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I want to replace the dims with two wire LED. The stock sealed beam dims are a three prong with two grounds. Black and Green. When I hooked up the LED they go out when I turned on the brights.
1979 has 5 wires to the dim 3 prong. Two green, two black, white for power. I just wanted to use the existing head light wires. Green ground side and power turn on my new light
if I ground with the black side the brights glow a little like it is getting a few volts.
If I flip my switch to brights the bright sealed beams come on and the dim bulbs go out
So your simple wiring diagram is not relevant to 79
1979 has 5 wires to the dim 3 prong. Two green, two black, white for power. I just wanted to use the existing head light wires. Green ground side and power turn on my new light
if I ground with the black side the brights glow a little like it is getting a few volts.
If I flip my switch to brights the bright sealed beams come on and the dim bulbs go out
So your simple wiring diagram is not relevant to 79
Ummm- it is relevant to a 79. You'll have to add the relays near the headlights...Basically you are taking a lighting system that had 6 lights (each low beam has two bulbs and the highs have one each) and now have 4 lights-and wanting them to operate the same...
Another option-You could also diode isolate the low beams-
I guess that i worded this wrong. If the stock head light work fine. dims=just dims and brights = all 4 head lights How would you attach a two wire LED instead of using the the existing dim 3 wire plug?
I'm thinking that i need to tie the grounds together and it would get power when I switch to brights. If it works stock why would I have some feed over to the brights. I can see how a diode being added would work
The stock headlights have both high and low filaments in the 'low beam' light. Your low beams do go out in the standard setup, and the high beam filament is lit in the headlight that also has the low beam in it.
Thanks everyone.......... I bought 55 watt driving LED lights with lots of Lumins So bright white. I'm going to run them just on the dim side and just have super lighting compared to my brightest halogen. What hurt me was the reset square headlights behind plexi glass. It was a weight thing that hurt me for lighting
Hope you're using proper headlight LEDs, otherwise your light will be worse to see by (more light directly in front of the vehicle, which feels like better light but makes your pupils contract so that you can't see as far in the distance) and/or be blinding to other drivers. Jw speaker make some brilliant led headlights, and trucklite make some decent ones too. Pretty sure both have high and low beam. Replacing headlights, particularly low beam, with a light that's not a high quality name brand light is probably not a good idea if it's good lights you're interested in. Most of the cheaper lights have terrible beams to drive by. Have a read on Daniel Stern Lighting or on the candle power forums if you're interested. I plan a set of JW Speaker LED high/lows and a set of Cibie high beams in the near future. Daniel Stern also seems to have about the best pricing around if you email him. No affiliation, just a happy customer.
Without knowing more about them, I'd guess those throw a heap of light up close and don't do a lot for your distance vision, particularly mounted in the lower grill. I hope they're not the ones you're talking about using as low beam, because I'm sure they'd create lots of glare for other drivers. Got a link?
Last edited by Metalhead140; May 8, 2016 at 04:20 AM.
Those must be very annoying to the oncoming traffic....
You need a light with a properly directed beam to use for always on driving lights or as low beams, not offroad spot or flood lights. I suggest you do some research and pick a proper lighting package.
Running "low beam" lighting that lights up more roan than than the high beams on most cars IS NOT "low beam" lighting. A few weeks ago I ran across a truck running a light bar built like that and it was so bright the headlights looked about as bright as marker lights. That one is making me seriously considering a couple of 100W LED spot lights to blind back.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by lionelhutz
Those must be very annoying to the oncoming traffic....
You need a light with a properly directed beam to use for always on driving lights or as low beams, not offroad spot or flood lights. I suggest you do some research and pick a proper lighting package.
Running "low beam" lighting that lights up more roan than than the high beams on most cars IS NOT "low beam" lighting. A few weeks ago I ran across a truck running a light bar built like that and it was so bright the headlights looked about as bright as marker lights. That one is making me seriously considering a couple of 100W LED spot lights to blind back.
That's why I installed AirCraft landing lights for my high beams
George you can't wire LED's the same way as normal lights. Led's works off current ( amps ) while normal headlights work of voltage. You need some kind of kit to power the LED's.
George you can't wire LED's the same way as normal lights. Led's works off current ( amps ) while normal headlights work of voltage. You need some kind of kit to power the LED's.
This is totally NOT TRUE. As long a the LEDs are for 12v operation they will be OK. And because they usually draw less amps, existing wiring will be fine too.
