Leaf spring color for my 77
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
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From: Milford, CT
Leaf spring color for my 77
I have the undercarriage almost done on my 77. I am down to painting 3 parts.... transaxle, half shafts and leaf spring.
I plan on painting the transaxle silver because I think it might have been silver from the factory (I am not looking for a factory restoration)
I plan pn painting the half shafts with cast iron gray Eastwood Castblast. Its a dark iron gray color. I was thinking of painting the leaf spring shadow gray but I am not sure how that will look.
Any suggestions or pictures? Thanks!
I plan on painting the transaxle silver because I think it might have been silver from the factory (I am not looking for a factory restoration)
I plan pn painting the half shafts with cast iron gray Eastwood Castblast. Its a dark iron gray color. I was thinking of painting the leaf spring shadow gray but I am not sure how that will look.
Any suggestions or pictures? Thanks!
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Here is the rear end from the swc we did. Your car would have looked like this when new.
The half shafts were actually raw steel... but there is no way I'd want that for a car that I drove. Personally I think your on the right track, I'd blast and clear them or use cast blast.
The rear spring was an odd color with almost a blue hue to it, it's available in a rattle can, I'll get you the link.
The half shafts were actually raw steel... but there is no way I'd want that for a car that I drove. Personally I think your on the right track, I'd blast and clear them or use cast blast.
The rear spring was an odd color with almost a blue hue to it, it's available in a rattle can, I'll get you the link.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 1, 2016 at 12:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
Here is the rear end from the swc we did. Your car would have looked like this when new.
The half shafts were actually raw steel... but there is no way I'd want that for a car that I drove. Personally I think your on the right track, I'd blast and clear them or use cast blast.
The rear spring was an odd color with almost a blue hue to it, it's available in a rattle can, I'll get you the link.
The half shafts were actually raw steel... but there is no way I'd want that for a car that I drove. Personally I think your on the right track, I'd blast and clear them or use cast blast.
The rear spring was an odd color with almost a blue hue to it, it's available in a rattle can, I'll get you the link.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
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From: Milford, CT
What I used to paint my half shafts is a spray can product called Eastwood Spray Gray. Its a darker raw steel color. It looks exactly like the shade of gray that you painted your half shafts with. The problem I am having is finding that shade of paint that you painted the differential with. I was thinking of trying something like Eastwood Aluma Blast but I think it may be to bright of a silver. I can't find any paint called Raw Cast.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi JC,
The paint called Cast Blast that the various vendors sell is a good choice for the differential housing.
The half shafts were a much brighter, silvery, steel. The ends of the half shafts, the u-joint carriers were cast iron too and so look good with Cast Blast on them. The change in color occurs at the weld between the 'tube' and the carrier.
Regards,
Alan
The paint called Cast Blast that the various vendors sell is a good choice for the differential housing.
The half shafts were a much brighter, silvery, steel. The ends of the half shafts, the u-joint carriers were cast iron too and so look good with Cast Blast on them. The change in color occurs at the weld between the 'tube' and the carrier.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Feb 2, 2016 at 09:25 AM.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 193
From: Scottsdale Arizona
On my body off 72 I used cast blast on the differential housing and on the half shafts I used cast blast on the yolks and on the tubes because they were new I wanted to preserve the weld color I used VHT satin clear. I am planning on Krylon semi flat on the spring.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
What I used to paint my half shafts is a spray can product called Eastwood Spray Gray. Its a darker raw steel color. It looks exactly like the shade of gray that you painted your half shafts with. The problem I am having is finding that shade of paint that you painted the differential with. I was thinking of trying something like Eastwood Aluma Blast but I think it may be to bright of a silver. I can't find any paint called Raw Cast.
Use the cast blast or the stuff you can get from Eastwood. Cast blast is some good stuff.
Willcox
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 69F,
I like your idea of preserving or duplicating the darken zone on the yoke and tube.
I believe though that the 'heat' zone traveled onto the tube a short distance. That colored area continues to be a challenge to duplicate if it's been lost.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an example on a drive-shaft and yoke.
I like your idea of preserving or duplicating the darken zone on the yoke and tube.
I believe though that the 'heat' zone traveled onto the tube a short distance. That colored area continues to be a challenge to duplicate if it's been lost.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an example on a drive-shaft and yoke.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 470
From: Wichita Kansas
Hi 69F,
I like your idea of preserving or duplicating the darken zone on the yoke and tube.
I believe though that the 'heat' zone traveled onto the tube a short distance. That colored area continues to be a challenge to duplicate if it's been lost.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an example on a drive-shaft and yoke.
I like your idea of preserving or duplicating the darken zone on the yoke and tube.
I believe though that the 'heat' zone traveled onto the tube a short distance. That colored area continues to be a challenge to duplicate if it's been lost.
Regards,
Alan
Here's an example on a drive-shaft and yoke.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi k,
The heat zone/weld seam has been lost on the drive-shaft in the photos.
The dark heat zone along the length of the tube is the result of the manufacturing process in which a flat steel sheet is rolled and welded into the tube shape.
Many folks would be delighted to be able to duplicate it when restoring half-shafts and drive shafts.
Regards,
Alan
Could you post a photo of what you have?
The heat zone/weld seam has been lost on the drive-shaft in the photos.
The dark heat zone along the length of the tube is the result of the manufacturing process in which a flat steel sheet is rolled and welded into the tube shape.
Many folks would be delighted to be able to duplicate it when restoring half-shafts and drive shafts.
Regards,
Alan
Could you post a photo of what you have?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 470
From: Wichita Kansas
Hi k,
The heat zone/weld seam has been lost on the drive-shaft in the photos.
The dark heat zone along the length of the tube is the result of the manufacturing process in which a flat steel sheet is rolled and welded into the tube shape.
Many folks would be delighted to be able to duplicate it when restoring half-shafts and drive shafts.
Regards,
Alan
Could you post a photo of what you have?
The heat zone/weld seam has been lost on the drive-shaft in the photos.
The dark heat zone along the length of the tube is the result of the manufacturing process in which a flat steel sheet is rolled and welded into the tube shape.
Many folks would be delighted to be able to duplicate it when restoring half-shafts and drive shafts.
Regards,
Alan
Could you post a photo of what you have?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,938
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
an old girlfriend wore a pair of stocking with seams on them, we didn't make it to dinner that night. perspective .
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
This is a good primer on restoring rear-end chassis. I'm curious how restorers get half-shafts from the finish of a blast cabinet (raw cast) to the shiny shown above? Seems I recall where the heat marks are added with a propane torch or something.
Ernie...remember to ask Kevin about the PC7-like stuff for securing t-top liner towers...thx!
Ernie...remember to ask Kevin about the PC7-like stuff for securing t-top liner towers...thx!
Last edited by hunt4cleanair; Dec 12, 2016 at 04:22 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If your car will not be NCRS-judged, don't get too **** about paints and details. Very few folks will even look underneath. If your half-shafts are not rusty, clear-coat them with a semi-gloss or gloss clear. The diffy, yokes on the half-shafts and even the spring could be done in cast-iron color. As long as those parts are well protected so they will not rust, you will be good-to-go.
If you are going to have the car judged, heed Alan71's advice.
If you are going to have the car judged, heed Alan71's advice.
