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Through your thought process, just toss a $400 converter into the mix.
Decide what you want the engine to be...how it should sound at idle, what power you want, how temperamental you'd like it to be, what type of gas you'd like to run...then choose your cam.
Once you choose your cam, choose a converter that matches the cam. Where it makes power and how much power it makes, I mean.
I'd like to stay with my original cam. What heads and headers would make 400hp possible?
This quote was the exact philosophy I used when selected the Howards Roller cam for my 78 L-82 355 with the AFR 180 65 CC heads and 10.2:1 compression...the cam had to idle as good as my stock L-82 cam, but have good bottom end power, very strong mid range torque with very good high RPM HP, all under 6,000 RPM with the usable power in the 2,500-5,000 RPM range where the engine spends most of its time. The Howards Roller cam with .525/.525, duration 219/225, LSA110 (operating range 1,500-5,600 RPM) gives the L-82 355 these exact characteristics (the idle is better than the stock L-82 engine too)....I debated over 1 year before I went roller and Howards. I appreciate your experience. I could not be happier with my end results. My car is a 4 speed with 3.70 gears.
I know you are looking for a cam similar to the L79 with the same sound but see the comp cams duration is 229/236 which will bias the power to upper mid range/high RPM, correct? Also, wouldn't a tighter LSA of 110 instead of 112 concentrate power more in the mid range? I am no cam expert but just on my research and experience with my 355 I ask the question....looking for your thoughts on how you selected that particular cam...more for informational purposes than anything else
I'd like to stay with my original cam. What heads and headers would make 400hp possible?
I'm not a very knowledgeable person about this stuff, but 400 hp is no joke.
Someone else feel free to chime in here, but I'll politely offer that I don't believe you can get there with heads and headers.
The engine is a system. To crack 400 hp, you need to be thinking SERIOUSLY about compression ratio and a cam. 9:1 compression isn't getting you there. Stock valve lift isn't getting you there. A regular cast-iron intake isn't getting you there.
And I wouldn't be comfortable BEING there with stock cast rods. You'd need to start thinking about forged units.
That's just my opinion based on how much effort it took to build my engine.
Last edited by keithinspace; Dec 10, 2015 at 07:36 PM.
A set of Aluminum heads(used are out there.I got a set of Trick flow twisted wedge heads off ebay for a steal-may sell them).The smaller 64cc heads will up compression which will help power/torque everywhere.
1.6 roller rockers a nice upgrade but not necessary.
Used aluminum intake (edelbrock performer cheap all day long)
Use your quadrajet(be prepared to tune it some or pay someone to do it)
1 5/8 headers (coated a plus) and good 2.5 dual exhaust with mandrel bends.
Recurve your distributor.
You can even paint your intake and heads orange if you want to look stock(ish).
The devil is in the details(tuning makes a big difference).I would imagine headers and a dist recurve alone would wake it up.
Just because it's 300 to 350 horsepower doesn't make it a bad thing. These cars are plenty of fun with that kind of HP. Of course, more is always better, but we all know the old saying to that: "How fast do you want to go?" The response: "How much do you want to spend?".
Just because it's 300 to 350 horsepower doesn't make it a bad thing. These cars are plenty of fun with that kind of HP. Of course, more is always better, but we all know the old saying to that: "How fast do you want to go?" The response: "How much do you want to spend?".
I drove by your place today... you weren't there.... wow, that complex has sure filled up... you got an engine machine shop next door??
Last edited by pauldana; Dec 10, 2015 at 09:13 PM.
A set of Aluminum heads(used are out there.I got a set of Trick flow twisted wedge heads off ebay for a steal-may sell them).The smaller 64cc heads will up compression which will help power/torque everywhere.
1.6 roller rockers a nice upgrade but not necessary.
Used aluminum intake (edelbrock performer cheap all day long)
Use your quadrajet(be prepared to tune it some or pay someone to do it)
1 5/8 headers (coated a plus) and good 2.5 dual exhaust with mandrel bends.
Recurve your distributor.
