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Any suggestion for new headlight actuators that actually work and last for a reasonable length of time?
I keep having problems with the passenger side actuator in my '79. GM flip-flopped the position at some point so I believe that I'm talking about the driver side actuator on 68-77 models.
I bought the actuators as a pair. The driver side was and remains perfect. The first and second passenger side actuators arrived with a leak so severe to make them unusable. The third one (the one installed now) had a very, very slow leak but after about eight months and very few operations it is now leaking significantly worse. It leaks at the same speed from both connections so I believe that points to a bad main diaphragm as opposed to the shaft seal.
Hi SM,
Bob Demmel from Texas rebuilds and restores actuators.
Perhaps you might want to contact him to see just what he offers and then may want to send him one of your originals to rebuild.
That way you'd be sure of what you have.
Regards,
Alan
No way! As a hydronic heating engineer (think building/home heat using water as the heat transfer medium) with a love of proportional control I can't abandon a vacuum system! While the headlight doors aren't proportionally operated I know from experience that vacuum systems are extremely long-lived, easier to maintain and far simpler than electrical systems that do the same thing.
The vacuum source is the typical thing that fails in hydronic systems but an internal combustion engine is a truly perfect source of vacuum. The control system in hydronic systems finds brazed, screwed, sweated, etc. tubing/piping so leaks in the "piping" and connections are typically the last thing you expect as a new problem.
No way! As a hydronic heating engineer (think building/home heat using water as the heat transfer medium) with a love of proportional control I can't abandon a vacuum system! While the headlight doors aren't proportionally operated I know from experience that vacuum systems are extremely long-lived, easier to maintain and far simpler than electrical systems that do the same thing.
.
I restored a C2 with ELECTRIC MOTORS on the lights. Far easier, more reliable, but more expensive parts. GM abandoned the vac system after C3's, for good reasons!! AND they don't pop up when not supposed to
The problem with C3s are the RUBBER parts that rot, deteriorate, inside the actuators and relay valves. Let alone the switches, hoses check valves etc!!! They are NOT long lived! Then we get cheap imported repop parts....
I restored a C2 with ELECTRIC MOTORS on the lights. Far easier, more reliable, but more expensive parts. GM abandoned the vac system after C3's, for good reasons!! AND they don't pop up when not supposed to
The problem with C3s are the RUBBER parts that rot, deteriorate, inside the actuators and relay valves. Let alone the switches, hoses check valves etc!!! They are NOT long lived! Then we get cheap imported repop parts....
If they're so good why were they discontinued in Corvettes after 2004 despite styling that certainly allows them? Precise, environmentally contained electrical limit switches have always and will always be extremely expensive.
Cost to the consumer aside from what I've read the C2 electric headlight operators were discontinued very rapidly after they proved a high cost to the company.
If they're so good why were they discontinued in Corvettes after 2004 despite styling that certainly allows them? Precise, environmentally contained electrical limit switches have always and will always be extremely expensive.
Cost to the consumer aside from what I've read the C2 electric headlight operators were discontinued very rapidly after they proved a high cost to the company.
I spent like $02 on the used motors I selected $10 relay $10 in round stock and threaded my self and a couple hours of time to install. Oh and did you notced GM replaced the vacuum system with electric before going to fixed mounted?
If i could find a fixed mounted system I liked I would drop the flip up elec. or vac along with that heavy *** vac. canister.
If they're so good why were they discontinued in Corvettes after 2004 despite styling that certainly allows them? Precise, environmentally contained electrical limit switches have always and will always be extremely expensive.
Cost to the consumer aside from what I've read the C2 electric headlight operators were discontinued very rapidly after they proved a high cost to the company.
The C2 used external limit switches...early 60's technology...
The C4 used a current limiting control box-plastic gears-really not any better.
The Miata/Probe motors used on many conversions (Cougars/GTO/Camaro etc) are really reliable- used on over a million cars- and still work when you pull them out of junkyard. My brother has 230,000 miles on his Miata and still has the original headlight motors...
