Buzzer Wiring? (1972)
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Buzzer Wiring? (1972)
Hi and Help, I posted this in C3 General and have had no response so I'm trying my luck with you guys.
I know a lot are not interested in Key Buzzers but mine came with it so I want to make it work. Today I dismantled the column down to the Signal Switch and NO Buzzer Switch for the ignition key. I then set out to at least be sure that all connections were working when I was confronted with this puzzle. Pink/Black and Pink wires at the Signal Switch which are supposedly triggered by the courtesy light on the drivers side which in my case are White and Black. WHERE does the Pink/Black wire go for an earth?? ... A continuity test has been done and I have nothing, which leads me to think there may be other wiring diagrams that show the Pink/Black and Pink combination and where they might route to.
Any qualified Experience on this one ... Please?, and Thanks in advance.
PS I have read Jim Shea's but he mentions a Black wire which goes to the courtesy light!
I know a lot are not interested in Key Buzzers but mine came with it so I want to make it work. Today I dismantled the column down to the Signal Switch and NO Buzzer Switch for the ignition key. I then set out to at least be sure that all connections were working when I was confronted with this puzzle. Pink/Black and Pink wires at the Signal Switch which are supposedly triggered by the courtesy light on the drivers side which in my case are White and Black. WHERE does the Pink/Black wire go for an earth?? ... A continuity test has been done and I have nothing, which leads me to think there may be other wiring diagrams that show the Pink/Black and Pink combination and where they might route to.
Any qualified Experience on this one ... Please?, and Thanks in advance.
PS I have read Jim Shea's but he mentions a Black wire which goes to the courtesy light!
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The PINK wire completes the circuit when the key is in the ignition...and the white tab is being forced DOWN onto the push in switch inside your column that goes in after you have your turn signal switch mounted in place.
SO...the ground is coming from the black wire when it gets grounded.
I do not have my wiring diagram here at home...but this is an easy circuit.
DUB
SO...the ground is coming from the black wire when it gets grounded.
I do not have my wiring diagram here at home...but this is an easy circuit.
DUB
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Here's a schematic and other information from Jim Shea's papers.
See "F"
You need the key in the ignition and the door to be open to hear the buzzer.
See "F"
You need the key in the ignition and the door to be open to hear the buzzer.
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From: Australia
this should be easy, so without the switch which has been removed, would you agree that if I jump the two contacts (higher and lower) on the back of the turn switch that the buzzer in the dash would sound?? I can make it sound by earthing the lower (Pink) wire anywhere I like, but the Pink/Black wire (column) has no continuity to the Black earth of the drivers courtesy. Where does it go???
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Hi Peterbuilt and Thanks for the reply.
I do not have a clue, but studying your wires to the ignition switch on the Horn Relay/Key Buzzer Schematic (Pink/Black and Black) and your 1969-82 C3 Corvette Turn Signal Switch Wires. Would it be fair to say that it might be early C3 as my Ignition Switch is not on the Body Harness??
... AND as if I'm not confused, have a look at my Jim Shea papers comparing 'F' and 'E" with yours!
I know one think for sure about 1972, the key buzzer is above the tach as I have heard it.
I do not have a clue, but studying your wires to the ignition switch on the Horn Relay/Key Buzzer Schematic (Pink/Black and Black) and your 1969-82 C3 Corvette Turn Signal Switch Wires. Would it be fair to say that it might be early C3 as my Ignition Switch is not on the Body Harness??
... AND as if I'm not confused, have a look at my Jim Shea papers comparing 'F' and 'E" with yours!
I know one think for sure about 1972, the key buzzer is above the tach as I have heard it.
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I looked at the Limited Lectric wiring schematic at work today and YES....from what it shows...is a WHITE WIRE coming off the brake switch. that goes to the buzzer.
And the BLACK WIRE is attached to your LEFT DOOR JAMB SWITCH and goes to your turn signal switch....and the PINK/BLACK wire then goes to the buzzer to supply the ground to make the buzzer work.
ONLY 2 wires went to the buzzer in the Limited Lectric schematic.
YES...the buzzer is taped to the wiring harness above the speedo/tach.
DUB
And the BLACK WIRE is attached to your LEFT DOOR JAMB SWITCH and goes to your turn signal switch....and the PINK/BLACK wire then goes to the buzzer to supply the ground to make the buzzer work.
