Anyone know how to do this ? What is involved ? Thanks.

 

1, Why would you want to do that
2. You need these parts http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1982.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1982.html
3. Believe you have to move the position of the outer tie rods where they connect to the steering knuckles

 

you replace your PS stuff with a manual relay rod & pitman arm, I have what you need, if you or anyone else is interested send a PM

 

On the two 68s with manual steering that I've worked on, one BBC & one SBC both used the inner tie rod hole. Outer holes had the factory filler. I'm with MelWff 'why would you want to do that?' T

 

Get your factory box custom blue printed/rebuilt (not a rebuilt box from someone else) or go Borgeson but why would you remove PS on a C3...better feel? You can get really nice steering with recirculating ball steering boxes....

 

I hope it works for you, but I hated the manual steering. I added PS (Borgeson) and it's a great pleasure to drive now.

 

Thanks for the responses. My car is a 73 BB, and it's going to be more of a drag strip toy than an actual daily driver (although I will drive it to work on nice days, as my commute is only 7 miles each way), so I'm looking to reduce weight and power draw on the engine and lighten the car

 

You MUST remove the control valve. You can't just pull the pump and leave the rest there. There is some spring-loaded 'slack' in the P/S system that high pressure oil tightens up, when operational. If you just pull the pump (and the high pressure oil), there will be too much free play in the system. It needs to get the manual steering links to work properly.

 

I converted from PS to MS, and wouldn't go back.
I felt the original design was very agricultural, heavy and cumbersome.

For the driving I do on open country roads, the change to manual is a huge improvement.
Really positive feel and feedback and not overly twitchy as I found the factory PS to be.

If I did a lot of parking and slow manoeuvring then I would consider PS, and would go the Borgsen route.

When I swapped I replaced the relay rod c/w knuckle joint and pitman arm. I tried leaving the tie rods on the inner hole of the steering arms, but felt the steering effort was too much so I now have them in the outer holes and everything is rosy!

I don’t drag race at all, but would imagine the manual set up and using the outer holes on the steering arms will give you the control and feel you would want. Not too quick, not too heavy?

You can get kit that converts the PS shuttle valve to a fixed link, but I preferred to use correct parts.

Compared with the cost and involvement of Borgsen or Steeroids conversions, I can totally understand why anyone would consider this a viable route to take.

Good luck with conversion...


PS. I also stripped, re-built and set-up my steering box at the same time, and installed a new rag-joint. Now the slightest steering wheel input gives movement at the road wheels.

 

I am cheap and really consider this but my spindles do not have the dual holes only ps holes so the costs would go up for me....

 

nah, just run in the short holes.....

 

If the boss areas are there, you can drill through and use a taper-reamer for the ball joint to fit into.

(I also removed the aftermarket 13.5" diameter steering wheel and installed a 15"diameter wheel....it made parking in tight spaces almost as easy as with power steering)

 

I ask the same - why do it? I have a 73 with 235/60/15's and it steers heavy with PS. I know without it would be like driving a dump truck.

 

What is the difference in the MS parts you offer and PS parts?

 

different relay rod & different pitman arm

 

Of the three C3s I've owned, only one came with PS, and I converted that one to manual. Why? 1) Parts eliminated save weight and don't often fail. ...as the factory PS has been know to do (BTDT). 2) Genuine feedback is no longer filtered out. 3) Eliminates at least one potential leak.


The difference between the PS/quick ratio and manual is ~15%, which IMHO can certainly be felt at parking lot speeds. That said, having run both ratios with manual, I've found the quick setting preferable once you get rolling. FWIW to those contemplating what to do about not having steering arms with the additional holes, the necessary tapered bit can run $80-100, plus the risk of slipping up.


Anyway, tho one can simply cut the belt to get home in a pinch, the proper PS/manual conversion always involves changing out the relay/drag link and pitman to the correct bits. My $.02



TSW

 

right, I was asking how they differ

 

Done the ditch the ps thing wasnt even a tad quicker couldnt feel any difference excpet it was more of a pain to drive and slower to correct if the car got out of control. Some things are just worth leaving on

 

I dug out my old PS assembly to try and answer this.

It looks like the dimensions are all identical; from centre distances between the steering rods, distance from the pitman arm connection to the left steering rod (which is the same as the distance from the right SR to the idler arm connection).
Also the centre to centre length of the pitman arms is the same and the offset distance between the two ends is the same too.

So the differences between the relay rods are...
No hydraulic ram connector hole on the MS relay rod
A fixed pitman arm connector on the MS instead of a hydraulic valve

And on the pitman arms...
The "wobble" that the arm takes between the two ends looks different. The PS arm looks like a larger kick round whatever the arm is trying to clear. I suspect that it will be the mounting bracket for the hydraulic ram.

Here's some photos....


PS Pitman Arm "wobble"


PS Relay Rod with hydraulic ram connection


PS, PoS?


Manky old PS valve & hoses. Mr & Mrs Leaky



MS Connection knuckle and pitman arm


Entire MS relay rod with no ram connection point


MS Pitman arm looking straight up


If you've any questions while they're still out together, please ask...

 

To those of you that responded with answers to the question asked, THANK YOU. To those of you questioning/commenting on why/what I do with MY car, go post in someone else's thread. My cousin owns a 73 that he is the second owner of, it was ordered without PS, I've driven his car, and it feels great at speed. MY car isn't a daily driver, will NEVER be parallel parked or driven to get groceries or to the mall, so why all the negative Nancy stuff ? It's a weekend toy or a back road work commuter (all of 7 miles each way) and will see the drag strip quite a bit. As my screen name implies, I own a C6 in Machine Sliver that has plenty of power options and a GMC truck that is my real commuting vehicle with ALL the options...I can live without PS in my 73...