Edelbrock Air Gap Issues
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kansas
Edelbrock Air Gap Issues
Happy Friday! Hope yall are well.
I am still having issues with my Edelbrock Air Gap in which the 4 center bolts are not sealing and I have oil pooling between sides of the intake and the heads. It is more prominent on the passenger side than the driver's side.
I have tried RTV Black, The Right Stuff, Permatex #2 as well as pipe sealant with NO luck. The only one that seems to slow it down is The Right Stuff.
You can even see where the oil is going down the side of the intake, down along the heads dripping onto the outside starter bolt, then down along the trans flywheel dust shield.
At this point I wonder if the intake is jacked up. Has anyone seen this same issue with the Edelbrock intakes???? I am about to pull the trigger on the AFR TITAN.
Thoughts?
Hope yall have a good weekend.
Bo
I am still having issues with my Edelbrock Air Gap in which the 4 center bolts are not sealing and I have oil pooling between sides of the intake and the heads. It is more prominent on the passenger side than the driver's side.
I have tried RTV Black, The Right Stuff, Permatex #2 as well as pipe sealant with NO luck. The only one that seems to slow it down is The Right Stuff.
You can even see where the oil is going down the side of the intake, down along the heads dripping onto the outside starter bolt, then down along the trans flywheel dust shield.
At this point I wonder if the intake is jacked up. Has anyone seen this same issue with the Edelbrock intakes???? I am about to pull the trigger on the AFR TITAN.
Thoughts?
Hope yall have a good weekend.
Bo
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,364
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From: Western NY
A couple of basics, before you start spending more money on different parts...
Are you tightening the manifold bolts in a criss-cross pattern, from the center out? What torque value are you applying to the bolts? IIRC, the spec is around 30-35 ft/lbs. have you checked the faces of the manifold with a straight edge, to ensure they're flat? What gaskets are you using? Are you using RTV or some sort of gasket to seal the "China walls"?
Are you tightening the manifold bolts in a criss-cross pattern, from the center out? What torque value are you applying to the bolts? IIRC, the spec is around 30-35 ft/lbs. have you checked the faces of the manifold with a straight edge, to ensure they're flat? What gaskets are you using? Are you using RTV or some sort of gasket to seal the "China walls"?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kansas
35lbs torqued, starting from the center and working outwards, manifold was machined so I know they are straight. Gaskets are FELPRO and I believe they are 1/8in thick...I cannot rememeber what part number they were. Black High Temp RTV to seal the china walls. No leaks at the china wall. Only on the sides where the centerbolts are located.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kansas
This might help diagnose a little better. I do not see oil coming from the bolt holes. On the Air Gap the centerbolts are on the inside of the manifold, there is no oil leaking from there. But when the car is running if you look at where the intake, gasket and heads all meet you can see small air bubbles where the oil is pooling. Does that make sense?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kansas
I am really considering going with the AFR TITAN. That composite base and intake have a little more flex than a cast intake. I might be able to get that to conform better to the heads. Plus it dosent use intake gaskets from what I am tracking.
I dont want to open a can of worms but the heads are a pro comp.
I dont want to open a can of worms but the heads are a pro comp.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
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From: Kansas
I do not think so. It was machined because the china wall would not seal. The RTV bead after torqued was paper thin and would not seal correctly. It was then machined to get me a 1/8in gap as well as using the 1/8in intake gaskets to get me a little more height.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
This might help diagnose a little better. I do not see oil coming from the bolt holes. On the Air Gap the centerbolts are on the inside of the manifold, there is no oil leaking from there. But when the car is running if you look at where the intake, gasket and heads all meet you can see small air bubbles where the oil is pooling. Does that make sense?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
I am suspecting you created your problem by machining the front and rear then using super-thick 1/8" gaskets on the sides. Check the sides with a good straight edge and I'll bet you'll find you have twisted it out-of-shape by torquing it to 35 ft/lbs when an aluminum manifold only needs about 15 ft/lbs. If the 1/8" gaskets are softer than the standard FelPro gaskets it crushed on the ends and left the center high. Check it.....................
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kansas
We had it off twice and double checked everything to include tolerances. I am positive this intake is not warped. This is got to be something easy that I am simply overlooking.
I still bet that AFR TITAN would solve my issue. Plus its a good way to pick up a few extra HP.
I still bet that AFR TITAN would solve my issue. Plus its a good way to pick up a few extra HP.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 343
From: Allenton Wisconsin
The Titan is an impressive manifold, but an expensive experiment to stop an oil leak.
They make washers that have rubber seals on the inside to seal bolts from leaking. New Holland used them for their chain cases and the lower bolts were below the oil level. They need them replaced every time they are dissembled. I use them on my valve cover studs that always leaked. T
They make washers that have rubber seals on the inside to seal bolts from leaking. New Holland used them for their chain cases and the lower bolts were below the oil level. They need them replaced every time they are dissembled. I use them on my valve cover studs that always leaked. T
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,364
Likes: 1,592
From: Western NY
I am suspecting you created your problem by machining the front and rear then using super-thick 1/8" gaskets on the sides. Check the sides with a good straight edge and I'll bet you'll find you have twisted it out-of-shape by torquing it to 35 ft/lbs when an aluminum manifold only needs about 15 ft/lbs. If the 1/8" gaskets are softer than the standard FelPro gaskets it crushed on the ends and left the center high. Check it.....................
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
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From: New York
This might help diagnose a little better. I do not see oil coming from the bolt holes. On the Air Gap the centerbolts are on the inside of the manifold, there is no oil leaking from there. But when the car is running if you look at where the intake, gasket and heads all meet you can see small air bubbles where the oil is pooling. Does that make sense?
Gasket damage ?
If the manifold is true then the head is not ?
Also say what you will about the PCV , but if you can push oil and are getting air bubbles your sure putting a lot of blow by into that crank case .
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
My bet is the machining of the intake put it out of whack with the heads.
It is not easy to machine a intake to fit the heads properly, did they have the engine when they did the machining ? Were the heads ever machined ?
It is not easy to machine a intake to fit the heads properly, did they have the engine when they did the machining ? Were the heads ever machined ?