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Trouble Code 42 On My 81

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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:42 AM
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Default Trouble Code 42 On My 81

For about a year now I was getting an intermittent "check engine' light on my 81, so I have been driving with my system diagnostics meter hooked up while I was driving trying to get the code number. It never stayed on long enough to show the error code. Finally Code 42 started going on-off continuously, thought I wasn't going to make it home the car ran so rough. The shop service manual says it's "EST By-Pass Voltage Low. After doing all the wiring tests the manual says to replace the HEI Module (thermal module). The existing module didn't have any thermal grease under it. I re-installed a new module with dielectric grease, the car runs great now with no check-engine light problems. I find it hard to believe the absence of the grease caused so much trouble.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 11:23 AM
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It could be that allowing it to get to hot (no thermal grease) was causing it to misbehave. It is possible that getting it cooler has it working properly. I would still guess something is marginal and will probably return. A new hei module might be relatively inexpensive insurance
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Correct, the new one was $45, not too bad and easy to change. It would only act up when the car was at normal operating temperature.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 06:11 PM
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I chased a code 42 for several years. Several ignition module changeouts. Re-wired entire distributor - you can buy a complete harness, both ends. Nothing worked. Finally bought a new ecm and problem went away. New ecm costs only about what two ignition modules cost. Have two spare modules if needed. Oh, also replaced tps twice. Have spares of that also. Only problem is I put my hypertech chip in backwards - really stupid thing to do - and it fried it. Still had the original and running that now.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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Well my problems are continuing now, trouble code 42 cleared up after replacing the HEI module. Did some test driving and got it up to normal operating temperature and here we go again. Now getting trouble code 23 (MC Solenoid Circuit), and it stayed locked in. After following all the volt checks per the service manual it states to replace the MC solenoid and ECM. Wonder will go wrong next?
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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I dont know which service manual u are gettin your code descriptions from but my GM code book says code 23 is "IAT Sensor low" meaning intake air temp sensor reading is low. Did u modify your intake at all? How is the sensor and wiring looking?

BTW my code book says code 42 is "EST Circuit grounded" meaning electronic spark timing which consists of the ign module, computer (ECM) and the connecting wiring. It reads to since u have replaced the ign module either the wiring or the ECM have a problem. Here is a good link for that: http://batauto.com/articles/gmmsundrstd42.html

Hope this helps.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
I dont know which service manual u are gettin your code descriptions from but my GM code book says code 23 is "IAT Sensor low" meaning intake air temp sensor reading is low. Did u modify your intake at all? How is the sensor and wiring looking?

BTW my code book says code 42 is "EST Circuit grounded" meaning electronic spark timing which consists of the ign module, computer (ECM) and the connecting wiring. It reads to since u have replaced the ign module either the wiring or the ECM have a problem. Here is a good link for that: http://batauto.com/articles/gmmsundrstd42.html

Hope this helps.
On an 81, code 23 is M/C solenoid circuit.

Code 42 is EST By-Pass voltage low.

I have the 81 ECM factory service manual supplement book.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by golfradict
Well my problems are continuing now, trouble code 42 cleared up after replacing the HEI module. Did some test driving and got it up to normal operating temperature and here we go again. Now getting trouble code 23 (MC Solenoid Circuit), and it stayed locked in. After following all the volt checks per the service manual it states to replace the MC solenoid and ECM. Wonder will go wrong next?
Check the solenoid resistance. If over 10 ohms, it's good.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Check the solenoid resistance. If over 10 ohms, it's good.
How is this properly done to my MC solenoid attached to my E4ME carburetor? thanks in advance
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by golfradict
How is this properly done to my MC solenoid attached to my E4ME carburetor? thanks in advance
Unplug the connector on the solenoid, and use a VOM to read the solenoid resistance across the 2 terminals.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Unplug the connector on the solenoid, and use a VOM to read the solenoid resistance across the 2 terminals.
Great thanks, will do first in the AM
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 01:34 AM
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You may also have the dreaded 'loose and/or corroded connector' syndrome on that old ECM. After years of use, the contacts in the plugs AND the power and grounding connections can become 'iffy', because of the sensitive electrical needs of the ECM, etc.

Pull all the plugs and clean all contacts (both ends) with alcohol and Q-tips. Then put a coating of contact grease to keep them from corroding in the future. Also, remove any direct grounding connections, clean all surfaces/connectors/washers involved and reconnect them to frame, etc.

You need to eliminate those issues first, if you want to be sure that what your reader shows is valid.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Sep 15, 2015 at 01:36 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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I agree with 7T1vette. I was chasing that code 42 for most of the summer. It all started after I had performed a tune up on the car( plug,cap,rotor,and wires). After changing modules and scratching my head, I went ahead and clean all of the connectors between the dizzy and the ecm. So far I haven't had any issues with code 42 popping up.

The big headache with these later C3 is the computer, it's real basic. When it pops a code 42 you have to scrutinize every component of the system between A-Z. Unlike modern cars which tell you what sensor is in trouble, our cars throw kinda general codes.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:40 AM
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Thanks a ton guys for the info, I'm fixing to dig into this much more than I thought I needed to. Will start cleaning the contacts and grounds today (glad I'm retired) I have dielectric grease also.
I did check resistance across my MC solenoid as stated by Big2Bird, the meter read well over 10. As of now the only trouble code I have is 23 (problem in the M/C Solenoid Circuit)

Last edited by golfradict; Sep 15, 2015 at 08:45 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 04:25 PM
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A rather disappointing follow up here if interested. Today I cleaned all the contacts I could get my hands on, afterward started the car and as soon as it got up to normal temp and went into closed loop, all the trouble codes reappeared, at least 7 different codes. Got a new ECM on order
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 07:10 PM
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I hope that fixes your problems. When multiple codes come up, your odds are pretty fair that the ECM (and associated wiring/connectors) is at fault.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Thanks 7T1vette, this isn't my first time to have ECM problems, I had one go out a couple of years back. I will give it one more chance. When the next fails I'm putting in a vacuum advance distributor and Holley carb. I like my stock engine compartment look, just don't like the computer problems, should have bought me a good 1980. I'm running true duals with no cats, the air pump isn't functional either. No problems here with smog regulations
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by golfradict
Thanks 7T1vette, this isn't my first time to have ECM problems, I had one go out a couple of years back. I will give it one more chance. When the next fails I'm putting in a vacuum advance distributor and Holley carb. I like my stock engine compartment look, just don't like the computer problems, should have bought me a good 1980. I'm running true duals with no cats, the air pump isn't functional either. No problems here with smog regulations
I would take a close look at all the related wiring for chafing/shorts/bare spots/etc.
The ECM has been in my car 34 years, and knock on wood, I have yet to have a trouble code.(Except for when I unplug something).
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I would take a close look at all the related wiring for chafing/shorts/bare spots/etc.
The ECM has been in my car 34 years, and knock on wood, I have yet to have a trouble code.(Except for when I unplug something).
Wish I could say the same, my car was restored after a bad front end wreck, still only has 25K original miles. I will surely continue to dig for the problem. Thanks Big2Bird
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