X2 correct

 

Yes its too shallow, checking with the new gear. I also added the slot on the shaft to add more oil. But for now will run as is and check after couple months. This is a weekend cruiser only. Hopefully the new Everwear gear, as recommended by Lunati, will hold up better.

 

Suit yourself, but adding a slip collar is a piece of cake and you can then set it up correctly and not need to worry about it.

 

Set up right it will last indefinitely

 

Five to eight thousandths endplay. Add whats off the deck and heads and divide by two should get you in the ball park on installed height. Ran a bronse gear in a many street motors. Changed once a year for insurance. All the ones I replaced would have ran further. This was before the polymer gear came out. Just food for thought I run a light weight bronse tipped fuel pump pushrod also. The engine I ran was shifted at 7800 rpm. I had fuel pump rod float at hight rpms hense the light weight rod.Might be something to check out.

 

Morroso makes a dizzy height or depth checker tool. It is a smart thing to have when you are changing to aftermarket heads and intakes

 

Linky: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ion-practices/

 

Easy if you have access to a mill or lathe...

 

A local machine shop can turn that shoulder off in 5 minutes and shouldn't charge more than $20. It doesn't require any special tooling.

 

I agree here.....I have also used the Comp Composite fiber ones with much success as well.

This is also a big reason I do not use HV pumps in a street engine.....
They are completely unnecessary......70 psi cold is a LOT.

Spin a primer on a 20v DeWalt drill with a stock non HV pump.....listen to it drag....now imagine that at 6000+ rpm...the average peak of most street engines......it is substantial.

It takes 7 horsepower to run a shaft in a sbc with a HV with 20w50 oil and .002 bearing clearance......it takes 4 with a stock pump.
Most garage builder including myself find it difficult to get .003. You have to use a X bearing in most cases and they are about 5 times the price of a STD. bearing.
A sbc modified stock pump will over oil a stock sbc block anyhoo.....the orifice off of the rear cam journal is too small for a HV pump to utilize....
When building a serious drag or oval track engine.....set clearances at .003 or slightly larger and run the HV....but make sure to drill the block passages....the cam cross oiler and the two next to the cam galley.....
HV pumps have their place...but the engine must be built with it in mind.
Even SBC Bowtie blocks that were non CNC from GM have to be drilled....and we learned that the hard way.
Dart and World fixed this with priority main oiling systems.....and those blocks are great on the street as the HV is not pushing a cork if the mains are set correctly.

Sorry for the TMI.....just sharing what I learned from success and mistakes.....

Good luck on the gear installation and I hope the cam is OK.

Jebby

 

Hey, never too much info, for me or others following this thread!

Being I am in FL (it hit 88 yesterday!) the oil thins out fast during warm up and stabilizes at 45-50, lower at idle. That's with 10-30. I'll be checking the dizzy gear (recommended by Lunati) after a while.

This engine has no leaks or weird noises, and pulls strong. Its been too long since I've had a FUN vette to DRIVE, so time to tear down and inspect will come later.

 

MSD has been sold multiple times. It is not the same company it use to be. Distributor gear failure is a huge issue these days in the performance market. Morel use to make distributor gears for several distributor companies here in the USA. ATK is one of my customers and we ship them gears on a monthly basis as they are replacing the gears on brand new distributors with new Morel gears. A distributor gear made in China is less then $2.

 

Yup

My msd was bought over 6 yrs ago took it in to get curved
The bushings/bearings were sloppy along with everything else so basically a full rebuild. I worry about the box holding up.

One day Ill be switching to a good known HEI and call it a good

 

There are two issues going on with that dist. gear: it is MUCH softer than the hardened gear on the cam; and, the size (P.D. diameter) was probably too large. It wore that gear surface because it was too soft, and it wore deeply because it was likely too large.

You need to buy a good quality steel gear that was hardened, but not as hard as the cam gear. I guess it is also possible that the drive gear on the cam was too large...but I hope not, since you can't easily change it. Once you change the gear and install it, lift the dizzy up and down just a bit (still keeping the lower pilot engaged in its bore) to feel if the fit is tight or not. If it feels tight, the cam gear is probably a bit too large. You won't be able to do anything about it, but you can be aware of the situation.

 

Bashcraft is correct a melonized gear will fix the problem. Or grab a gear off of a 1996 to 1998 pick up

 

I was taught years ago to drop dist in before tightening intake as it can be a little off and side load the gear also ??
good luck
Wes