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Door Ajar Switch Replacement

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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 05:30 PM
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Default Door Ajar Switch Replacement

So I need, or want, to replace my door ajar switches (both sides). Alarm is not used. Car has a modern alarm system.
Driver side mounting plate is missing. Two questions:
1. Looks like the mounting plate pop rivets on the back side of the fiberglass structure. Yes/no? Any tips to doing this.
2. The wiring connections to the door switches look difficult to change over. Do they just pull out of the white plastic housing? Any tips to doing this? They look very fragile.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Hi K,
Remember the front and rear switches control both the door ajar warning light and courtesy lights in addition to the alarm. So if you want those to work you'll need to get all 4 of them operating.
The switch and connectors are available from various vendors and the new connectors can be crimped on to the ends of the existing wires.
Regards,
Alan



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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:22 PM
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Thanks Alan.
My front switches are working fine. No problems there although I might buy new ones anyway.
Do the switches come with new connectors? Most photos I see from vendors don't show the connectors with the switches.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 07:52 PM
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You buy the connectors separately. You can use the original connectors if you use a sharp thin tool or very small hobbyist's screw driver and slide it into the end cap and release the tab holding the connector. The tab is on the other side (not shown) of the connectors in Alan's pic and keeps the connector from sliding back out but it can be removed easily.

Last edited by CanadaGrant; Feb 28, 2016 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 10:48 PM
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Excellent write up. Thank you.
I'm a little confused about the grounding lug on the plate. Is this plate supposed to be grounded?
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 09:53 PM
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Can anyone else answer the question above? Does the switch mounting plate need to be grounded?
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 10:07 PM
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Yes! You have to ground the plate.
Pink brings 12 volts to the bulb and the blue supplies the ground, but the plate is mounted if fiberglass and that is why you need a separate ground.

http://www.vetteprojects.com/bmv/mis...tte%201972.pdf

Last edited by Peterbuilt; Mar 2, 2016 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 12:43 AM
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I don't think the plate was grounded from the factory or requires it. All the door ajar switch does is complete the ground from the warning light as the positive to the light is live at all times. Check the wiring diagram again. The ajar switch controls/completes the ground.

Last edited by CanadaGrant; Mar 3, 2016 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadaGrant
I don't think the plate was grounded from the factory or requires it. All the door ajar switch does is complete the ground from the warning light as the positive to the light is live at all times. Check the wiring diagram again. The ajar switch controls/completes the ground.
The switch is mounted on the plate but the plate is mounted on fiberglass and that is why you need a separate ground wire.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 12:38 PM
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I had to fix mine also I purchased the backing plate from Paragon and it was the right shape





This what it looks like with part of the inner fender removed. I am doing a body off so it was easy to access.

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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed T
Yes, the plate was indeed grounded at the factory. This tip was provided by Ernie from Willcox a few years ago. He had a pic of an original plate but it has now vanished. This was his description of the plate, " The third hole is for the ground wire and the screw was a slotted head screw".

Anyways 69FastFun's plate sure looks easier to work with and appears to have the hole pre drilled for the ground wire. Just looked at his vendors site at PN# 16095 and it looks identical to the one I had to shave down and solder a lug to.

Maybe 69FF can share his part #.
What year car is this? The switches on my 68 (which look like the switch in the picture in this post) simply complete the circuit for the ground and do not require the switch itself to be grounded. When the plunger on the switch is out- like when the door is open- the metal disc part of the switch touches the ends of the two wires together. The courtesy lights come on with the switch suspended in air, not touching anything.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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The courtesy light switches are up front and screwed into the metal door frame so they do not need a separate ground wire.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadaGrant
I don't think the plate was grounded from the factory or requires it. All the door ajar switch does is complete the ground from the warning light as the positive to the light is live at all times. Check the wiring diagram again. The ajar switch controls/completes the ground.


This is correct, this is how it is on my car. Maybe later C3's are different. The rear pin switches have 3 wires:

-black for ground reference
-blue for ground to door ajar light
-white for ground to alarm relay

When the door is opened, the switch contacts close together and connect all 3 wires together. Early C3's without the factory alarm system only have 2 wires, the black and blue, as Alan71's pic shows.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:43 AM
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Wow, some conflicting opinions on this thread!! I guess I'll have to open up behind the switch and see just what's in there. My passenger side looks intact and should provide the answers.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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My original switch plate was not grounded but I decided to put a ground wire on. If you look at my original plate in my photo it was rusty and no ground and no extra hole.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 69FASTFUN
My original switch plate was not grounded but I decided to put a ground wire on. If you look at my original plate in my photo it was rusty and no ground and no extra hole.
That's what I was trying to get across. There are 2 wires going TO the ajar switch ( 1 on older cars like 68-69). One is the negative or ground wire from the ajar light. The second is, in the later cars the negative or ground wire from the alarm. (In early cars the alarm wire, if you had an alarm is run off the front courtesy light switch.) The third wire is the negative or ground wire going FROM the switch to a common ground on the frame. When the door is opened the switch closes completing the negative connection to the ground. The mounting plate is for structual integrity and is not grounded as you already have the ground wire running FROM the switch. GM did this so they wouldn't have to run ground wires from every piece of metal in the car or try and find the fault when one broke or corroded.
Look at the wiring diagram posted above. Follow the door ajar switch wiring. The switch provides the connection for the negative wire(s) to the ground wire. It does not ground out through the switch body or mounting plate. A ground wire from the mounting plate does not benefit anything.

Last edited by CanadaGrant; Mar 4, 2016 at 12:25 PM.
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