DUB said "There is a limit to what I personally feel is usable for the street."

I agree completely. My 93 RX-7 has aftermarket turbos, computer, exhaust, intercooler and other mods that translate to 420 rwhp. Some of the youngsters in the rotary engine crowd try to get even more hp. Not sure why, since my car weighs only 2400 lbs, has a 4.10 rear axle and spins the rear wheels at 100 mph in third gear. Except for bragging rights, there is a point where more power just does not make you go any faster. Either the rear wheels spin in older cars without electronic traction control or the computer starts to throttle down so you do not go out of control and kill yourself. Most of the 500 plus hp new cars hardly ever run at full throttle if the traction control is on.[/QUOTE]

My car is lke that...1140 RWHP on a mild tune. It's insane...but with "real" tires it will be fine. I just use whatever the tires will allow....which isn't much....but if you keep it on the edge of traction it scoots!

Circle track guys have known this for years...often the guy with less power can drive "harder" and outrun less skilled drivers with more power. But get a car with the chassis to handle the additional power and a driver to match...you won't catch him.

JIM

 

What does this even mean? Manifolds are cheaper and quieter, those LS7 manifolds are nice factory manifolds and you should pay attention to how much was put into their development. Its clear Chevrolet was searching for something while retaining a docile sound. It also explains the use of a 20 degree split and super wide LSA, the factory crutched the exhaust with cam timing. Aftermarket cams for LS7 with headers/exhaust other supporting mods are generally 8 to 12 degrees....

 

427Hotrod-"1140 RWHP on a mild tune". What do you consider an aggressive tune?
RA

 

LOL....when I crank it up!! It does that on 93 octane and a little water/methanol since I don't have an intercooler.

The thing picks up 225+ RWHP per 500 RPM. Comes on fast and hard!

Once I figure out how to get it down the track with this power level....I'll adjust the wastegates and add some more boost with good gas.

JIM

 

I put him on my ignore list a few weeks ago- life is good.

Life would be great if everybody would stop taking the bait and simply not respond ...

 

Ahah! "add some more boost" You said the magic word "boost". I thought 1000+ hp on a naturally aspirated motor was pretty good. I run 15 psi on my RX-7 for longevity of the engine. Stock is 10 psi. I did one dyno run at 20 psi a few years ago and got 590 rwhp and there is a guy in TX (Ari Yallon) who drag races a RX7.com car that runs about 30 psi and gets over 800 rwhp. But he rebuilds his motor every two or three runs. I'm on my third motor and major parts (side housings) are getting scarce, so I don't want to chance it. At least parts for my 454 in the Vette are easy to get.

 

Boost is some crazy stuff. It ran 9's@142 N/A (871 flywheel HP) on pump gas, through the mufflers, 3.07 rear gears.

Took out 2.5 points of compression, 20* of cam and hung two small hair driers on it. So far only hit it with 15-18 psi.

JIM

 

Jim, what are those turbos good for each? Do you have a size comparison for something like a TC76? I am trying to research a TT build myself and their are not many examples to pull info from... If you care to reply a pm would suffice, not trying to hijack

 

My car is lke that...1140 RWHP on a mild tune. It's insane...but with "real" tires it will be fine. I just use whatever the tires will allow....which isn't much....but if you keep it on the edge of traction it scoots!

Circle track guys have known this for years...often the guy with less power can drive "harder" and outrun less skilled drivers with more power. But get a car with the chassis to handle the additional power and a driver to match...you won't catch him.

JIM[/QUOTE]

I agree... As long as your tires will hold your good.... I went down to a sub 200 ware track tire... 650hp. 510rwhp and 1st and 2nd you have to judge the peddle or the back tire will light up at any speed... 3rd you start to get safe:-). I'm at 3100lbs

 

Jim,

MAN...you are getting my toes curling in my shoes...the same way I had them get when I would be on the starting line right before the car left the line when I worked on a nitro funny car team. Regardless if it is 8000 HP or 1000+ HP...getting it to hook up and launch is something that I hope you find and figure out.

I CAN appreciate extreme power....and what it takes to get it to that level.

DUB

 

I made my own reverse flow high performance 17" long oval mufflers several years ago. They are loud but not nearly as loud as the 40-series Flow Masters and other similar mufflers. I made them using 2-1/2" exhaust tubing and 16-gauge galvanized steel then MIG welded them together. Counting the 2-1/2" $15 hole saw the total cost was about $110 and it took me about 3 days to complete them.

 

Some asked about aftermarket ram horn manifolds...

The stock Corvette cast iron ram horn manifolds the stock ones could probably be improved by Extrude bone porting for a few extra horsepower.

Extrude boned cast iron manifolds used on 2000-2002 LS1 fbodies were usually worth about 3-5rwhp.

 

The "ram horn" design wasn't designed for performance work but rather to get the exhaust out and pointed down in the direction of the upper exhaust pipe. The Mopar 413" RamCharger upswept iron manifolds were the only ones I knew of that were truly a "performance" design.

 

They are Borg Warners from the EFR series. Definitely nice design and flow more air than similar larger ones as well as spooling very quickly. The EFR series is also used on all Indy 500 cars. I got to spend a good bit of time with the designers and was very impressed. I really like the integral waste gates and blowoff valves. A lot easier/cleaner to package everything.

