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Thinking about just taking the compresser off. I never use the A/C (New Hampshire). I turn it on every now and then to see if it works. I have to service it every year. The compressor or some part of the system is always in my way when I work on the engine. Can I just remove the compressor and line to the drier or is there something else that must be done? Merry Xmas.
cant be sure from your post or profile what year the car is but if the compressor belt doesn't drive anything else you can remove the compressor. Might be a good idea to cap all the lines so no dirt gets in if you ever need to reinstall.
cant be sure from your post or profile what year the car is but if the compressor belt doesn't drive anything else you can remove the compressor. Might be a good idea to cap all the lines so no dirt gets in if you ever need to reinstall.
Duh- sorry.78 pace car. Belt just drives compressor. Thanks.
If my memory serves me correctly....if you use your windshield defroster...you are using your A/C without knowing it. The A/C mixes with the heated air from your heater so it is not that hot and can snap your windshield.
If you remove it....honestly take it to a shop that can suck out the Freon and do ALL of us a favor and not let it escape into the environment. REGARDLESS of what type of Freon is in it now.
All I will add is that if you do this...and EVER think that you might want it back on or sell it to someone who might want it to work....the system needs to stay sealed up. AND moisture that will get into the lines when you open up the system can mix with the oil and remaining residual of Freon and actually (as I have been told) can become caustic and damage parts that were good when you took it apart. Taping up the connections just does not cut it. It does for dirt...but long term...it will fail. I have the correct plastic caps that come on the lines and such and when I open a system to work on it or service a part I use them. And when I open up the system I have my caps ready to go on immediately....even though I know when it goes to get charged back up...pulling vacuum on the system is removing any trace moisture and air out of the system so it will work correctly.
If my memory serves me correctly....if you use your windshield defroster...you are using your A/C without knowing it. The A/C mixes with the heated air from your heater so it is not that hot and can snap your windshield.
DUB
... also the A/C in conjunction with heat drys out the air and defogs the windshield rapidly, where without the the A/C it will take longer.
I always thought that the ac compressor ran on defrost just to keep the front compressor seal lubed during the winter so rust wouldn't compromise the seal and lead to loss of freon.
I guess it might mix with heater air, never checked.
As far as sealing the remainder of the system you are going to be hard pressed to seal it effectively enough to keep it from "breathing" and introducing moisture and corrosion without the compressor attached. Best bet is to remove the hoses and cap the evaporator and condenser separately with screw on caps.
...If you remove it....honestly take it to a shop that can suck out the Freon and do ALL of us a favor and not let it escape into the environment. REGARDLESS of what type of Freon is in it now...
I had the system evacuated . I simply removed the compressor and put plugs (high temperature rubber corks) in each of the openings in the rear fitting that attaches to the comp. Everything else stays intact. I don't use the defrost since the car is in for the winter. I had to take it off anyway since I may change the harmonica balancer.
I had the system evacuated . I simply removed the compressor and put plugs (high temperature rubber corks) in each of the openings in the rear fitting that attaches to the comp. Everything else stays intact. I don't use the defrost since the car is in for the winter. I had to take it off anyway since I may change the harmonica balancer.
Glad that you got it the way you want it now But for the record...you do not have to remove the A/C compressor to change out a harmonic balancer when the engine is still in the car.
Glad that you got it the way you want it now But for the record...you do not have to remove the A/C compressor to change out a harmonic balancer when the engine is still in the car.
DUB
I know you dont HAVE to but after looking at it at length I figured that I would have to go through that area at times to access the bolts for the pulley and removal tool. Still not sure about it. Any hints are appreciated.
I have a very flexible long hose that is attached to my impact...so I can get it down in the area in front of the harmonic balancer and I can easily remove the bolts with a tap of the trigger. I take the fan off the front of the water pump... which is a snap WHILE all the belts are still tight to aid in getting the nuts to come loose.
I have a very flexible long hose that is attached to my impact...so I can get it down in the area in front of the harmonic balancer and I can easily remove the bolts with a tap of the trigger. I take the fan off the front of the water pump... which is a snap WHILE all the belts are still tight to aid in getting the nuts to come loose.
DUB
How hard is it to pull off the balancer.? I have the tool just dont know what to expect for what it takes to break it loose?
How hard is it to pull off the balancer.? I have the tool just dont know what to expect for what it takes to break it loose?
You might find that when you use your CORRECT harmonic balancer removal tool....and bolt it to the harmonic balancer.....and begin to tighten the bolt in the center that will begin to press against the crankshaft and push the balancer off...that it might take a bit of effort to get the balancer to begin to move. AS LONG AS you have the harmonic balancer tool installed EVENLY....so it will pull it off evenly...you should not have a problem. It is not just going to come off using your fingers...you are going to have to put some muscle into it....and do not be shocked if you hear a POP sound and that is the seat that is being separated (so-to-speak) due to it being on the engine for so long. Hopefully your tool has the pointed attachment that goes in the end of the center long bolt so it will center itself in the hole in the end of the crankshaft also. Make sure the size is BIG enough so you do not force a small one in the hole and get it stuck. OBVIOUSLY...if the diameter of your tapered pointed attachment is larger than the hole in the end of the crank...you are OK.
As for the defroster, the AC is set to run to de-humidify the heated air, works much better. But as we all know, heated air by itself works, just takes longer.