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I am having a problem with my 70 LT-1 hood hitting/rubbing the vacuum hose inlets on the headlight actuators.
Has anyone else had this problem and can recommend a fix?
Make sure you don't have a bunch of play in your hood hinges letting the hood move forward when you open it. If the headlight pods are not factory you may need to bend the pipe where the vacuum hoses connect in slightly closer to the pods, and away from the hood.
Hi c,
Just a thought…. are the headlight actuators a left and right… and are they on the correct side?
The pipe on the left side actuator points left and the right, right.
Also some of the reproduction vacuum hoses are quite thick and firm which causes them to 'stick out' some….. yours?
Regards,
Alan
Hi c,
Just a thought…. are the headlight actuators a left and right… and are they on the correct side?
The pipe on the left side actuator points left and the right, right.
Also some of the reproduction vacuum hoses are quite thick and firm which causes them to 'stick out' some….. yours?
Regards,
Alan
my hood comes close to the metal tubes too... Im curious about this also
Alan do you have a pic with the hood partially open, or fully open from the front of the car?
Hi R,
You really can't see the hose connections at the actuators with the hood open from the front, just from the engine compartment side.
There's about 3/4" to 1" clearance with the hood open and it increases as the hood is closed.
Regards,
Alan
Hi c,
The 'pipes' and hoses appear to be as I'd expect.
After looking at your pictures I'm thinking your hood appears to be opening further (bringing it closer to the pipes/hoses) than the one in my pictures.
Are you certain you have the correct hood support and it's installed at the surround/apron and underside of the hood as intended?
Regards,
Alan
There are shims that can be added under the hood hinge mounts. This will raise the front of the hood when opened and will allow it to clear the actuators. Here's an example:
Do you have a factory LT-1 hood or an aftermarket hood? That could be the difference.
You MIGHT be able to bend the inlet pipes a bit. BUT, you need to hold the pipe solidly near the joint to the actuator so that you don't put stress on that joint when you bend it.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 10, 2016 at 02:49 PM.
Do you have a factory LT-1 hood or an aftermarket hood? That could be the difference.
You MIGHT be able to bend the inlet pipes a bit. BUT, you need to hold the pipe solidly near the joint to the actuator so that you don't put stress on that joint when you bend it.
The is the original factory hood, the car was restored a few years ago. Maybe the shims would help.
Hi c,
I just checked that dimension on my hood support… 14 1/4"….; it's the original prop.
Shimming under the hood MAY help your clearance problem but won't it also change the fit, (alignment, not gap), between the front of the hood and the front of the surround?
Regards,
Alan
Has the car ever been in a frontal collision? When repaired, there may have been some 'relocation' of components or minor changes in frame/support locations.
If it were mine, I would hold the actuator inlet tube with a pair of pliers (where it joins with the actuator), and while holding it firmly use another pair of pliers to bend the outer end, so that the hose will clear the hood.
It's a little risky, but should work if you are careful.
Trying to manipulate the hood in the UP position, while trying to keep it aligned in the DOWN position, would be a TOTAL PITA.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 12, 2016 at 04:45 PM.