ONLY 2 wires went to the buzzer in the Limited Lectric schematic.
YES...the buzzer is taped to the wiring harness above the speedo/tach.
DUB
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From: Australia
I looked at the Limited Lectric wiring schematic at work today and YES....from what it shows...is a WHITE WIRE coming off the brake switch. that goes to the buzzer.
And the BLACK WIRE is attached to your LEFT DOOR JAMB SWITCH and goes to your turn signal switch....and the PINK/BLACK wire then goes to the buzzer to supply the ground to make the buzzer work.
ONLY 2 wires went to the buzzer in the Limited Lectric schematic.
YES...the buzzer is taped to the wiring harness above the speedo/tach.
DUB
And the BLACK WIRE is attached to your LEFT DOOR JAMB SWITCH and goes to your turn signal switch....and the PINK/BLACK wire then goes to the buzzer to supply the ground to make the buzzer work.
ONLY 2 wires went to the buzzer in the Limited Lectric schematic.
YES...the buzzer is taped to the wiring harness above the speedo/tach.
DUB
On receiving your reply I raced into the garage with fresh hopes. That was the secret my friend as you can see in the wiring schematic that I have above, Orange and Pink/Black are the two wires that go to the buzzer and probably from a later C3. Now you have pointed out that Orange should be White it makes sense that the courtesy lights and key buzzer get their power from that wire and actually earth off the body. I was always in the mindset that the left courtesy got its earth from the black wire (fibre glass car), and was part of a circuit as the passenger switch only has a single white wire. SO ... my theory ... the black wire from the door to the 'harmonica' at some stage was pinched/broken and created a false earth which could have been intermittent or just going off and sending the previous owner nuts.
I jumped a wire from the Black 'harmonica' chasis side to the door switch and then put a srewdriver across both the higher and lower contacts behind the signal switch and my Key Buzzer said, Hello!
Last edited by OZvette72; Mar 4, 2016 at 07:05 PM.
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SO...ALL I would check right now is to make sure that the BLACK wire that goes to the door jamb switch.....and the other end that is IN your turn signal switch show continuity....and obviously the turn signal switch has to be connected to the dash wiring.
DUB
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YES...BUT...if on your previous photo....you show that the BLACK and WHITE wire that go to your DOOR JAMB switch are not installed in the switch.....SO...you would not get a GROUND due to it is not connected.
SO...ALL I would check right now is to make sure that the BLACK wire that goes to the door jamb switch.....and the other end that is IN your turn signal switch show continuity....and obviously the turn signal switch has to be connected to the dash wiring.
DUB
SO...ALL I would check right now is to make sure that the BLACK wire that goes to the door jamb switch.....and the other end that is IN your turn signal switch show continuity....and obviously the turn signal switch has to be connected to the dash wiring.
DUB
Thanks a lot DUB
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http://www.chevelles.com/forums/27-e...tch-buy-2.html
A fellow on here talks about his buzzer only stopping when he slams the door, which got me thinking that the earth at the switch was not happening all the time.
I went into the garage and pulled that courtesy switch out of the door frame and then did a continuity, and guess what, perfect!!!
A courtesy switch with two flat contacts is on its way and Thank God I didn't do a Bubba to my little girl.
Last edited by OZvette72; Mar 5, 2016 at 05:02 AM. Reason: Add Image
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JUST BE AWARE...that when you get the new jamb switch...and HOPEFULLY it does not happen to you. But I have found that these reproduction jamb switches that take the long thin terminals that clip INTO it...MAY CAGE and seem FINE. But will push them selves out after a few cycles of the switch. I have about 8 of them at my shop that are not work crap and the terminals will lock in place...but pop out and make the jamb switch WORTHLESS.
SO...just be aware. And with your kick plate off...you might want to climb in the car and when you close the door watch the function of the switch on the CONTACT SIDE where the door hits it and MAKE SURE that you do not have it set too far OUT. Becasue if you look at the jamb switch ..there is specific amount of movement the switch can work within. Because if you set it too far out and the door closes....the end of the jamb switch will bottom out on the tubular housing and begin to push the tubular housing that the plunger comes out of...which is the BEGINNING TO THE END of the jamb switch....if NOT ruined already. And then also watch the terminals when the door closes.
This is why I switch to the later design of jamb switches that do not use the long thin terminals....and wire in new terminals.
