Wheel adapter question
04-23-2016, 04:44 PM
#21
Drifting
You say that the tires touch the parking brake cable and the spring. Was this with the car off of the ground and the wheels at full droop?
If it was, you may be surprised when you lower the car to the ground to find that you now have clearance between the spring and the tire. Because of the unequal lengths of the half shaft and the strut rod, the wheel moves in an arc and you have less clearance at full droop. At normal ride height and suspension travel, you will have additional clearance. I would want about an inch to call it good. If that is the case then all you really need to do is move the parking brake mount to the top of the control arm.
Good luck... GUSTO
If it was, you may be surprised when you lower the car to the ground to find that you now have clearance between the spring and the tire. Because of the unequal lengths of the half shaft and the strut rod, the wheel moves in an arc and you have less clearance at full droop. At normal ride height and suspension travel, you will have additional clearance. I would want about an inch to call it good. If that is the case then all you really need to do is move the parking brake mount to the top of the control arm.
Good luck... GUSTO
If all you have to do is relocate the parking break cable, this is cake.
Although...I would STILL advise looking into new wheel studs...especially if this is for new, directional, modern tires. The added traction increases the stress applied to those studs, and I can't stress enough how NOT FUN IT IS to drive the car and have studs snap. It's ride you don't want.
04-24-2016, 12:13 PM
#23
Drifting
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My understanding is if a bearing fails, in a "slip fit", and the bearing seizes, and the axle twists off, then the wheel is free to come off after it breaks off the brake caliper. Then you see a wheel, looking very much like yours, passing you on the road.
04-25-2016, 11:33 AM
#26
Race Director
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Read post 17 again. You can't have clearance between rotating components or the inner part rolls around the inside surface of the outer part. The front bearings can be slip fit onto the spindle because the spindle and inner bearing race don't rotate.
04-25-2016, 12:52 PM
#27
Drifting
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Here is my reasoning....
1/ Slip fit does not imply a "loose" fit. It is a slight interference fit.
2/ The inner race is completely secured to the axle spindle with 100+ ft lb of torque. The inner race and spindle become "locked" together.
I don't understand your statement about the spindle being able to "roll" inside the inner race.
You can't compare the rear with the front spindle setup as the front inner race is not secured in place.
As I said above, the inner race / spindle is "torqued" together. How can this "roll around"?
Last edited by Barry's70LT1; 04-25-2016 at 12:53 PM.
04-25-2016, 01:02 PM
#28
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It is not an interference fit when the parts can be slipped together. 100ft-lbs of torque is not enough to keep the races from moving sideways on the spindle. Hence, GM's use of an interference fit on the inner bearing races.
04-25-2016, 10:02 PM
#29
Drifting
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Based on experience, I believe a slip fit @ 100 ft.lb is not a problem. That's just my experience, anyone reading this should make their own decisions.
Obviously you can't go wrong with press fit.
Here is a copy of the 1963 tech bulletin.
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...ndle-1035.html
04-25-2016, 10:21 PM
#30
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LOL, those spindle were rolling inside the bearing race. When it's rolling the spindle is constantly moving to one side of the race. Why else do you think GM both increased the torque AND press fit the races?
Last edited by lionelhutz; 04-25-2016 at 10:23 PM.
05-10-2016, 04:52 PM
#31
Racer
[QUOTE=MN80Vette;1591825132]Our son, Matt, is a CNC machinist and has made MANY billet hub centric adapter-spacers for CF members. Adapter-spacers (3/8") for Boss wheels (4.5" backspace) are "standard", but he can make them for any brand wheel given the wheel hub ID.
PM'd you on the spacers.
Steve
PM'd you on the spacers.
Steve