditto here too, did it the Mooser way, but used some 1/8" drill bits to drill the rubber out, agree, this is a PITA job, but with all C3 jobs (for me anyway, LOL's), persistence, patience and more persistence will get it done. The second arm will likely go better after you get the hang of it with the first one. BTW, I like to soak the bushing with acetone/trans fluid red as that is one of the best penetrants around and cheap too, mix up 50/50 and chip brush it on, repeat for several days. how corroded in your bushing are will have a lot to do with how much fun you have doing this. Some were easy for me and others, well, just not. For the reinstall, to avoid bending, fabricate an inner brace out of a fence metal pipe post, split it lengthwise and then fit to support, I used a pipe clamp, the kind woodworkers use, 3/4", and sockets to press the new bushing in. tighten the clamp, tap with a hammer, and then repeat, the tapping with a hammer seems to jar the new bushing in as needed. hope this helps.
Thanks again Mooser for your post too!
Last edited by 20mercury; Nov 5, 2015 at 10:50 AM.