This is totally NOT TRUE. As long a the LEDs are for 12v operation they will be OK. And because they usually draw less amps, existing wiring will be fine too.
I agree.... The issue in newer vehicles is that the leds actually dont draw ENOUGH amp current and this is why normal 12v flashers dont work correctly with led marker lights... not enough load... I actually ran across the same issue recently with my household dimmers when converting all my household lighting to leds... (save about $50 a month though since the metal halides in my reef tank were 650w and now the leds only draw a small percentage of that.)
I also have a lifted pickup which has HID headlights... really had to adjust them to point lower even though they are the correct projector style enclosures for the type of bulb im running... I was blinding people at fisrt until adjusting lower due to the height and because they are just brighter than normal old school halogens...
The issue is that the newer cars are all coming with these blinding bright hid and led lights from the factory now so your pupils are already contracted if you drive near any oncoming traffic... Especially the higher end luxury cars with the prestigious "Look at me I'm important!!" led marker lights and HID bulbs.
I cant see squat with my stock 74 c3 lighting due to this and plan on upgrading myself to projector lights (properly aimed away from oncoming traffic)
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 9, 2016 at 09:00 AM.
That's why I installed AirCraft landing lights for my high beams
George you can't wire LED's the same way as normal lights. Led's works off current ( amps ) while normal headlights work of voltage. You need some kind of kit to power the LED's.
How did you get the A?C landing lights focused. Mine lights everything forward of the car, 30' either side of the road and too far up and out. They do intimidate the aproaching non dimmers. Too much light!
There are no legal 5.75" hid housings to the best of my knowledge, the only legal option would be adapting Hella 90mm lights to suit. The jw speaker led headlights offer better high/low than any halogen and equal to hid, though they're pricey, ~$250ea. They'll last forever though... A set of Cibie high beams with good bulbs fed by relays and good wiring will give you high beams as good or better than most large driving lights. You could combine these with a decent set of dedicated low beam halogens for very good lighting, or the jw speaker leds for lighting equal to anything on the road. That's my plan - I do a lot of driving at night, and on the empty unlit country roads around here I want to be able to see the kangaroo before it makes awful mess of the car and potentially me as well!
There are no legal 5.75" hid housings to the best of my knowledge,
There are legal housings, theres no reason they have to be 5.75"in our c3 cars... Its extremly easy to retrofit a wide variety of sizes of housings.... They come OEM equipment on many new cars... Even the correct dot approved projector style made for HID headlight bulbs are not technically legal for retrofitting in non oem applications because of politics and financial costs.. Nothing more as far as I can understand... In any case, its silly to talk about legality of a law thats simply not enforced by anyone.. Thats like removing emissions hardware from your c3 which if im not mistaken is against federal law... How many here have done it to some extent? unless you live in a socialist state like California its a non issue.
I would think the important point should be whether the headlight system is implemented correctly in the same fashion as the oem counterparts coming on the higher end automobiles and real world experiences or problems with them right?
LEDS DO NOT LAST FOREVER, They do fail and more often the voltage converters supplies fail...I have already had to replace many of the individual leds in my reef tank arrays that fail. Heat is one of the larger killers of them. In an array like our headlights if a few leds fail it alters the voltage to the rest and causes more to overheat and fail.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 10, 2016 at 09:21 AM.
As I said, the hella Modules are legal as they are self contained with lens, provided you don't put any other lens in front of them. Retrofitting a complete headlight assembly is too, but likely to be difficult. Retrofitting projector units behind a different lens to that originally used (I.e. Not using the complete headlight assembly) isn't,and not for reasons of money, but because you have uncontrolled changes in the optics by having changes the lens. However, I'll accept that you're likely to get a far better result than for most of the other illegal options.
You're right, of course leds don't strictly last forever, but as you also say, it's normally the associated electronics that fail rather than the leds themselves, which last a very very long time. With good high quality electronics to drive them, there's no reason that leds shouldn't last effectively forever, particularly compared to halogens or hids. The problem is that most cheap led lights use cheap electronics.
You had me curious (after all, I'm planning to drop a lot of money on these shortly) so I just googled "jw speaker failure" and "jw speaker led problem". On the first 5 pages of google results there wasn't a single result that didn't turn out to be a wiring issue with the car or bike (though their was one where the op never came back to troubleshoot and report what the problem was). These have been on the market a few years and are factory fitted and optional on Harleys so I think their failure rate must be pretty low.