Lock knob frustration
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Lock **** frustration
Can somebody help me out with re installing these stupid lock *****? Took them off and now trying to get them on. I have read already you need to put the pin in it before you put it back on the door. Sounds easy but I can't get this stupid pin in. Anybody know a trick to this it would be great.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Model year? But likely to be 68-77. The ***** have lock clips and the generic auto parts places carry a tool for the installation of the clips. You can sometimes use a screw driver on the clips, but the tool is worth the money.
If memory serves, there is also a flat on the **** and lock which have to line up.
If memory serves, there is also a flat on the **** and lock which have to line up.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Feb 15, 2016 at 11:49 AM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,734
Likes: 2,582
if you mean the clip, the clip goes on the end of the **** with the serrations in the center. Then place the **** onto the lock shaft making sure you align the serrations in the center of the **** with the serrations on the door lock shaft.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Thanks for the help. I'll be going to see if I can get that tool.
Model year? But likely to be 68-77. The ***** have lock clips and the generic auto parts places carry a tool for the installation of the clips. You can sometimes use a screw driver on the clips, but the tool is worth the money.
If memory serves, there is also a flat on the **** and lock which have to line up.
If memory serves, there is also a flat on the **** and lock which have to line up.
Safety Car
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From: Madeira Beach, FL
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Marshal
Hi k,
The **** is held in place by the 'ears' on the clip.
The stud has a flat spot on it that faces the front of the car, the **** has a flat spot in it that corresponds to the stud so the **** can go on only one way….as M indicates.
The clip slides on the **** from the rear.
Once the clip is in place the **** gets pushed into place until the 'ear's 'set' on the stud. No tool is used.
The tool that is recommended to REMOVE the **** OFTEN scratches the **** or the bezel…. i don't use it. Once you know how the clip works a tiny screwdriver can be used to release it with out the chance of damaging the trim.
Regards,
Alan
Flat area on **** faces forward.
Clip ready to slide onto ****.
Clip it place on ****… ears ready to grab stud.
The **** is held in place by the 'ears' on the clip.
The stud has a flat spot on it that faces the front of the car, the **** has a flat spot in it that corresponds to the stud so the **** can go on only one way….as M indicates.
The clip slides on the **** from the rear.
Once the clip is in place the **** gets pushed into place until the 'ear's 'set' on the stud. No tool is used.
The tool that is recommended to REMOVE the **** OFTEN scratches the **** or the bezel…. i don't use it. Once you know how the clip works a tiny screwdriver can be used to release it with out the chance of damaging the trim.
Regards,
Alan
Flat area on **** faces forward.
Clip ready to slide onto ****.
Clip it place on ****… ears ready to grab stud.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
If your lucky, sometimes you can work a clean cloth (t-shirt material or something soft) behind the **** (window crank handles are the same) and "saw" the cloth back and forth a few times and it will catch the ends of the clip and pop it back enough for the handle to pop off
When I was fitting mine I tie a length of dental floss to the center of the loop and then you can pull it off easily. Some people leave about 6" of the floss and just wrap it around the handle until it tucks completely behind it. Then it's easy to fish it out when you do want to remove it.
Also, repro ***** also seem to have the slot too far back and they don't fit as snug against the door panel.
M
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 103
From: Centerville Louisiana
The tool I saw at my local AZ will not work the old ones were kinda bent the new ones aren't as far as I could tell but, they claim to aid in installing also insert clip in opposite end in a indent ion . I used screwdriver.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
I went though this before, and Alan's post above saved me then.
Once you get the clip in the ****, position the **** with the flats lined up and give it a tap with a rubber mallet. It will go on. Be patient. Once you get it to work once, it's much easier going forward.
Re: the removal tool - I also do not use it because of the potential for damage. I use a dental pick instead (the kind that can be bought at an auto parts store).
Once you get the clip in the ****, position the **** with the flats lined up and give it a tap with a rubber mallet. It will go on. Be patient. Once you get it to work once, it's much easier going forward.
Re: the removal tool - I also do not use it because of the potential for damage. I use a dental pick instead (the kind that can be bought at an auto parts store).
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
You need a tool to [more easily] remove the ****; but you don't need it to install the ****. And, no one has mentioned putting the little plastic 'rub' washer behind the ****. That washer will keep the backside of the **** from scratching up the paint on the plate.
Put the clip on the **** with the 'points' of the bent ends into those slots. Put the plastic washer over the serrated post. Then place the **** on the post while aligning the flats on the post and in the ****. Now just shove the heck out of it with the palm of your hand to seat it. If all is in place, the **** will pop on and those 'points' will engage in the undercut on the actuating shaft. The shaft DOES need to be fairly well centered in the hole on door panel for this to install nicely.
