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Unfixable ignition failure

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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 10:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by retrodude
Thanks mysixtynine . It is a Holley red pump and a Holley 850 double pumper. I have 5-6 lbs of pressure right at the carb. I'll check the 12v going to the distributor. It just has 2 wires from the MSD box. The HEI I put in for a test part wasn't hooked to the MSD.
If you only had the HEI in it and it was cutting out when it got hot, I would say replace the ignition module in the distributor. But, same problem with 2 distributors? Maybe you have two bad ones, its possible, but chances are - no. It has been stated already, you need to eliminate the ignition as the problem. I have a in-line spark tester that I use (Tool Aid 23970 In-Line Spark Checker Kit for Recessed Plug) it gives a flashing bulb as it sparks. I never tried it, but you might be able to hook that up temporary, drive it till it quits, pop the hood and check for spark as you crank it.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 10:52 PM
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Have you replaced a sock before? The pump is in the rear next to the tank. I haven't checked the bowl levels...I'll check that too. Thanks!
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 10:53 PM
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Thanks blackc3
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by retrodude
Those are all good ideas, I looked at the sock, should it be totally round? Is it necessary if I have a filter down stream? I'm thinking I can cut it off for now to see if it fixes it.
The sock is in the tank. Just replace it since you've spent the time getting there.
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 08:22 AM
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The time to check the sock is immediately after the engine dies.
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 01:23 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I never thought about the sock, but if I have fuel squirting out of the carburetor when it dies, doesn't seem like it's a fuel problem. Even when I try to restart right away, I have open the secondaries since it's easy to give it a shot of gas then.
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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You could run ignition power directly from the battery through a toggle switch to the MSD box. Bring the coil wires inside to a voltmeter. Divide and conquer the electrical possibilities.

However the fact that 5-10 minutes fixes the problem suggests that it is somehow heat related, which could be fuel as others think. You didn't say where the MSD box is located.
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 12:18 AM
  #28  
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Thanks Ignatz that's some good info. I may run a separate switch. MSD box is on the fender where the a/c box would be. It quit when the MSD box was out with an HEI only too.
Still acts like something heating up....just can't figure out what. I've replaced every associated part except the 12v source and fuel sock.
I'm rewiring or getting it rewired this winter...46 yr old wiring makes me very nervous.
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Old Sep 9, 2015 | 04:05 PM
  #29  
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I hope you find a quick and easy aka CHEAP! solution!

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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by retrodude
Thanks Ignatz that's some good info. I may run a separate switch. MSD box is on the fender where the a/c box would be. It quit when the MSD box was out with an HEI only too.
Still acts like something heating up....just can't figure out what. I've replaced every associated part except the 12v source and fuel sock.
I'm rewiring or getting it rewired this winter...46 yr old wiring makes me very nervous.
As others have said it sounds like an ignition problem, especially with you still having fuel in the accelerator pump, I'd never thought of the timing gun to check spark but an awesome idea. You can also loosen a fitting on the fuel line to verify that you have fuel pressure. I don't know if the coil is separate, but it sounds like a Crack in the body of something (coil?) That opens up with heat or the ignition module but not familiar with msd systems. But first thing is first, determine if it's fuel or spark.
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #31  
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Hi bluedawg, I just replaced the coil, the distributor and the MSD box. I'm going to test out the fuel sock theory this weekend.
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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Sounds like you are going to have a lot of stuff for sale pretty soon.

For what it's worth I'm reminded of a problem I had some years back with a solid piece of something in my fuel line, like maybe a fragment of gasket. It was in the line between the mechanical pump and fuel filter. Every now and then it would push up and block my fuel filter. Car would stall and after a while it would sink back down and I could get the car started and drive away. I think I figured it out when I R&R'd the pump.
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 12:49 AM
  #33  
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have you pulled the bowls on the carb? i had a small piece of trash floating in mine that would get sucked up to one of the jets and cause the car to starve
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 06:58 PM
  #34  
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When you changed distributors did you also change the cap and rotor?
or did you reuse those? Check all the terminal ends on your electrical connections at the coil and dist.
Id do as Ignatz suggested and temp wire in a ign switch with dedicated wiring.
Also check alternator output and battery voltage when it shuts down.
Maybe your charging circuit is shorting killing all electrical
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 08:58 PM
  #35  
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Pull the wire harness plug apart at the firewall and check for corrosion. I've seen a couple over the years that had weird things going on- and the firewall plug was the culprit.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #36  
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AZ & Tim... Those are some great suggestions.
I just put a new quality alternator on and a new horn relay.
I'm going to check the firewall blocking also, that's another good suggestion.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #37  
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Since I have to drain the fuel tank.... If I use the electric fuel pump to fill up my gas cans wouldnt that cause the fuel sock to collapse as I watched?
I'm going to replace the sock anyway but it would help me diagnose the issue...
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by retrodude
Since I have to drain the fuel tank.... If I use the electric fuel pump to fill up my gas cans wouldnt that cause the fuel sock to collapse as I watched?
I'm going to replace the sock anyway but it would help me diagnose the issue...
Don't do anything big deal. When you get it out and grab it, and it disintegrates, you'll know.
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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 12:04 PM
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If it turning off like when the key is turned wouldn't that be electric? Don't fuel related issues sputter before stalling?
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:15 PM
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finally fixed !! After replacing the whole electric system I found out that the Holley Red Electric fuel pump was burning up inside itself. The pump only has about 50 to 60 hours total run time. Thanks again for all the great replies!!





Last edited by retrodude; Jan 10, 2016 at 11:16 PM.
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