Building a new engine
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Building a new engine
Okay the engine block is at the machine shop, 79 350 4 bolt main, cast crank stock rods, 4 speed car with A/C. I'm looking at a set of Vortec heads but not sure if it fix under the stock hood. I need some help getting the right parts for this build. I'm not sure if I want to reuse the old rods but I need everything else to build this engine and get around 360hp. Pm me your number if your willing to help me finding the right parts, I don't want to break the bank anymore than I already have.
Thanks Jeff
Thanks Jeff
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Hey Jeff, welcome to the forum. The vortex heads will fit under the hood, it's the new intake manifold you need to buy is what you have to watch the height.. Vortec intake manifold bolt holes are different.
The other choice is just bolt on a set of edelbrock E street heads and use you stock manifold. Dollar wise it almost works out the same but you can use a higher lift cam without machine work that the vortec heads require.
The other choice is just bolt on a set of edelbrock E street heads and use you stock manifold. Dollar wise it almost works out the same but you can use a higher lift cam without machine work that the vortec heads require.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
360 horse power at the crank or at the rear wheel....that does make a difference.
I would be concerned about the cast crank. I would prefer a forged crank myself for bottom end strength...and the rods to be strong also.....but that is just me.
DUB
I would be concerned about the cast crank. I would prefer a forged crank myself for bottom end strength...and the rods to be strong also.....but that is just me.
DUB
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
I agree my machine shop tells me the crank is fine to use and for the rods I wanted to buy a set of eagle I beam but he said the are worst then the stock cast ones. Not really sure about that.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
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From: California
what do you have to spend? what type of performance are you looking to get?
money buys hp... tell us this and we can build it for you...
Or at lest give you some good ideas to chew on...
if your shooting for, say... 375hp and under, your cast is fine...
money buys hp... tell us this and we can build it for you...
Or at lest give you some good ideas to chew on...
if your shooting for, say... 375hp and under, your cast is fine...
Last edited by pauldana; Dec 10, 2015 at 09:09 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,524
Likes: 61
From: Medina Ohio
Budget conscious but good rods are SCAT I beams. Cheaper new then to recondition your stock rods and much higher quality. You can get the SCAT Pro Stock with 3/8" ARP bolts for under $300 and the even better Pro Comp with 7/16" bolts for around $300 or a little more.
My recommendation for a decent budget build at 360hp would be to just get a new rotating assembly @ $8-900. Scat 9000 crank good for at least 500hp, Scat I beams, and a nice set of forged pistons.
..and then at this point there is the argument why not go 383 for the same money and easy HP/TQ.
As pauldana said, what's your budget / plan?
My recommendation for a decent budget build at 360hp would be to just get a new rotating assembly @ $8-900. Scat 9000 crank good for at least 500hp, Scat I beams, and a nice set of forged pistons.
..and then at this point there is the argument why not go 383 for the same money and easy HP/TQ.
As pauldana said, what's your budget / plan?
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Le Mans Master
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From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Lincoln, CA
383 rotating assembly, have it balanced and installed.
Then get on touch with Chris Straub for a cam. Select the heads based of what matches.
I used Eagle when I had my 496 built. All forged part.
Then get on touch with Chris Straub for a cam. Select the heads based of what matches.
I used Eagle when I had my 496 built. All forged part.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
DUB
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 421
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From: Harrisburg PA
You can build a mild motor up to your goals (350-360) with your stock crank and rods if you wish, although the note above about SCAT being almost the same price new for the forged rods as reconditioning your originals...your stock crank will be fine for what you are planning--just have the machine shop balance the assembly once you select your rods).
Shoot for between 9.5-10:1 compression, and a mild-ish cam should get where you want to be, depending upon heads...Make sure the Cam is appropriate for the vacuum needs of your accessories.
Talk with your engine builder (or machine shop), and see what they recommend..Also, consider where you want your power band--some heads flow great, and will get you realy strong HP numbers, but that might be up at 5K + RPM (where most street motors don;t spend their lives)...
if this is going to be a street car, look for a cam with a good torque curve, starting around 1500RPM, and carry that throughout the anticipated RPM driving range.
Lots of people go crazy with "go fast" parts, and look only at the super high HP ratings, but honestly end up losing some of the driving fun because the motor is built for high RPM operation, when most driving is simply not in that range...
Shoot for between 9.5-10:1 compression, and a mild-ish cam should get where you want to be, depending upon heads...Make sure the Cam is appropriate for the vacuum needs of your accessories.
Talk with your engine builder (or machine shop), and see what they recommend..Also, consider where you want your power band--some heads flow great, and will get you realy strong HP numbers, but that might be up at 5K + RPM (where most street motors don;t spend their lives)...
if this is going to be a street car, look for a cam with a good torque curve, starting around 1500RPM, and carry that throughout the anticipated RPM driving range.
Lots of people go crazy with "go fast" parts, and look only at the super high HP ratings, but honestly end up losing some of the driving fun because the motor is built for high RPM operation, when most driving is simply not in that range...
Last edited by keithl1967; Dec 11, 2015 at 07:54 PM.