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I am putting my 71 350 together. My son-in-law and I are trying to figure out what the heat riser below the exhaust manifold is for. I had one on my 65 Dodge 413 and all it did back then (that I could tell) was make funny noise. My son in law told me it robs horsepower and we should get rid of it. I told him I would check with the experts.
I am putting my 71 350 together. My son-in-law and I are trying to figure out what the heat riser below the exhaust manifold is for. I had one on my 65 Dodge 413 and all it did back then (that I could tell) was make funny noise. My son in law told me it robs horsepower and we should get rid of it. I told him I would check with the experts.
thank you.
Yzordderrex
The heat riser has a spring that keeps the flapper closed until the exhaust gasses heat the spring and allow the valve to open.
The closed valve forces hot exhaust gases under the intake manifold to make cold weather drivability easier.
When the engine reaches operating tempature, there is not a need for the hot gases under the intake. The spring on the heat riser allows the flapper valve to open.
I disconnected the spring on mine so it stays open all the time and I see no difference in cold weather driveability. In fact, it has to get pretty warm to open fully anyway. If you start your car and let it idle with a heat riser, you'll find that almost all the exhaust comes out the driver's side and almost none out the passenger side. Try it, see how long it takes to open, it probably never will at idle. You can either disconnect the spring so it drops down, or remove the plate, or replace it with a spacer that is commonly sold by auto parts stores and all Corvette vendors.
The only problem with removing or disabling it is if you are still running a divorced style hot air choke. The hot air through the intake manifold from the exhaust is what warms the choke as the passage is right below it and allows the choke to release faster than with no exhaust heat. You might have to lengthen the choke rod a bit.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Feb 7, 2016 at 03:40 PM.
I like to keep my cars as close to factory look and function as I can, but when I replaced the exhaust on my 1970, I replaced the valve with a spacer (and put the valve in a box). It's not necessary on a vehicle that is only driven in warm weather. My stock divorced choke mechanism works normally.
If you want it to look original, just cut the valve off the shaft inside the heat riser. It will look the same from the outside, but not freeze up and do damage to the engine (if you don't notice it is staying closed).
I guess that depends. If it's working properly and on a street driven engine not being pushed to the limit? Probably not. If it is seized in the closed position, it would likely have some impact.
Hi drs,
Here's the inside of the heat riser with the flapper in "cold start" position and in "normal operating temperature" position.
I'm not sure how the flapper "robs power" if the heat riser is operating properly.
Regards,
Alan
Cold Start
Operating Temperature (In this picture the flapper isn't open quite all the way because I really couldn't get the camera to see the flapper when it's fully open)