Here's why-
All encased in the motor- an ingenious contact system - after it travels 180º- the motor stops- hit the other trigger wire and it moves 180º and stops. Simple, reliable AND inexpensive!!!
I can now flash my headlights-
Can also do other duties-
Wiper door-
And reverse lights!!!
Trigger wheel-
All the electronics required-a relay and a couple diodes-
If they're so good why were they discontinued in Corvettes after 2004 despite styling that certainly allows them? Precise, environmentally contained electrical limit switches have always and will always be extremely expensive.
Cost to the consumer aside from what I've read the C2 electric headlight operators were discontinued very rapidly after they proved a high cost to the company.
There are reasons other than styling, such as European pedestrian crash test standards that came about around then which basically caused all cars to go away from pop-up headlights.
The C2 used external limit switches...early 60's technology...
The C4 used a current limiting control box-plastic gears-really not any better.
The Miata/Probe motors used on many conversions (Cougars/GTO/Camaro etc) are really reliable- used on over a million cars- and still work when you pull them out of junkyard. My brother has 230,000 miles on his Miata and still has the original headlight motors...
Here's why-
All encased in the motor- an ingenious contact system - after it travels 180º- the motor stops- hit the other trigger wire and it moves 180º and stops. Simple, reliable AND inexpensive!!!
I can now flash my headlights-
Can also do other duties-
Wiper door-
And reverse lights!!!
Trigger wheel-
All the electronics required-a relay and a couple diodes-
And the harness I make up has a couple diodes between high/low beams w/ a Bosch relay- so you don't have to run any wires the the dimmer or headlight switch- or change out to a C4 headlight switch.
And the harness I make up has a couple diodes between high/low beams w/ a Bosch relay- so you don't have to run any wires the the dimmer or headlight switch- or change out to a C4 headlight switch.
ok I havent added relays to the headlights, not sure if I ever will. What do you think about just removing the high beam wire from the low beam lights? I may also replace the stock style lights with the h1/h4 setup like Sevent2 did.
Just a friendly note, I have a company saved in my favorites that makes electric head lights for C3's for a fair price for bothsides. Let me know, if I can supply you the contact. Take Care, Bart
If they're so good why were they discontinued in Corvettes after 2004 despite styling that certainly allows them? Precise, environmentally contained electrical limit switches have always and will always be extremely expensive.
Cost to the consumer aside from what I've read the C2 electric headlight operators were discontinued very rapidly after they proved a high cost to the company.
I compare the vacuum system to points ignition: it works, is original, tends to need more maintenance. If you like that - great, it is your car.
Me, I swapped over to the Firebird/Fiero electrics and it was soo much cheaper and easier. That said, even if you replace the plastic gears with brass, it is not the best solution. The control box senses current rise in the motors - not limit switches - and can be problematic. I have several extra motors and control boxes, but will be changing to the Probe motors.
I restored a C2 with ELECTRIC MOTORS on the lights. Far easier, more reliable, but more expensive parts. GM abandoned the vac system after C3's, for good reasons!! AND they don't pop up when not supposed to
The problem with C3s are the RUBBER parts that rot, deteriorate, inside the actuators and relay valves. Let alone the switches, hoses check valves etc!!! They are NOT long lived! Then we get cheap imported repop parts....
you forgot rust. have seen lots of them with rust pinholes in the actuators...even if they don't look rusty...and of course shoddy assembly makes them leak out of the box...
The C2 used external limit switches...early 60's technology...
The C4 used a current limiting control box-plastic gears-really not any better.
The Miata/Probe motors used on many conversions (Cougars/GTO/Camaro etc) are really reliable- used on over a million cars- and still work when you pull them out of junkyard. My brother has 230,000 miles on his Miata and still has the original headlight motors...
Here's why-
All encased in the motor- an ingenious contact system - after it travels 180º- the motor stops- hit the other trigger wire and it moves 180º and stops. Simple, reliable AND inexpensive!!!
I can now flash my headlights-
Can also do other duties-
Wiper door-
And reverse lights!!!
Trigger wheel-
All the electronics required-a relay and a couple diodes-