You can even paint your intake and heads orange if you want to look stock(ish).
The devil is in the details(tuning makes a big difference).I would imagine headers and a dist recurve alone would wake it up.
Thanks for the information. I'm confident that 400hp is possible, Kacyc3's L82 post is proof, what I'm hoping to find out is the correct parts to get there. That may in the end be a staged approach though.
What parts should I start with? Is it possible to choose heads that will work with my current cam and then be able to effectively handle a wilder cam? Would I then need to change the intake manifold to make it perform eve better?
I don't mind replacing all these parts in the long run just want to make sure the parts work as a system. The timing of installing the parts will be another factor as I don't see having the time to do all of it at once.
How do I find these details? I could use the L-82 build sheet but that requires changing everything. Is there any interim build to get to something like that?
I am definitely learning a lot so far and finding it is much more difficult yet fascinating at the same time. Thanks for all the help so far!
Thanks for the information. I'm confident that 400hp is possible, Kacyc3's L82 post is proof, what I'm hoping to find out is the correct parts to get there. That may in the end be a staged approach though.
What parts should I start with? Is it possible to choose heads that will work with my current cam and then be able to effectively handle a wilder cam? Would I then need to change the intake manifold to make it perform eve better?
I don't mind replacing all these parts in the long run just want to make sure the parts work as a system. The timing of installing the parts will be another factor as I don't see having the time to do all of it at once.
How do I find these details? I could use the L-82 build sheet but that requires changing everything. Is there any interim build to get to something like that?
I am definitely learning a lot so far and finding it is much more difficult yet fascinating at the same time. Thanks for all the help so far!
I was trying to find the build list and hp made from him but can't find it. What isn't in that is the prices,
AFR heads $1500 ish
howards retro roller $600 ish
Intake $200 ?
Headers Guessing 700 -1000
2.5" true duals w/ hiflo muffler $500-2000
Will you current clutch hold that much power?
Misc. parts for carb adjustments ?
Weights, springs, dist adjustment ?
New air cleaner ?
It might be possible but, you're not going to get it with that cam without boost and doubt the bottom is built for boost.
I drove by your place today... you weren't there.... wow, that complex has sure filled up... you got an engine machine shop next door??
I'm only there after 5 now. We're not open all day any longer, as I had to get a new Shop Partner and he's only here on Weekends. It's now a 'Hobby Shop'. And yes, the complex filled up! The machine shop next door is 'ok', but if I really had to do some serious work, I'd be going to Adams for sure.
Stock look means different things to different people....putting headers on any vehicle does not mean in my opinion that the engine is not stock just that the stock engine has a more efficient exhaust,, the engine can still be stock. Heck, changing the rear OEM mufflers to say Magnaflow mufflers does not mean that the engine is not original. Using an aftermarket head painted Chevy blue, in my case, can mask easily the head change and retain the stock look to most people lurking at the engine. When I rebuilt my L-82 the intent was to keep it looking mostly stock even with the AFR aluminum heads which I did not paint (if the AFR's were painted, very few folks would know that they were not 882 heads) BUT the 355 does have the OEM HEI distributor, OEM numbers on the block, OEM aluminum GM intake, the OEM L-82 valve covers, OEM forged Crankshaft, OEM forged Rods, the OEM GM dual snorkel cold air assembly, the OEM GM blue timing cover, OEM blue L-82 oil baffled pan (short block builder wanted to use an aftermarket pan...no way) etc...to most people the engine looks like an OEM GM L-82 engine with some engine upgrades. It idles like an OEM L-82 even with the AFR heads and Roller cam...mission accomplished. Yes it took more effort and probably cost a few more dollars for the rebuild/upgrade BUT boy was it worth it! More than a few folks have commented on my OEM L-82 with 67,000 miles on it unless you look closely at the AFR aluminum heads...mission accomplished. There is a big difference between my engine and a 383 painted orange, with aftermarket intake/carb/air cleaner assembly, valve covers that say Chevrolet 383, chromed everything accessories with R&P steering rack etc....even better, the L-82 355 easily makes more power than most 383's...AND it's the OEM L-82 350 block as delivered from the factory....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 11, 2015 at 07:51 AM.
