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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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I have a 78 S/A with pwr windows but no pwr locks. I have my doors apart to rebuild pwr the window assy etc so there is nothing inside the door. Lots of room. SO I start thinking ( I know, that is a mistake) that this would be the best time to add pwr locks. I don't really need the pwr locks, but I would like a keyless entry system so I can just hit a button and it would all be locked up. I've searched a lot and know what this will all entail, but I'd like some experienced feedback from you who have done this. Should I buy a set of actuators ( and the rods) and install them, then get a kit with the remote, or just buy one complete set up with the actuators,relays etc.. The only issue that I have seen seems to be the rods not being correct and they jam up. Any thoughts would be appreciated. thanks.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:19 PM
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Here's one of the better ways to connect the linkage so it doesn't bind up-


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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:27 PM
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Here's how I hooked it up on my '71.

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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 09:59 PM
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Notice a common theme going here.




Only issue is making sure the lever arm is the right length to ensure you have enough force from the actuator and yet still have enough travel to lock/unlock.
I wasn't sure and put two different hole locations in just in case.
M

Last edited by Mooser; Mar 20, 2018 at 11:04 PM. Reason: photobucket
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Notice a common theme going here.

M
Another common theme- Is going w/ branded door lock motor vs the Chinese knock-offs. Harada- DEI are a couple of good ones.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 10:56 AM
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Your only problem is that there is no 'live' 12vdc wiring going into your doors at this time...and you need constant 12vdc for the power door locks. The power windows only have "switched" power coming into the doors (switched at the UP/DOWN buttons on the console).

If you can run fused power wires into your doors, you can add power locks fairly easily.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Your only problem is that there is no 'live' 12vdc wiring going into your doors at this time...and you need constant 12vdc for the power door locks. The power windows only have "switched" power coming into the doors (switched at the UP/DOWN buttons on the console).

If you can run fused power wires into your doors, you can add power locks fairly easily.
The aftermarket door locks just want to see a pulse- and wired correctly- both wires will be resting at ground as they go into the door.

AND you would NOT want to put the relays in the doors-

If you slam the door - you can accidentally trip the relay and lock your doors...

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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 03:52 PM
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Mine are more or less wired the same, took longer to figure out which way the remote needed to be hooked up to match the solenoids.

I disconnected the PW wires and pulled them as far back into the car are possible, then taped the new wires to them in the kick panel area, then pulled them back into the doors which fed the new wired through the rubber boot between the jamb and the door.

There was a 15A fuse on the remote and depending on who you talk to as to if there needs to be a relay for the door locks or not, I put them in anyway (belt and suspenders). Verified the amp draw for both doors and put a 10A inline fuse for the relays

Everything is located up under the dash, passenger side
M
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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OK, thanks for the important part about the relays NOT inside the doors. As for the 12V hot, I can get that done fine right now with the door empty. On my 78 all the lock mechanism is INSIDE the door which is why I am thinking of this project now, while the glass & track is out. It seems that most of you had good quality actuators, but since alll my adjusting has to be done inside, I think I might be better off w/ OEM actuators and linkage. Or maybe good aftermarket actuators and oem linkage. Once that is done then I can get the remote kit and just wire it into what I have. More discussion is welcome. thanks.
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