Brass button in distributor
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,093
Likes: 297
From: Midlothian VA
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
We use them to rebuild the inner wall inside the distributor.
If you look inside you'll see a dimple like this.. that is where the hole is drilled for the new button.
Original distributors used a Teflon button I think starting in 1969 mid production so you could have one or the other style... Early didn't use the botton so there would not be a hole in the side. Late used the button so you'd have a hole where the arrow is pointing below. GM added a Teflon button to reduce the wear the side gear created in the side of the distributor housings. If your distributor doesn't have a hole in it then you'll have to add one.
After the hole is drilled we then put the distributor on our mill and mill out the thickness of the button and insert it into the distributor. This makes the wall thickness smooth and of the original height.
You can see the differences in the "Hole" / "No Hole" distributors below.
If you look inside you'll see a dimple like this.. that is where the hole is drilled for the new button.
Original distributors used a Teflon button I think starting in 1969 mid production so you could have one or the other style... Early didn't use the botton so there would not be a hole in the side. Late used the button so you'd have a hole where the arrow is pointing below. GM added a Teflon button to reduce the wear the side gear created in the side of the distributor housings. If your distributor doesn't have a hole in it then you'll have to add one.
After the hole is drilled we then put the distributor on our mill and mill out the thickness of the button and insert it into the distributor. This makes the wall thickness smooth and of the original height.
You can see the differences in the "Hole" / "No Hole" distributors below.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 8, 2016 at 09:39 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Your going to have more issues than just drilling the hole, you need to remove material (mill) from the inside of the housing so the button will recess flat to the wall of the distributor housing. Or drill the hole and then snap in a Teflon button, that might be your easiest way out. https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...n-62-74-teflon
These kits.. I don't think the manufacture has a clue how to install one and it's not that simple. You also need a driver tool for the bushings and a reamer to size the hole after the bushings are installed... again something I don't think you'll have. But if the bushing swedge down when you install them they'll be too tight for the shaft.
Willcox
These kits.. I don't think the manufacture has a clue how to install one and it's not that simple. You also need a driver tool for the bushings and a reamer to size the hole after the bushings are installed... again something I don't think you'll have. But if the bushing swedge down when you install them they'll be too tight for the shaft.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 9, 2016 at 12:05 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
I used a set screw as mentioned above. It was easy to do and the thrust movement adjustment was simple. I used a drop of red LocTite and staked the screw. Some will complain that metal particles will wear off the two pieces that contact and mar the bushings, but the same will happen with the brass button. No matter what technique is used, there is going to be wear.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Brass is relatively soft (compared to steel). As it wears, small brass particles will not cause wear to the worm gear. Steel particles will.
Maybe using an aircraft quality aluminum screw would get that job done. The screw idea is clever and simple.
Maybe using an aircraft quality aluminum screw would get that job done. The screw idea is clever and simple.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
I wasn't speaking of wear on the gears when I mentioned metal particles. The particles drop down into the distributor body and cause wear on the lower bushing and the main shaft.
Navigator
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
When you drilled your hole, did you drill the hole the size of the new brass button and also eliminate the old one stuck inside? Mine looks like the Wilcox photo pre drill. Seems stuck in there, not sure if that is just wear or intentional. Since I don't have mill, that is why I ask if you drilled the size the button is so it could be set in flush, backed by your set screw. Also, the brass end on my new gear has no hole in it, yet the old one does and I see new replacements have the hole. Is the hole for the brass button so slide into, seems to me, do I have a new gear that wont work with this process and get one with the hole at the end on back side of the gear? Hope someone is still around to answer. Thanks Update edit. Actually, I just tried seeing if the new brass button slid into the hole on the brass end of the old gear and is to big for that hole so new question, that prong on the button seems long, the old one still in that I assume needs to come out is almost flat, does that mean it is just completely worn down and the new one fits in just fine?
Last edited by cks; Jan 27, 2019 at 02:45 PM.