A while back I was working on the car and accidently hit the cylinder lock bezel with a wrench. It broke one of the little flat hooks that hold the bezel onto the lock assembly. I can still operate the key switch but it's a pain. I looked at several tech posts on replacing the lock assembly and pulling the steering wheel, turn signal and everything else looks like an even greater pain. Is there any way I can buy a new bezel and replace it without taking all of these things apart?

 

It is very important to indicate the type of steering column in your Vett. Both the tilt and telescoping and the non-adjustable columns use the same ignition lock cylinder. But the disassembly of the steering columns are somewhat different.

Having said the above, I assume that you have a tilt & telescoping type steering column. The T&T column was installed in nearly 100% of the Corvettes by the start of 1979 production. The non-adjustable column was eliminated during the 1979 model year.

With a T&T column it is very helpful to have a special tool to compress the locking plate. This tool is usually loaned to you by the major automotive parts stores since the tool is useful only once or twice in your car's lifetime. You will also require a steering wheel hub puller. This is more of a universal type tool but I assume that it can be borrowed for the day as well.

Here are links to a T&T column disassembly & repair paper on replacing the ignition lock cylinder.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1004

You should only require Paper #1 to replace the lock cylinder.

I doubt that there is any way to repair the lock cylinder when the bezel is broken as you describe.

Jim

 

Thanks for the help Jim. You know your stuff. I've had this car for over 20 years. I love the design but it's a typical of GM over engineering. They apparently think simple might work but lets make it as complicated as possible. I've got a 68 F-100 and all you do to change the lock cylinder is push in on a release hole and pull it out and I've got to rip out half of the steering column to change this one. I took a close look at it today. It looks like those 2 clips engage a ring that allows the cylinder to turn. I'm thinking about a JB Weld job and if that don't work I might just do some creative wiring to a momentary for the starter and a toggle for the ignition. Thanks again and have a great day

 

You're right Jim. I tried a few fixes and none of them worked for long. So now I'm starting the real fix with the help of your papers. I've got one problem right from the start. Your papers and other info on this site indicate that the lock cylinder design was changed in the middle of the 79 model year. I'd like to have the right one on hand before I take things apart but I don't know which one I need, I seem to recall seeing something about the serial or VIN numbers after which the cylinder was held by the allen screw. Could you or anyone here give me this information or tell me where I could find it?

 

Lock cylinder replacement was one of the first jobs I did to my '79. It's not too bad don't be surprised if you wind up replacing other things that break on your way in My production number is 49,225 (of 53,807) so it was quite late. It had the single screw retaining the cylinder as illustrated in the '79 service manual.

There's a plastic retainer/insulator over the snap ring that if original will almost certainly break to pieces no matter how carefully you remove. If you don't replace it the horn will sound continually and it's also possible for the snap ring to fall off while driving resulting in a loss of steering--in other words it's an essential part.

When removing the snap ring, be aware that the "U" shaped tool that comes with rental wheel puller sets is both too short and too flimsy for use in a Corvette T&T column. I eventually learned to remove and replace it quickly as long as I had a helper for a minute or so.

While you have to loosen the turn signal switch you don't have to remove it completely. I was extremely careful when doing such with mine but after reassembly the signal would no longer cancel in one direction. I bought an aftermarket replacement from AutoZone and it would very rarely cancel in either direction. I then bought a genuine Delco from the local Chevy dealer and it works fine.

The switch for the key-in reminder is both delicate and finely adjusted--be especially carefully when removing, handling and replacing. Fortunately I had no problems with it at least

 

Thanks for the information. My production number is 43,737 so I still don't know which one to buy. I assume you're one of us who wrote to GM and got the complete years spec's back when Vette owners could get them by asking. I've re-read most of the sheets and can't find any info as to when they changed the lock cylinders. If anyone can help me with this I'd surely appreciate it.

 

Well I got it apart and just finished ordering the parts. I'll tell you this much. It might be an easy job for some of you young guys but getting the air duct out and the wiring disconnected was quite painful on my 68 year old body. I got a few surprises along the way. I have a steering wheel puller that worked great and I made a compressor out of a piece of 3/4 angle that I center bored to fit over the threads on the shaft and I bored 2 7/16 holes 1 3/4 inches off center I put it on the shaft backed up by the steering wheel nut and used 2 3/8 threaded rods to compress the plate. Worked fine. When I finally got to the lock cylinder it had the slit shown on Jim's sheets and no allen screw. I messed with it for over an hour trying to remove the flash and find the tab in that slit area and was just about to give up and get out my dent puller when I noticed a black countersunk phillips head next to where those 2 electrical contact feelers are located . It was covered by a plastic tab attached to the connector. When I removed the phillips screw the cylinder came right out. I hope the re-installation goes easier that the removal. The engine, suspension and rear end housing work was far easier than this.

One question.....what are those 2 contacts? I bent them up pretty badly trying to find that tab.

 

Is this what you're referring to? https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...add-tele-77-91

 

Most likely the switch for the key-in reminder buzzer. If you want it to work I suggest getting a new one as they're quite finicky. I have my doubts that a new one will come perfectly adjusted so if you don't have access to a service manual write and I'll post the instructions.

Sorry to tell you this but I find replacing that snap ring more difficult than removing it. At least it sounds like you made a sturdy enough tool to do the job without too much problem.

Working and worming around inside that cabin (even with the seats removed) for hours gets my 53 year-old body aching the next day as well. I hope I even feel up to such a job at 68!

 

Yes, that's the little devil. If it's a $50 item I can live without it. I'll bend around on it and see if I can get it to make contact when I put the turn signal back in. If not no big deal but thanks for the info. I'd hate it if it was something that would effect the safety or if I put it all back together and it wouldn't start. I'm going to test along the way to make sure that the new cylinder works all the important stuff like the thing I hate the most the steering lock, If I could disable all of them I would. My brother almost died when he had an engine fire while on the road and made the mistake of shutting off the ignition and pulling the key out

 

Something I forgot. I may not feel like getting it done at the age of 68 but my 67 year old wife of 45 years who has tolerated my working on this car for the last 20 plus years, working far more than we have been riding in it, wants to go out for some rides. What can I say?

 

Get it working at least reasonably and enjoy some cruises! If you have dog(s), take along!

 

Got it all done. Almost everything works and only a couple of parts left over. I had a real scare with the key reminder contacts/ bent them back to where it looked like they would make contact with the contacts on the turn signal assy but when I got it installed as soon as I put the key in the horn blew and wouldn't shut off until I removed the key. Tried a few times and finally removed the contact assy. After that everything worked except the buzzer. Now I'm trying to overcome 4 years of sitting in the garage. Contact point cleaner is my best friend. I've got the wipers working and the lights except for the dash lights but I think it's in the switch. Thanks for all the help.