C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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1978 L82 with 84K miles. Not sure if ignition has ever been touched before or not. Over the winter I am attempting to tune it and set the timing. After that maybe work on the carb.

For now I just pulled the cap off and here are pictures of the points and the rotor. I am probably going to replace these parts but my question is: Does the condition of these points indicate any other problem I need to be addressing?



Plugs are gapped at .44 and have only about 1,000 miles on them. The coil tests out at 12,500 ohms between the battery terminal and the carbon pickup.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 03:14 PM
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The inside of the cap and the rotor appear normal in every way for used parts.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 04:02 PM
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They look normal, and I would replace them. I always replace with quality parts that have brass contacts. If you buy the really low cost parts, many times the contacts will be aluminium - not nearly as good.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 74modified
They look normal, and I would replace them. I always replace with quality parts that have brass contacts. If you buy the really low cost parts, many times the contacts will be aluminium - not nearly as good.
I agree 100%. Do you have a recommendation for a tune up kit?

Thanks
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by biackbenz
I agree 100%. Do you have a recommendation for a tune up kit?

Thanks
I like to use Delco, but most of the vendors have higher quality versions. For regular use, you can just go to the local chain, and check out the higher priced units. The aluminum (silver colored) contacts are easy to spot. I also like Rockauto.com as they usually have a selection.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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If it is a street car with no major modification to the engine...and going to be street driven and you are not worried about making it a rocket ship. I also use Delco parts. Getting the 'upgrade' distributor car and rotor does not hurt. But honestly...I would have to have your car on a dyno and see if there is actually an improvement before I would stick my neck out and 'say' that you actually get a gain by changing these parts. Possibly someone has and can reply on that.

I am also worried about the spark plug wires and there correctly routed. And I check the Kv (Kilovolt) readings of the plug wires to see how they are. IF I am getting a rough idle or something does not seem right.

ALSO...back when I had a functional gas analyzer...I would check the exhaust and see right away if the car needed a tune up due to very high emission readings. In many cases....all I needed to do was to take eh car out on a 'spirited' drive and come back and the emission where much better due to the owner was not driving it with 'spirit' on occasion...and basically 'parading' it around all the time.

DUB
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
If it is a street car with no major modification to the engine...and going to be street driven and you are not worried about making it a rocket ship. I also use Delco parts. Getting the 'upgrade' distributor car and rotor does not hurt. But honestly...I would have to have your car on a dyno and see if there is actually an improvement before I would stick my neck out and 'say' that you actually get a gain by changing these parts. Possibly someone has and can reply on that.

I am also worried about the spark plug wires and there correctly routed. And I check the Kv (Kilovolt) readings of the plug wires to see how they are. IF I am getting a rough idle or something does not seem right.

ALSO...back when I had a functional gas analyzer...I would check the exhaust and see right away if the car needed a tune up due to very high emission readings. In many cases....all I needed to do was to take eh car out on a 'spirited' drive and come back and the emission where much better due to the owner was not driving it with 'spirit' on occasion...and basically 'parading' it around all the tie.

DUB
Hey DUB, I agree with you. My point about the aluminum parts is they corrode too quickly
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 09:14 PM
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12,500 ohms between the batt and carbon pickup makes no sense. I suggest u only take measurements where u have an expectation of the results. An ign coil has only a few ohms of resistance.

So what im saying is if u dont already have a factory service manual then purchase something like a Chiltons for less than $20 and read what it says for tune ups and use the diagnostics for any problems. This will avoid using your imagination and any superstitions created.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
12,500 ohms between the batt and carbon pickup makes no sense. I suggest u only take measurements where u have an expectation of the results. An ign coil has only a few ohms of resistance.

So what im saying is if u dont already have a factory service manual then purchase something like a Chiltons for less than $20 and read what it says for tune ups and use the diagnostics for any problems. This will avoid using your imagination and any superstitions created.
One ofthe papers I have been reading suggests testing the coil between the battery terminal and the post at the center of the distributor. It should read between 6, 000 and 30, 000 ohms. To be honest, I dont know what an ohm realy is or what this test is telling me other than my coil falls within the range. I did the reading and reported it here in case someone smarfer than me would find the reading of value.

Im going to replace everything with a kit for street use. I have the manual as well as several papers. My real question regards whether or not the condition of the points and rotor are normal. Appears they are.

I appreciate your comments.
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Old Nov 21, 2015 | 11:57 PM
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Ohm's law = the Eagle flies over the Indian and the Rock.
E = I*R
Resistance (Ohms) = Voltage / Current

Everyone in Silicon Valley knows this.
Just sayin...

Last edited by Jeff_Keryk; Nov 22, 2015 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2015 | 11:46 AM
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B Benz, the HEI has been one of the best and most reliable products ever designed by GM. Don't overthink this, if the car runs OK, just put a new quality cap and rotor, maybe wires and move on.

Check to vacuum advance, the rubber diaphragm can dry out and leak
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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I found when HEI plugs are gapped to .045" they'll quit firing at about .053" to.055". The Standard Ignition Parts catalog recommends gapping HEI plugs to the old .035" because the average HEI isn't a killer ignition system as many believe it is.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
because the average HEI isn't a killer ignition system as many believe it is.
But it is a 'killer ignition'.... because it has proven itself to be basically problem free with years of use....and tens of thousands of them out on the road. If you can not agree that the GM HEI is a very good distributor for street use with rarely no problems.....then I do not know what you consider being better....and still have the ease and availability of parts all throughout the country at basically any parts store.

DUB
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