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Please help, I'm a little confused. I took the alternator from my basket case, '69 427/435 into the local auto electric shop to have it checked out. I got a call from them about an hour later and asking if I was aware that it was externally regulated like this was something that was unexpected. I'm almost certain it's the unit that came off the car when it was last running but, I've also read on this forum that '68 was the last year for external regulators on Corvettes. The car's trim tag shows "F16" which I believe means a build date of January 16 1969.
Shortly after I purchased my '70, new, the alternator failed. Actually it was the internal regulator. At that time there were no replacement regulators available. Apparently there was a very high failure rate of the regulators at that time.
Under warranty, the dealer installed an external regulator. After several months, I was advised by the dealer to come in and have my alternator converted back to an internal regulator.
Yours may have had the same problem years ago and never got converted back.
Yours may have had the same problem years ago and never got converted back.
That's a definite possibility Barry. The auto electric guy said there was a place in the alternator housing for a regulator but it just wasn't there. I wish there was more of the wiring harness left intact that might confirm this theory.
If the wiring is that messed up I would buy a new engine harness for a 70, and use the internal regulator alternator (cheap, and will look better than a 40 year old part)!
Will prevent a lot of headaches/problems! When assembling pay attention to the extra grounds Vettes need being fiberglass bodied.
That's a definite possibility Barry. The auto electric guy said there was a place in the alternator housing for a regulator but it just wasn't there. I wish there was more of the wiring harness left intact that might confirm this theory.
Thanks,
-Doug
how exactly is that possible? without the regulator, how is the brush holder mounted?
how many wires were connected to the alternator when you removed it, and where were they connected?
maybe you have a 1-wire alternator with the plug capped off so it looks like there is no regulator.
how exactly is that possible? without the regulator, how is the brush holder mounted?
how many wires were connected to the alternator when you removed it, and where were they connected?
maybe you have a 1-wire alternator with the plug capped off so it looks like there is no regulator.
The brush holder and regulator are 2 different pieces in a 10SI alternator so technically it would be possible. The brush holder does mount on top of the regulator so some kind of spacer would be required.
In reality, they probably just swapped on a 10DI alternator until they got the parts to fix the 10SI alternator.
Also in reality, the parts store guy probably doesn't know what he's talking about when saying there was a space for a regulator.
Last edited by lionelhutz; May 12, 2016 at 10:13 AM.
The brush holder and regulator are 2 different pieces in a 10SI alternator so technically it would be possible. The brush holder does mount on top of the regulator so some kind of spacer would be required.
In reality, they probably just swapped on a 10DI alternator until they got the parts to fix the 10SI alternator.
Also in reality, the parts store guy probably doesn't know what he's talking about when saying there was a space for a regulator.
that's what I meant, if the regulator was gone it seems like an awful lot of work to make the brush holder mount properly, if someone modded it, you'd just leave the regulator in there and not hook it up so why go to the trouble...
my bet is the parts store guy is an idiot. I had a 1-wire on my ford tractor 6v to 12v conversion that went bad and the guy at the parts store was clueless how to test it or even get another one until I explained and an older worker pushed him aside to do it right
Also in reality, the parts store guy probably doesn't know what he's talking about when saying there was a space for a regulator.
The alternator is a 1100882, 61 Amp with the date code 8L12 (December 12 1968?)
I took it to an auto electric specialist (not a parts house) who replaced all the internals, installed a new regulator and, IMO, definitely does know what he's talking about.