DUB
SO...just be aware. And with your kick plate off...you might want to climb in the car and when you close the door watch the function of the switch on the CONTACT SIDE where the door hits it and MAKE SURE that you do not have it set too far OUT. Becasue if you look at the jamb switch ..there is specific amount of movement the switch can work within. Because if you set it too far out and the door closes....the end of the jamb switch will bottom out on the tubular housing and begin to push the tubular housing that the plunger comes out of...which is the BEGINNING TO THE END of the jamb switch....if NOT ruined already. And then also watch the terminals when the door closes.
This is why I switch to the later design of jamb switches that do not use the long thin terminals....and wire in new terminals.
DUB
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JUST BE AWARE...that when you get the new jamb switch...and HOPEFULLY it does not happen to you. But I have found that these reproduction jamb switches that take the long thin terminals that clip INTO it...MAY CAGE and seem FINE. But will push them selves out after a few cycles of the switch. I have about 8 of them at my shop that are not work crap and the terminals will lock in place...but pop out and make the jamb switch WORTHLESS.
I'm hearing Ya, and by your description I have a feeling you might not be referring to this type of switch and if that is the case, your thoughts on this type?? With regard to the install I have this thread online at the moment showing how I did it. I am thinking it might be a good idea to have it amended and put the best switch that you recommend for the job in its place.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...an-option.html
PS Which Buzzer Switch do you recommend, is there a good and bad??
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The one in the link you posted are the type that I have run into problems with...and I failed to mention that often times I need to buy and replace the terminals to get them to work.
You can use the one in the photo as long as it has the correct shoulder length of the tube of the switch where the plunger moves. Just be aware that the spade terminals are smaller than normal terminals used in the car. And when you clip them on...make sure you put them on so you can go inside the small hole in the flat blade terminal of the switch itself with a pointed tool and aid in releasing the terminal when you go to pull it off.
I use this type when I can find the correct wring harness connector to fit it. It allows 3 wires....if I need another wire for a control ground.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/78-82-lh...am-switch.html
I like this design due to having a plastic tip...and is like the one in the photo you posted.
http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/i...pg&h=369&w=369
DUB
You can use the one in the photo as long as it has the correct shoulder length of the tube of the switch where the plunger moves. Just be aware that the spade terminals are smaller than normal terminals used in the car. And when you clip them on...make sure you put them on so you can go inside the small hole in the flat blade terminal of the switch itself with a pointed tool and aid in releasing the terminal when you go to pull it off.
I use this type when I can find the correct wring harness connector to fit it. It allows 3 wires....if I need another wire for a control ground.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/78-82-lh...am-switch.html
I like this design due to having a plastic tip...and is like the one in the photo you posted.
http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/i...pg&h=369&w=369
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Mar 6, 2016 at 06:02 PM.
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The one in the link you posted are the type that I have run into problems with ... You can use the one in the photo as long as it has the correct shoulder length of the tube of the switch where the plunger moves. Just be aware that the spade terminals are smaller than normal terminals used in the car. And when you clip them on ... make sure you put them on so you can go inside the small hole in the flat blade terminal of the switch itself with a pointed tool and aid in releasing the terminal when you go to pull it off.
I use this type when I can find the correct wring harness connector to fit it. It allows 3 wires ... if I need another wire for a control ground.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/78-82-lh...am-switch.html
I like this design due to having a plastic tip ... and is like the one in the photo you posted.
http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/i...pg&h=369&w=369DUB
I use this type when I can find the correct wring harness connector to fit it. It allows 3 wires ... if I need another wire for a control ground.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/78-82-lh...am-switch.html
I like this design due to having a plastic tip ... and is like the one in the photo you posted.
http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/i...pg&h=369&w=369DUB
All great advice and experience DUB and Thanks for taking the time. Regards Allan
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I try to do my best to help and thanks for your comment.
WELL actually...if you really want to get technical about it. You can check it without taking the steering wheel off and the turn signal out....and actually pin point where the problem is at...or problems.
Quite simple with an ohmmeter....as you have found to be a very useful tool.
DUB
WELL actually...if you really want to get technical about it. You can check it without taking the steering wheel off and the turn signal out....and actually pin point where the problem is at...or problems.
Quite simple with an ohmmeter....as you have found to be a very useful tool.
DUB