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I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
[QUOTE=Sayfoo;1591506945]I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.[/QUOTE
I'll keep tryin Sayfoo. The engine's on a stand, so I can turn it over fairly easily.
If you follow Lars' technique to install and time the distributor, the engine will fire immediately. No more "twist and shout" as you rotate the dissy trying to get the engine to fire.
Followed Lars' tutorial, and tweeked the pump shaft a bit as Jim suggested, and it went. Why this hadn't given me a problem in the past, I don't know. Dumb luck I guess.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Make sure if the No 1 cylinder is at TDC that the rotor has gone past the No 1 tower on the distributor cap. This will ensure you have some advance in it so starting is easier.
Last edited by MotorHead; Feb 8, 2016 at 07:05 PM.
Make sure if the No 1 cylinder is at TDC that the rotor has gone past the No 1 tower on the distributor cap. This will ensure you have some advance in it so starting is easier.
I think I understand ya MotorHead.
Right now, as the rotor sits in the picture, the Timing Mark on the Dampener is at 12 degrees BTDC. Turning that mark to TDC should turn the Distributor Rotor past it's tower (#1), per your suggestion.
I hate to say it, but you may want to remove the distributor before you install the motor. You don't want it to kiss the firewall.
On my '69 427/390, I did not have to remove the dist. I installed the engine and manual trans together.
But, I did have to remove 1 valve cover.
I would try it first with the dist. installed, then remove the cap if necessary, then take it out if necessary. All this only takes a few minutes.
I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
That technique is probably as old as Henry Ford. My Dad used to do lots of things that are not considered kosher today, but they work with the proper "touch". Of course, if my Dad were alive today, he'd be 109.
If I can move the lifting points inward from the outer engine ends, I might be able to leave it in during installation.
It's not a big deal to R&R anymore, now that I've done it. Just sort of a challenge now, to do it with the distributor in place. It's the spark plugs that will definitely be out when the engine goes in.
How a 454 can fit in there; that's beyond me. I'd love that challenge.
I like the non-stock distributor hold-down clamp. What brand is it?
Honestly Paul, I'm not sure. I have bought so many things, from so many vendors, that I just can't accurately recall. It might look cool, but the main thing is, IT BETTER HOLD and not slip. I've had an aftermarket hold-down clamp that did, and it had to go in the scrap bin a month later.
I can let you know after a few hundred miles.