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Distributor Not Fully Seating

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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 01:13 PM
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Default Distributor Not Fully Seating

I'm wondering if I bought the correct distributor.

Engine is a '73 L48.


Assembled correctly.


Pump Shaft positioned.


About a half inch from seating.


Any thoughts as to why?

TIA.
Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
I'm wondering if I bought the correct distributor.

Engine is a '73 L48.

Assembled correctly.

Pump Shaft positioned.

About a half inch from seating.

Any thoughts as to why?

TIA.
Steve
You're not getting it correctly engaged with the oil pump drive shaft. E-mail me for my "How to Install Your Distributor" article if you need info.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

Last edited by lars; Feb 8, 2016 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
You're not getting it correctly engaged with the oil pump drive shaft. E-mail me for my "How to Install Your Distributor" article if you need info.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
You know what Lars, I think I've got that bulletin of yours somewhere in my "Library". Thank you for reminding me.

Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 02:45 PM
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[QUOTE=Sayfoo;1591506945]I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.[/QUOTE

I'll keep tryin Sayfoo. The engine's on a stand, so I can turn it over fairly easily.

Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 04:49 PM
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Mine did that, reached down in there with a long screw driver and turned the oil pump shaft a tick.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 05:00 PM
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If you follow Lars' technique to install and time the distributor, the engine will fire immediately. No more "twist and shout" as you rotate the dissy trying to get the engine to fire.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 06:29 PM
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Got it in.







Followed Lars' tutorial, and tweeked the pump shaft a bit as Jim suggested, and it went. Why this hadn't given me a problem in the past, I don't know. Dumb luck I guess.

Thanks much folks.
Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Make sure if the No 1 cylinder is at TDC that the rotor has gone past the No 1 tower on the distributor cap. This will ensure you have some advance in it so starting is easier.

Last edited by MotorHead; Feb 8, 2016 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Make sure if the No 1 cylinder is at TDC that the rotor has gone past the No 1 tower on the distributor cap. This will ensure you have some advance in it so starting is easier.
I think I understand ya MotorHead.
Right now, as the rotor sits in the picture, the Timing Mark on the Dampener is at 12 degrees BTDC. Turning that mark to TDC should turn the Distributor Rotor past it's tower (#1), per your suggestion.

Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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I hate to say it, but you may want to remove the distributor before you install the motor. You don't want it to kiss the firewall.
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
I hate to say it, but you may want to remove the distributor before you install the motor. You don't want it to kiss the firewall.
Good Point.

Steve
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
I hate to say it, but you may want to remove the distributor before you install the motor. You don't want it to kiss the firewall.
On my '69 427/390, I did not have to remove the dist. I installed the engine and manual trans together.
But, I did have to remove 1 valve cover.
I would try it first with the dist. installed, then remove the cap if necessary, then take it out if necessary. All this only takes a few minutes.
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
I think the problem is the oil pump shaft. You need to rotate it a little with a screwdriver. It is sometimes takes a lot of trial and error.
There is a controversial way to get the dist. to drop in by bumping the starter once the dist. gear is into the cam gear. The dist. shaft will rotate and drop down when it reaches the correct orientation. Some swear by it and others are totally against it.
That technique is probably as old as Henry Ford. My Dad used to do lots of things that are not considered kosher today, but they work with the proper "touch". Of course, if my Dad were alive today, he'd be 109.

Last edited by MSGT-R; Feb 9, 2016 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 02:44 PM
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Sayfoo,

I have one of these levelers.


If I can move the lifting points inward from the outer engine ends, I might be able to leave it in during installation.

It's not a big deal to R&R anymore, now that I've done it. Just sort of a challenge now, to do it with the distributor in place. It's the spark plugs that will definitely be out when the engine goes in.

How a 454 can fit in there; that's beyond me. I'd love that challenge.

Steve
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 05:48 PM
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I like the non-stock distributor hold-down clamp. What brand is it?
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Sayfoo,
..How a 454 can fit in there; that's beyond me. I'd love that challenge.

Steve
You're a sick man!
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To Distributor Not Fully Seating

Old Feb 9, 2016 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
I like the non-stock distributor hold-down clamp. What brand is it?
Honestly Paul, I'm not sure. I have bought so many things, from so many vendors, that I just can't accurately recall. It might look cool, but the main thing is, IT BETTER HOLD and not slip. I've had an aftermarket hold-down clamp that did, and it had to go in the scrap bin a month later.
I can let you know after a few hundred miles.

Steve
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MSGT-R
You're a sick man!
You know me well Terri.
Ha! I'd need a hoist just to pull a head off one of those beasts.



I'd love it.

Steve
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 09:17 PM
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Do yourself a big favor and put some duct tape or something over the carb holes in the manifold while you work on the engine.

Dropping a nut or bolt down the intake is not a fun thing to do, nor is pulling the engine apart just after you get it dropped into place in your car.
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