A set of Aluminum heads(used are out there.I got a set of Trick flow twisted wedge heads off ebay for a steal-may sell them).The smaller 64cc heads will up compression which will help power/torque everywhere.
1.6 roller rockers a nice upgrade but not necessary.
Used aluminum intake (edelbrock performer cheap all day long)
Use your quadrajet(be prepared to tune it some or pay someone to do it)
1 5/8 headers (coated a plus) and good 2.5 dual exhaust with mandrel bends.
Recurve your distributor.
You can even paint your intake and heads orange if you want to look stock(ish).
The devil is in the details(tuning makes a big difference).I would imagine headers and a dist recurve alone would wake it up.
^^^ I agree 100% with all of this.
Use the 1.6 rockers on the new heads, (be sure to setup correctly !), you already have a cam for torque and these will raise the powerband slightly, but also increase breathing with more valve lift.
You'd then have a top-end worthy of an upgraded shortblock if you so want to later.
If more performance is wanted soon after the above upgrades - a higher stall convertor would bring the power in sooner and feel like another 50 Ft Lbs.
All these builds have more aggressive cams. as noted above, better heads, more compression, and etc... AND THEY BARLY MADE 400HP!!, and some made sub 400hp
OP's cam 212/218 .4+
Last edited by pauldana; Dec 11, 2015 at 11:17 AM.
Brand:Chevrolet Performance
Manufacturer's Part Number: 19210009
Part Type:Crate Engines
Product Line:Chevrolet Performance Turn Key 350 C.I.D. 330 HP Engine Assemblies
Summit Racing Part Number:NAL-19210009
Engine Assembly Style: Long block
Crate Engine Cylinder Head Material: Cast iron
Assembled: Yes
Engine Balance: Internal/External
Intake Manifold Included: Yes
Cylinder Heads Included: Yes
Carburetor Included: Yes
Throttle Body Included: No
Distributor Included: Yes
Oil Pan Included: Yes
Valve Covers Included: Yes
Timing Cover Included: Yes
Water Pump Included: Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included: Yes
Flexplate Included: Yes
Flywheel Included: No
Air Cleaner Included: Yes
Spark Plugs Included: Yes
Spark Plug Wires Included: Yes
Computer Included: No
Wiring Harness Included: No
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: This engine is not designed, nor intended to be used in any marine applications. Designed for pre-1976 street vehicles or any off-road vehicle. Engines installed in vehicles registered and normally operated outside of the United States carry no warranty. Fuel line from pump to carburetor is required.
In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.
CalculatorCFM Calculator
Chevrolet Performance brings us their entry-level performance turn key crate engines in the form of these 350 cubic inch HO engine assemblies with approximately 9.1:1 compression, 330 hp at 5,000 rpm, and 380 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3,800 rpm. These 4-bolt main engines have a recommended max rpm of 5,500. Dressed to impress with a chrome front timing cover and valve covers, these engines will look great between the fenders of your favorite street rod, musclecar, or grass roots racer. These 350 HO engines are not intended for marine use and should only be used in 1979 and earlier pre-emissions street vehicles, or any year of off-road vehicles. Parts used in these engine assemblies are 4-bolt main 1-piece rear main seal blocks, nodular cast iron crankshafts, powdered metal connecting rods, and dished cast aluminum pistons. Installed camshafts are hydraulic flat tappets with a .435 in. intake lift and a .460 in. exhaust lift, with 212 degree open duration intake and 222 degree open duration exhaust lobes, at .050 in. ground with a 112.5 lobe centerline. Standard Morse link timing chains are installed. Cylinder heads are Vortec cast iron style with 64cc chambers and 170cc intake runners with 1.94 in. intake valves and 1.50 in. exhaust valves. Stamped steel self-aligning rocker arms are used for reliability.