Put the clip on the **** with the 'points' of the bent ends into those slots. Put the plastic washer over the serrated post. Then place the **** on the post while aligning the flats on the post and in the ****. Now just shove the heck out of it with the palm of your hand to seat it. If all is in place, the **** will pop on and those 'points' will engage in the undercut on the actuating shaft. The shaft DOES need to be fairly well centered in the hole on door panel for this to install nicely.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,809
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From: Denver CO
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I use two hammers to do this.. .one rubber and one regular.
Once you have the **** with the clip in place aligned to the notch in the control, hold the **** in place with a rubber hammer and then hit it with the regular hammer.
It is about 99% effective on the first swing and will not damage the **** or the surrounding area of the door panel.
Willcox
Once you have the **** with the clip in place aligned to the notch in the control, hold the **** in place with a rubber hammer and then hit it with the regular hammer.
It is about 99% effective on the first swing and will not damage the **** or the surrounding area of the door panel.
Willcox
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Thanks for all the help. I must clearly be missing something. I have tried getting that clip to slide into the **** for a long time and it is not easy to get through that slit of the ****. It keeps buckling, bending and getting stuck. not all the way down. Like theres not enough room to get it to slide in.
Hi k,
The **** is held in place by the 'ears' on the clip.
The stud has a flat spot on it that faces the front of the car, the **** has a flat spot in it that corresponds to the stud so the **** can go on only one way….as M indicates.
The clip slides on the **** from the rear.
Once the clip is in place the **** gets pushed into place until the 'ear's 'set' on the stud. No tool is used.
The tool that is recommended to REMOVE the **** OFTEN scratches the **** or the bezel…. i don't use it. Once you know how the clip works a tiny screwdriver can be used to release it with out the chance of damaging the trim.
Regards,
Alan
Flat area on **** faces forward.
Clip ready to slide onto ****.
Clip it place on ****… ears ready to grab stud.
The **** is held in place by the 'ears' on the clip.
The stud has a flat spot on it that faces the front of the car, the **** has a flat spot in it that corresponds to the stud so the **** can go on only one way….as M indicates.
The clip slides on the **** from the rear.
Once the clip is in place the **** gets pushed into place until the 'ear's 'set' on the stud. No tool is used.
The tool that is recommended to REMOVE the **** OFTEN scratches the **** or the bezel…. i don't use it. Once you know how the clip works a tiny screwdriver can be used to release it with out the chance of damaging the trim.
Regards,
Alan
Flat area on **** faces forward.
Clip ready to slide onto ****.
Clip it place on ****… ears ready to grab stud.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
You can install the clip with either of two methods:
1.) Center the clip so that the 'points' are the same distance from each slot while putting light pressure on the 'head' of the clip. Now, push forcefully on the head to spread the clip and get the points into each slot.
2.) Put clip in place with one of the points in its slot. Stick a pencil, dowel, or your little finger in the opening from the shaft so that it pushes the engaged point outward, but still in the slot. Now, push on the 'head' to snap the other side into its slot.
Either of these methods seems intuitive to me, so it sort of explains why you're having so much difficulty. Maybe the best thing for you to do is "just do it." These vehicles are designed so that about any human being can build them (with some guidance as to how they get assembled/disassembled). Otherwise, they would have had to hire engineers to work on the assembly line. So, I'm sure you can do the work on your car. And, if the parts you are working with are metal, it's unlikely that you can break anything just using your hands.
1.) Center the clip so that the 'points' are the same distance from each slot while putting light pressure on the 'head' of the clip. Now, push forcefully on the head to spread the clip and get the points into each slot.
2.) Put clip in place with one of the points in its slot. Stick a pencil, dowel, or your little finger in the opening from the shaft so that it pushes the engaged point outward, but still in the slot. Now, push on the 'head' to snap the other side into its slot.
Either of these methods seems intuitive to me, so it sort of explains why you're having so much difficulty. Maybe the best thing for you to do is "just do it." These vehicles are designed so that about any human being can build them (with some guidance as to how they get assembled/disassembled). Otherwise, they would have had to hire engineers to work on the assembly line. So, I'm sure you can do the work on your car. And, if the parts you are working with are metal, it's unlikely that you can break anything just using your hands.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The new reproduction panels necessitate that you do this. There seems to be more spring in them so pushing inward is required while holding the **** with a rubber mallet. This allows you to install it without doing any damage.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
Door panel that is. I've seen many reproduction door panels that have an outward "bow" in them, causing the lock stem (since it's close to the center of the panel) to fall short of full extension beyond the panel. I've been successful in getting stem to extend by heating the plastic substrate and "re-forming" the bow out. I've also been successful in getting full extension by having a helper push the panel's bow in while I install the ****. In this case, I've used a non-marking rubber mallet to install.
Hope this helps