Lonestar uses ONLY Delco Moraine cores, whatever else you're looking at it Chinese crap.

 

i understand your reasoning, and i respect that

 

You need to ask for the Brand name and find the vendor part # that matches that brand. They went to check the boxes before I orderd. They also carry other brands but they will check if pushed.

I have a set from Mid America that came with a "lifetime warranty" They started leaking after 3-4 years. And the lifetime warranty only covers the leak between the SS Sleeve and the caliper and not the piston seal that is the important part. They have since removed the claim of "lifetime warranty" since it was very misleading on the product. They were O-ring style and were no better than other brands. Came in a lonestar box. I now have wilwoods so see how they do. For me the original factory calipers have lasted the longest. 14+ years.

 

Update: Front brakes are done. I went with Wilwood D8-4 calipers and hoses with Summit brand drilled and slotted rotors. Brakes feel much better. Install was easy except for the rounded nuts on my brake lines. I've bled them once with my motive power bleeder and plan on a second round after a few miles. Gonna do the rears with same parts before Spring. If anyone is wondering, D8-4 Calibers, SS Hoses, Rotors and Pads with cost you around 1250. More if you go with the powder coated calipers or put D8-6s on front.

 

I was lucky to get mine during a promotion on this forum by van steel about 3.5 years ago. got the d8-6 fronts and d8-4 rears for like 1k....... powdercoated red too. I can't believe it took me a month to decide. One of the best things I've done..... more important than a lot of other things I've spent money on this car. I have not done a single thing to them since I installed them.

 

o-rings are a band-aid, they don`t fix anything, the fix would be to cure your rotor run-out issue. aftermarket (Wilwood) calipers use square cut o-rings not round o-rings and they can do this because the groove for the o-ring is in the bore of the caliper not on the piston.

 

we have had our 69 for 30yrs, rebuilt the calipers ourselves twice, original no s/s with lip seals. Took the time years ago to set the run out. The car will stop on a dime every time.

I like these gm calipers, easy to rebuild, we are in the middle of a body off on this beast and are going to turn them into j56 calipers. It is a easy upgrade

 

where are you finding J-56 pistons? specifically the insulators, I use them and need some...

 

This topic has been discussed many times before....

I replaced my OEM calipers in 1985 with VBP SS calipers at all 4 wheels at that time and have not had an issue with them since that time. The OEM calipers with regular lip seals and SS bores are terrific when maintained and operating correctly (change the brake fluid every 4-5 years). O ring calipers are just a band aid for incorrect rotor run out.

As for the Wilwood aluminum 4/6 piston calipers with the OEM 12 inch rotors, they will NOT improve braking performance without using a 13/14 inch rotor in place of the OEM 12 inch rotor which requires a 17/18 inch rim. A wilwood 4 piston caliper with a 13 inch or 14 inch rotor or a 6 piston wilwood caliper with a 13/14 inch rotor will out brake the stock designed system but only due to the larger rotor and/or 6 piston front wilwood caliper....this fact has been documented by a forum member a few years ago and vette magazine articles on the wilwood system when the wilwood calipers first came out...Period. Putting on 4 wilwood 4 piston calipers with the OEM 12 inch rotor will gain you very little in terms of braking performance

The advantage of the wildwood caliper system is primarily the front 6 piston caliper (like the C6Z06) and the use of a larger rotor size plus its aluminum design has better heat rejection for racing but not a factor for street driven C3's.

My 78 C3 with the stock SS calipers, braided SS brake lines, and performance friction pads will also stop on a dime...

The funny thing about the C3 brakes which were state of the art in 1965 and STILL today are top notch....try and find a car TODAY with 4 piston fixed calipers front AND rear for under $50k...they don't exist but can be found rarely on more expensive sports sedans/cars. I have said this before but the simplest and cheapest way to upgrade the C3 front brakes would be for someone to make a caliper bracket that would allow the use of the OEM caliper with a 13 inch rotor that would fit the C3 front brakes (OEM design not an aftermarket 13 inch rotor since those vendors want crazy money for their drilled/slotted rotors to fit a C3). This simple change would make a noticeable improvement in the C3 brakes but no one makes the bracket or an OEM type 13 inch rotor since there is NO MONEY in this conversion for them. I just did this upgrade on my 01 GP DD from front 11 inch rotors with the OEM caliper to 01 Impala 12 inch rotors (paid $20 for 2 new impala front caliper brackets and reused the GP caliper which is the same for the impala) and bought Impala 12 inch rotors....noticeable difference in braking.

BTW-I have a 10C6Z06 for a brake comparison...yes it wins every time BUT it has a 6 piston front caliper with a 14 inch drilled rotor and a rear 4 piston caliper with a 13 inch drilled rotor PLUS massive ZR tires AND weighs 3,100 lbs

 

Mid America, looks like they have a good sub. for the j56 pistons

Duntov also, but he wants a fortune for his.

 

Has anyone tried moving the rear brake to the diff? I've seen this on other cars, why not a c3?