Also included in the turn key packages are:
* 600 cfm electric choke Holley carburetor
* Chrome air cleaner assembly
* AC Delco spark plugs
* HEI distributor
* Chevrolet Performance Parts red spiral core spark plug wires
* Long water pump
* 8 in. harmonic balancer
* 12 3/4 in. flexplate for automatic transmission
* Oil filter and adapter
* PCV valve
* PCV hose
* Oil dipstick and tube
* Fuel pump
* Starter
All these builds have more aggressive cams. as noted above, better heads, more compression, and etc... AND THEY BARLY MADE 400HP!!, and some made sub 400hp
Like i said in an earlier post the first stock 400 hp 350 was the C-5 ZO6 at 405 hp and it could spin to 7000 I'd just hook up a 100 hp NO2 system and run it for a couple of years and save up money for a real engine build
I was trying to find the build list and hp made from him but can't find it. What isn't in that is the prices,
AFR heads $1500 ish
howards retro roller $600 ish
Intake $200 ?
Headers Guessing 700 -1000
2.5" true duals w/ hiflo muffler $500-2000
Will you current clutch hold that much power?
Misc. parts for carb adjustments ?
Weights, springs, dist adjustment ?
New air cleaner ?
It might be possible but, you're not going to get it with that cam without boost and doubt the bottom is built for boost.
For a solid 400+ GROSS HP you will need good heads, not decent, a roller cam with .500+ Lift, and 9.5+ compression at a minimum....
400 hp is possible but maybe not with what you have now. When you pop the heads off of the engine you have now you're going to have to figure out what the CC of the pistons it. From that you can derive your volume in the cylinder at TDC. Then you can figure your CR with new heads and their volume plus the head gasket volume.
This is the procedure to cc the pistons. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mber-size.html
You have a 3.48 stroke
4.0" bore is stock, if it's been bored then it may be 4.030"
Say you get a 64 cc chamber in your new heads
Stock distance down the bore is .025"
Gasket you are going to want most likely is a .015" shim gasket
Then enter your found cc for the piston
connecting rods are 5.70" for a SBC 350
Standard advance for a cam is 4*. That is ground in by the manufacturer unless specified different for most cams.
Then you get your DCR. For aluminum 8.5 is comfortable for iron heads 8.0 is comfortable. General guidelines, not written in stone DCR is only a tool, but it gets you in the ballpark.
For good reading on all these kind of things I recommend this book for most.
It's a great book with lots of illustrations for understanding. I've read and re-read it several times. There are other books but this one is very comprehensive.
I'm running 406 HP according to the dyno on my SBC 350 @ 5700 RPM. That day I had a poorly tuned carb, could have made more, so 400 is definitely achievable.
I have Dart SHP heads for roller cams Shaved to 61cc's giving 9.9 CR.
Lunati 270/270 cam with 219@ .050/ .549 lift 108 LSA
Performer intake
Scat steel crank and Scat con rods
12 cc dish Kieth black hyper pistons
Full roller rockers 1.6 ratio
Hooker header side pipes
So I would say you could make 400 HP IF The right components are already in the bottom end.
Cast stock crank good to about 350 HP to 375 HP reliably.
Stock con rods are also weak as are the stock cast pistons.
The Q-jet is good for 400 easy but will need some tuning.
This book can cover all of that.
Really depends on how far you want to go with this as to what you do.
A general rule of thumb for the capability of a head is multiply the max CFM by two to get the potential HP that can be achieved. So if you have a 220 CFM head then it could achieve 440 HP. But the components have to be right to achieve it's potential.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Dec 11, 2015 at 09:59 PM.
FWIW my engine did 451hp/485lb-ft torque with an M4M Quadrajet (17058228), AFR 195 heads, a mild hydraulic roller cam and a low-rise ZZ4 intake. 10.25:1 CR. First gear is useless now that the weather is cold, and I'm running decent tires on it (255/45-18 Conti ExtremContact DWs). It looks fairly stock as well, installed.
I honestly don't see huge deltas in power between a stock spread bore intake and a Performer/ZZ4, but if you're tearing the motor down, it's worth it to stick a nice new intake on top that weighs less and will give you a couple HP.