Take a look at their site for details and for some great reading go the "download" section and in the drop down select "performance" and then download the " EFR Technical Training Book". Really good stuff.

http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/efr.aspx


Mine are the 91/80 versions. Much Smaller (68mm inlet) than most folks would run on a full race bad boy setup for sure...but I needed easy packaging and instant spool. I didn't want to have to worry about using N20 or a "bang box" like you see all the race guys use with a trans brake to get them to leave the line. Street stuff is lots different...lag going through the gears would be annoying.

JIM

 

Cool, thanks for the "instructions" lol... they definitely compact turbos. Not like the s400/300 I see being slapped on every ls/lq transplant. Packaging twin s400/300 would be problematic, but the BW dependability is so good....

 

They aren't the cheapest series...but once you look at the differences and how all those other are tweaked diesel designs...you can see why. If you add in the cost of wastegates, blow off valves and added plumbing...they look even more attractive.

Interestingly, there are lots of folks out there making "improved" wheels for a lot of turbos...BW included. Of course they test them and when you see the results it's interesting to see how the "trick" stuff is a lot of good marketing in most cases. I believe BW has figured out how to make an efficient turbo after all these years...and if they saw a reason to start from scratch..and this is what they came up with...I'm good.

If you didn't see it before...here's some of the articles on the install and tuning. Page 26 for tuning and page 80 for install.


http://digital.olivesoftware.com/Oli...&view=document


Heres' the engine changes:

http://www.carsandparts.com/en/tech/...package-1.html

JIM

 

Now why would you go through all that trouble and expense? I just don't see it as being necessary for a "street car" and if GM thought it was better they would have done it that way! Certainly we can't improve our exhaust systems and expect any performance gains at light/part throttle can we? Or was this just for "poser" sound effects?

Seriously...I did something similar on my '88 5.0 Mustang. At the time, I was heavily involved in shall we say "late night acceleration contests" and every 5.0 on the planet had the "Flowmaster" option as we called it along with "off road" pipes and no Cats. Of course during negotiations....that was considered an advantage.

Mine rolled with gutted cats, and then I took apart the factory 5.0 mufflers..which BTW were actually excellent in design...and proceeded to gut them internally and weld them shut. Suckers were made out of some goofy stainless that drove me and a welder buddy nuts to put them back together. The factory heat shields hid the mods from prying eyes.

Of course it got louder..but I could always argue it was stock and it passed everyone's inspection.

It also had home ported heads, blocked EGR and intake heat, some judicious use of resistors in the temp circuit to richen/lean as required, 3.55 gears, no air box silencer, no spare tire, no front swaybar, 60 psi of air in front tires etc etc. Ran 12.90's when everyone else was lucky to be hitting mid 13's. I literally made the car payments on the weekends!

Still have it....but eventually put Flowmasters on it because they sounded better!


JIM

 

You forgot : bump the timing with the "chip" out of the dizzy, adjust the TPS voltage, 2" race crank pulley and short belt bypassing all the accessories, 1.7 roller rockers, home ported TB and EGR plate, tie the coolant cross overs together bypassing the TB, adjust the fuel pressure regulator (to who knows what...)



I grew up with those mustangs... We could usually get them in the 12s with all of the stuff above, using some G60 McCrearys and dumping the clutch at 5k...lol

Eventually, we had some pretty fast ones on spray....(10.90-11.0), circa 95'.

Good times, good times..

 

LOL....yeah my time with them was when I bought it new in '88. There weren't any good heads and stuff out yet. I even used Ford gaskets when I put it back together after porting just in case I had to take it in for warranty work. I was determined to keep it as stock as possible looking...folks would give you the leave or lengths and bet more $$ that way. No pulleys, short belt, rockers, fuel pressure stock etc etc.

I ran McCreary's for a while (great tires for the $$$) and then worked on launching with plain General's. McCreary's made people think you were serious...General's made you look like easy pickin's!

I swear I got more action with that thing than my '68 SS/RS 427 Camaro with 2 stages of N20!

'Stang's ruled until the GN's got serious. So I got one of them too for my wife to drive!

JIM

 

That's cool that you still have your original stang.. We need to see some pics of that!

There has been a huge resurgence in fox body mustangs as of late... Lots of my high school buddies have been going and buying them...trying to relive their youth I guess... Matter in fact, a buddy just bought a 91' coupe yesterday, 302/AFR165s/B cam/headers etc... Car is mint..

Most of them are LS swapped these days.. You can't argue with the performance of the fox body cars..

I'm nostalgic so I still like em with ford power in them.

I remember the basic combo was GT40 heads/intake, B303 cam, Pro M mass air, 65mm TB, long tube headers/off road exhaust and 3.73s. That combo would go mid 12s in a GT and low 12s in a coupe. Then spray 150 on it, 11.20s or so.. The Vortech and Procharger came out with blowers for them around 91', and it was all over after that...


My sophmore year (93'), my buddy got hit by a city dump truck, he got like $100k for pain/damages. He bought a new 93' Cobra and put an intercooled Procharger kit on it, along with heads/cam/exhaust. That car ran 11.0s@128... when it wasn't pushing head gaskets anyway.. I went for a ride in that thing and holy $hit.. The way it pulled in 4th on the highway felt insane to me back then.


Back then, mustang guys were the rich kids in school, those cars were the enemies for us F and G body people. I had a 78' Trans Am, and it was my mission to beat mustangs every weekend for 3 years of high school...and there after...ironically, not much has changed today. Lol