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pull spark plug nr 1 , try to find tds and set a mark on the damper . then set timing . rubber in the damper may have slipp ! take it for a spinn .......... still bad running ... pull of the wacuum to the egr solioid and block it on the tb . tighten bolts on tb .new start ......
Last edited by corvettenorway; 04-28-2016 at 12:44 PM.
Will try and replace o2 then c what happens also when i changed my fuel pump and sending unit the gauge was always on empty now gauges is stuck on pass full did ininstall it wrong
Update changed all wires changed o2sensor tried putting it on code reader no codes came up will double check timing again soon is this right foring order
Are you trying to tune your car using the factory tach ? they can be very inaccurate. Use an external tach source such as one on a timing light. My car had the high idle condition and would want to stall at 750rpm. My tach doesn't read correctly. I set the timing and set the idle with a tach on my timing light, runs perfect. My idle is set at 750 but my dash tach read 1000-1100. Could be part of your issue.
[QUOTE=usmilret;1591857262]Lancer I would start isolating any and all vacuum leaks.I have a 1982 that had the same problem.[/QUOTE
Having a defective ECM and/or prom (chip) will cause your exact drivability issues because it is going into safe mode to enable you to get home. When the processor is not reading the calibration chip it will idle very high and start to stall when you try to accelerate. You can see the excess fuel being dumped by the injectors, again its strategy to get you home. However, you should get a code 53 for a defective ECM or a code 51 for a defective prom. If you are getting absolutely no codes as you noted, not even the "1-2" codes, your chip is improperly installed and/or your ECM is cooked (particularly if somebody installed the chip upside down). A properly installed chip - which is easily accessible on the ECM's prom access panel with only the car battery removed - will at least throw the "1-2" codes. If you think this is a possibility, you can buy a reman ECM from several sources and a HyperTech "Street Runner" replacement chip/prom. it is significantly improved vs the stock chip/prom. Just make sure to properly install the new chip with its notch facing right, toward the driver's side fender when you install it in your remanned ECM. Again, this does not explain the headlights/vacuum symptom, and only applies if you are actually getting no codes as you described. If you have the ECM out (use a mirror to locate the upper bolts), consider replacing the spark controller and fuel pump relay, which are otherwise inaccessible, as a precautionary measure - and, BTW a defective spark controller will cause the identical safe mode (LOS - "Limited Operation Strategy" in OE-speak)' issue - and, which also throws its own specific code. After I did the above and replaced the headlight hoses and all distributor ignition parts, mine runs like it's a new 1982. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Lakeside49; 05-01-2016 at 09:31 AM.
I will check ecm one code reader nothing come out but if i watch the check engine light it will throw code 12 also i have tryed blocking pff main vaccums and shooting carb cleaner couldnt fine leak on mainfold
I pulled ecm goin to order new one but is this right one and i beilve it has a chip also can someone tell me what black box is
The black box behind the ECM is the Electronic Spark Controller (ESC). I found a new old stock item on eBay for $80 and replaced it, along with the fuel pump relay that you see mounted to the back wall. The ESC can cause the same stall-out issue so I just went for it while the patient was on the table.
Regarding your ECM, they are still widely available and with up-to-date electronics. They will want your old one back for core credit. Regarding the chip, your prior owner has already been in there. You have a HyperTech chip and not the OEM chip. I replaced mine with the HyperTech "Street Runner". Just make sure that you install the new chip with the notch in the chip facing toward the driver's side fender. It will toast your ECM and chip if you install it with the notch in the chip facing toward the passenger side while looking down from above as installed. (BTW, I used quality Velcro to remount my ECM and ESC to the black mounting plate instead of all those screws, which worked well).
There is no guarantee that these (3) items will correct your condition as it did mine. Because it would seem you should be getting applicable codes unless your existing HyperTech chip is throwing off the ECM.
See above response
Last edited by Lakeside49; 05-07-2016 at 08:19 AM.
By the way, you probably realize that your ECM is also non-original based on the non-original "ECM" label. So, something is going on there - they usually don't fail.
Last edited by Lakeside49; 05-08-2016 at 11:40 AM.
04-28-2016, 12:59 AM
