Window regulator
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 111
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Window regulator
On my 1978 the drivers side power window will open almost all the way with the power switch, the last 4 inches or so has to be done manually ( pushing down on the window) and then has to be raised the first 4 inches manually (pulling up on window) so I stripped the door and removed the motor and found the regulator was stripped in that area, not completely smooth but the teeth there are definitely worn. So it looks as I have 3 choices on Wilcox website 1 replace the whole assembly 2 replace the gear or 3 get a reapair gear kit. The repair gear kit and the replacement gear is the same price. Is the gear repair kit easier to install than a new gear? I am guessing either way the whole unit needs to come out. Does anyone have a good write up on this? Thanx
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I know how to do this....but I have nothing written at this time that I can post.
There are OTHER variables that come into play as I also commented on in a similar window regulator post.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-wich-one.html
Knowing that your regulator gear is worn badly...I would be concerned in the integrity of the GEAR on your power window motor also.....and then.....I would be looking at the integrity of the rollers on the window regulator itself.
One gear repair requires welding..the other can be bolted on...
DUB
There are OTHER variables that come into play as I also commented on in a similar window regulator post.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-wich-one.html
Knowing that your regulator gear is worn badly...I would be concerned in the integrity of the GEAR on your power window motor also.....and then.....I would be looking at the integrity of the rollers on the window regulator itself.
One gear repair requires welding..the other can be bolted on...
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Oct 30, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
First thing, tear the whold damn mess outta there, soak the rails/rollers in gasoline to get RID of all that dried up crap white lube they used at the factory.....
second off tear down the motor/gear drive....the gear drive is the dried up grease also....clean it out but good, and put in new thin lube grease....thin wheel bearing grease, nothing thick....
on the rails, make sure they totally sanitary, and spray on some oil, that is all they need.....
Did mine some 20 years ago, and so not an issue......go up/down just fine.....and fast too....those nylon rollers in the tracks need a slight bit of lite lube on the bearings, but just a dab of oil on the track/running surface.....keep your fingers outta there when running UP!!!!!
second off tear down the motor/gear drive....the gear drive is the dried up grease also....clean it out but good, and put in new thin lube grease....thin wheel bearing grease, nothing thick....
on the rails, make sure they totally sanitary, and spray on some oil, that is all they need.....
Did mine some 20 years ago, and so not an issue......go up/down just fine.....and fast too....those nylon rollers in the tracks need a slight bit of lite lube on the bearings, but just a dab of oil on the track/running surface.....keep your fingers outta there when running UP!!!!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 111
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Thank you for your responses. I guess I will tear it all out. It looks like some of it is pop riveted to the door do I need a rivet gun to reinstall or can I bolt it back in?
Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 613
Likes: 11
From: EVANSVILLE Wisconsin
I bolted mine in and it works just fine, a little tight getting in there, but certainly easier should you need to maintain again in the future. Just make sure you use nylock nuts and / or some locktite to keep things from loosening up over time.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I weld nuts to the regulator if it is still 'worthy' of being put in the car. But if you do not have access to a welder or the ability to braze the nuts on...then the 'nut and bolt method' will be required.
DUB
DUB
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 111
From: If your not the lead dog the view never changes Boise, Id
Great idea! Just got it out, that was a pain in the keester. Man I hope it goes in easier than it came out.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The repair gears work and are the easiest way to get the regulator back up and running. The entire gear would be a pain for you since they are welded in place and the only way I'd go regulator is if all the rollers were bad and possibly something was bent... In most cases we just repair the original regulator.
We have the giant rivet gun and rivets, but for a at home repair I'd bolt them in with locking nuts.
Willcox
We have the giant rivet gun and rivets, but for a at home repair I'd bolt them in with locking nuts.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Oct 31, 2015 at 08:46 PM.