When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Okay the engine block is at the machine shop, 79 350 4 bolt main, cast crank stock rods, 4 speed car with A/C. I'm looking at a set of Vortec heads but not sure if it fix under the stock hood. I need some help getting the right parts for this build. I'm not sure if I want to reuse the old rods but I need everything else to build this engine and get around 360hp. Pm me your number if your willing to help me finding the right parts, I don't want to break the bank anymore than I already have.
Thanks Jeff
Hey Jeff, welcome to the forum. The vortex heads will fit under the hood, it's the new intake manifold you need to buy is what you have to watch the height.. Vortec intake manifold bolt holes are different.
The other choice is just bolt on a set of edelbrock E street heads and use you stock manifold. Dollar wise it almost works out the same but you can use a higher lift cam without machine work that the vortec heads require.
360 horse power at the crank or at the rear wheel....that does make a difference.
I would be concerned about the cast crank. I would prefer a forged crank myself for bottom end strength...and the rods to be strong also.....but that is just me.
360 horse power at the crank or at the rear wheel....that does make a difference.
I would be concerned about the cast crank. I would prefer a forged crank myself for bottom end strength...and the rods to be strong also.....but that is just me.
DUB
I agree my machine shop tells me the crank is fine to use and for the rods I wanted to buy a set of eagle I beam but he said the are worst then the stock cast ones. Not really sure about that.
Budget conscious but good rods are SCAT I beams. Cheaper new then to recondition your stock rods and much higher quality. You can get the SCAT Pro Stock with 3/8" ARP bolts for under $300 and the even better Pro Comp with 7/16" bolts for around $300 or a little more.
My recommendation for a decent budget build at 360hp would be to just get a new rotating assembly @ $8-900. Scat 9000 crank good for at least 500hp, Scat I beams, and a nice set of forged pistons.
..and then at this point there is the argument why not go 383 for the same money and easy HP/TQ.
That is correct...a stock 78/79 L-82 had forged pistons (TRW 9:1), forged crank, and forged connecting rods....
YEAH...that is where the dilemma came in for me...thus causing my first response. Something just did not seem right...cast crank/rod/pistons on a L82...just did not seem right.
You can build a mild motor up to your goals (350-360) with your stock crank and rods if you wish, although the note above about SCAT being almost the same price new for the forged rods as reconditioning your originals...your stock crank will be fine for what you are planning--just have the machine shop balance the assembly once you select your rods).
Shoot for between 9.5-10:1 compression, and a mild-ish cam should get where you want to be, depending upon heads...Make sure the Cam is appropriate for the vacuum needs of your accessories.
Talk with your engine builder (or machine shop), and see what they recommend..Also, consider where you want your power band--some heads flow great, and will get you realy strong HP numbers, but that might be up at 5K + RPM (where most street motors don;t spend their lives)...
if this is going to be a street car, look for a cam with a good torque curve, starting around 1500RPM, and carry that throughout the anticipated RPM driving range.
Lots of people go crazy with "go fast" parts, and look only at the super high HP ratings, but honestly end up losing some of the driving fun because the motor is built for high RPM operation, when most driving is simply not in that range...
Last edited by keithl1967; Dec 11, 2015 at 07:54 PM.