'81 E4ME Qudrajet Choke Linkage
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
'81 E4ME Qudrajet Choke Linkage
I am in the final stages of rebuilding my '81's Quadrajet but did not take enough pictures of the choke linkage. Can any of you tell me if the part in the second pic is in the correct orientation, in the first pic?
Any good detail pics of the choke linkage would also be appreciated.
Gordon
Any good detail pics of the choke linkage would also be appreciated.
Gordon
#2
Melting Slicks
Its in the wrong position.
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64roadster (01-28-2016)
#4
Melting Slicks
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
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I just have to figure out the orientation of the small choke rod lever that mounts inside the float bowl case, and which side the choke rod connects to the lever.
50/50 chance to get it right.
50/50 chance to get it right.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Getting the choke rod lever installed in the carb body is a pain. I'm trying to do it with tweezers but darn, it's the most difficult part of this build.
#8
Race Director
The shaft on the choke body is keyed to the bottom part of that lower choke link. The upper holes are round.
What I do is attach the lower link to the upper link and fish it into the groove in the float bowl, then gently introduce the choke body while rotating the choke shaft (cap off lets you rotate it inside the choke housing). While rotating the shaft you can raise and lower the link to try to get the keyhole lined up. You put gentle pressure inwards on the choke housing to keep the lower link from slipping out of the groove.
HTH.
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2006
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Attach the choke lever to the rod and drop it into the carb body. Then support the carb so that the choke side is straight up. Use a small screw driver to move the lever into position so that you can see the slot where the choke slides into it. Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to rotate the lever so it lines up with the choke . Remove the screwdriver and drop the choke into place. It takes about a minute to do.
#10
Team Owner
Put the choke rod lever on the choke rod and use a long, thin piece of duct tape to hold the position of the lever where it needs to be. Insert that assembly down into the cavity and install choke. If the orientation of the lever is correct, it will seat properly and you can put a screw in to hold it. Then, pull out the duct tape. Pretty easy, once you get the hang of it.
#11
Tech Contributor
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Lars
Last edited by lars; 01-30-2016 at 10:59 AM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#13
Shark Racer has the easy way.
This is slightly different.
As shark racer says gently introduce the choke shaft into the carb, (the choke shaft is tapered slightly on the end). Let the shaft protrude slightly into the choke linkage cavity. Lower the rod & lever down to the choke shaft, letting the lever hang down, you just have to get it close so the shaft so can capture the lever while holding a little pressure against it with the shaft. Move the lever with the rod up and down until it aligns with the keyed shaft, push the choke assembly in. That is it.
In the early days of the Q Jet GM had to recall the Q Jets to replace the fast idle cam, the engine heat caused it to break, in some instances it locked the linkage to a fast idle speed. GM devised a tool to capture the link so that that the defective part could be changed, sometimes the link fell off, hello little magnet. I was a youngest mechanic in the Chevrolet shop, guess who got that warranty job?
This is slightly different.
As shark racer says gently introduce the choke shaft into the carb, (the choke shaft is tapered slightly on the end). Let the shaft protrude slightly into the choke linkage cavity. Lower the rod & lever down to the choke shaft, letting the lever hang down, you just have to get it close so the shaft so can capture the lever while holding a little pressure against it with the shaft. Move the lever with the rod up and down until it aligns with the keyed shaft, push the choke assembly in. That is it.
In the early days of the Q Jet GM had to recall the Q Jets to replace the fast idle cam, the engine heat caused it to break, in some instances it locked the linkage to a fast idle speed. GM devised a tool to capture the link so that that the defective part could be changed, sometimes the link fell off, hello little magnet. I was a youngest mechanic in the Chevrolet shop, guess who got that warranty job?
Last edited by bpassmore; 01-30-2016 at 11:44 AM. Reason: punctuation error
#14
Race Director
The link you're trying to work with is the one that goes to the air horn.
The air horn (upper link) to intermediate link is the one with the kick-out in it. The lower link is flat. Flip them around.
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64roadster (01-30-2016)
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I really appreciate the input of everyone. Pics really help to tell the story.
Last edited by 64roadster; 01-30-2016 at 12:34 PM. Reason: Grammar
#16
Race Director
Ahhhh, no wonder. I had the links reversed. Man, you can't imagine how many hours I have spent trying to get the bent link to work in the lower position. The flat link was a piece of cake and gives all the rod travel I need.
I really appreciate the input of everyone. Pics really help to tell the story.
I really appreciate the input of everyone. Pics really help to tell the story.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter