i have a # match 73 L-82 400 trans 355 gears. is it worth it to use my block and build a 383 out of it? what brand parts would u use eagle or scat? i want it streetable with ac allpower. can i get 400 450 hp what kind of tq?thanks

 

You can use your block but that is about it. The rest of it will not be used. The heads will not support that kind of power. There are many kits out there.

 

Bag the block and put it in a corner, for 200 bucks you can get a useable core and the #numbers matching block will increase the value if you sell it in the future.

Any way you look at it 450HP is going to cost you 5 grand by the time you are finished. Scat ain't the best but far better than Eagle. I wouldn't by anything from them again.

 

Unless you're planning on really beating on it just use an ordinary nodular iron 400" crank and stock rods (and a 400" damper and flex plate). You'll need some better heads of course.

Look at my thread "Ryans Strokers" and check out the 108 engine combos to see what parts achieved what horsepower and torque.

 

I used Scat crank and con rods in my 350 build. Crank was good out of the box. Con rod wrist pin holes had to be opened up .002", but otherwise good. I have read that Eagle quality control is iffy.

I would tend to agree with motorhead 5k at least. If you want to go retro roller cam maybe a bit more. Kind of depends on the quality of parts you choose. Primarily the heads and cam. AFR 195's would get you to 450hp and 500 tq. You could use your current block and crank and probably pistons too for a 355 build and get to 400 hp.

 

The shop that built my engine used Eagle. He thinks they are quality parts once you verify and correct things.

Seemed odd to me to spend more time rebalancing and machining new parts but he said as a dealer he gets them cheaper so he can stay competitive on pricing.

 

As others have said, for the minimal extra cost, just bag your old engine and buy a good block and go from there. I paid the local machine shop an even $1000 for the completely machined 4 bolt block (honed to my pistons, line honed, decked, etc) including a good core. There are some really good packages using Scat parts with unbeatable prices, but, they are not supporting vendors.

Doing all but the machine work myself, and smart shopping and research, I have less than $4000 into this using brand name parts and everything new!

 

If I had a numbers matching L-82, I think I would consider storing it. I just had this conversation the other day at the machine shop about blocks and how they are starting to get hard to find in rebuild-able condition. For me, he did mention a few swap meets that would have decent blocks, but they are going to be other states. This means an investment of time.
A Gen I block will have the two piece seal and require the retro cam if your going roller, which is what I did. A later model block will have a one piece and be already setup for a roller cam. I forgot what year to look for, but hopefully somebody came supply that.
As far as heads, 180's will give you lots of torque on the low end, 195 will add to your performance higher in the rpm range. You need to figure out what you want and form a plan that includes the Cam/intake. Just keep asking questions, there are some very knowledgeable people here on the forum.

 

You can always go buy a blueprint(or manufacturer of choice)383 short/long block and adjust the parts list to your needs.Myself I would buy an assembled short block and pick my own heads/cam/intake and leave the numbers engine alone.

 

I vote craigslist...
http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/5160498639.html

even if you were going to build it yourself you will find the best deals there from less computer savy people who just want the stuff left over from their builds or upgrades gone... I have seen 383 shortblocks go for as little as $1,200 from machine shops on craigslistwhen they get stiffed by non paying customers...

I bought my machined block and most of the parts for my 350-400hp? build on craiglist and the engine cost me less than 1,500 to build. I used a new scat 9000 crank which is supposed to be 25-30% stronger than oem cast cranks and support over 500hp...
If I did it again I would have bought the scat 383 rotating assemblies for under a grand and went that way.

 

There are a couple companies like Scat and Callies that make a 383" stroker kit and with the stroker rod's you have to clearence the block less, you might even be able to use a regular size base circle camshaft. As far as the block, as others had said bag the original l82 block, save it so that if you ever decide to sell your vette you have the original block as a bonus. buy either a little more modern block or a new block that is already set up for roller lifters and camshaft, Depending on your budget the dart shp is an affordable option for a new block and comes with a lot of nice options like being set up for a roller cam, main priority oiling or splayed main caps, plus you can go to 400" for more cubes and power. The newer block's come set up for a 1 piece main seal which is nice, but I believe you can't use a neutral balance flexplate and need to have it balanced with the rotating assembly which detered me from going with the one piece main seal. I'd go forged with the rotating assembly, theoretically cast would hold up but pauldana went with the 9000 series scat crank and at the power level that he built at had the crank break. You asked about eagle and while I've no personal experience, I researched them when I built my 400" and a google search turns up all sorts of bad press about them. To reach 400/450 horse it wouldn't take a ton of money depending on which direction you go, but I suggest not skimping on the heads or camshaft, Dart and afr both have heads that will meet and surpass your goals and pick a camshaft that works well with the heads. If you can post a budget it would help in suggesting a combintion.

 

i have a chance to get a gm steel crank pink rods trw 030 flat top forged pistons all balanced with rod and main bearings rings full rotating assm. for 600.i could use my block bore it and buy cam heads making a 355. what kind of power tq \hp to make the engine better then what i have now. its stock, would it be worth the money to build the 355 or 383?

 

How much do you have to spend?Will you be doing the work or someone else?

Build the biggest most dependable short block you can.You can always add heads later.

You can make 400hp blindfolded with a decent set of heads and a matching cam.

 

I thought you were a mech of some kind???? 400's have bigger main journal size and shorter rods than a 350.

A 350 block requires a 350 journal size crank and rods and pistons to accommodate the 3,750 stroke.

Externally balanced motors are just poor bubbas idea of days long past

 

I started in the direction you are in and my original engine was the L48. I wanted a 383 to produced 450-500 hp.

I looked a Skip White for the internals and specked out a nice build. I ordered all the parts then I looked localy on the machining of my L48. I found the machining was going to be $800 and I was going to still have a 2 bolt main block and scrapping out a perfectly good engine.

I called Skip White back and asked what a ready block was going to cost. I was quoated $789 for a ready to go GM 4 bolt block.

Considering the cost of all the parts plus the engine block; for just a few 100 $$ more I got a 383 Stroker, assembled with a 2 year warrenty, that Dynoed at 496.4hp with 468 tq.

Total was just under $5,000 and I traded my L48 for a Rugar New Vaquero, 45 Long Colt.

Scatt crank, Wiesco pistons, NKB 200cc/64cc heads, Howards full roller cam, girdles, cloyes chain, millings pump, quick fuel 750 cfm, polished air gap intake, polished valve covers, polished water pump, pan, flex plate, distribuator, wires, and blancer.

 

 

Originally Posted by gkull View Post
I thought you were a mech of some kind???? 400's have bigger main journal size and shorter rods than a 350.

A 350 block requires a 350 journal size crank and rods and pistons to accommodate the 3,750 stroke.

Externally balanced motors are just poor bubbas idea of days long past

 

I'll go with the "bag it" crowd. Put your L82 and the turbo 400 in storage and start with a 383, better even a roller cam block, get a good hydraulic roller, a good set of modern heads and a beefed up overdrive trans.