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are you sure you need a new one and cannt reset the current one? do you know what happened to turn it on? what problem are you having in finding one appears to be only one?
Probably should have added this. The one I had is pretty rusty, that and I lost it. I'm bending new lines and I took it out so I could get better access. I set the old one down, and it's gone. I just need the little sensor that's in the middle of the proportioning valve.
Last edited by atthemattin; May 13, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
It is NOT a proportioning valve. There is no adjustment to set front/rear 'bias'. It is a distribution block with a shuttle valve which will prevent either front or rear brake set from operating if there is a hydraulic leak somewhere in the system. When that valve 'trips', it brings on the BRAKE light (same one that lights when e-brake is applied). 1970-1973 used the same block.
....When that valve 'trips', it brings on the BRAKE light (same one that lights when e-brake is applied). 1970-1973 used the same block.
If this does trip, does it need to be replaced? (Or once the leak in the system has been repaired, is it ok to still use)?
(My brake light is on in my 76 project that I just bought). I haven't gone through the brakes as of yet), but I'll be upgrading Master cylinder, all hard and soft lines etc and I just ran across this post. I know one of the soft lines in the front is wet / has leaked. Thought I'd ask.
Last edited by 76C3forme; May 14, 2016 at 04:28 PM.
The way you 'reset' it to correct [center] position is to STOMP on the brakes (engine running, if you have power brakes). Pressing on the brakes won't do it. Keep doing that until the "BRAKE" light goes out.
Front and rear brake sets must not have any leaks and the master cylinder & brakes need to be bled for that procedure to work.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 15, 2016 at 10:59 AM.
The way you 'reset' it to correct [center] position is to STOMP on the brakes (engine running, if you have power brakes). Pressing on the brakes won't do it. Keep doing that until the "BRAKE" light goes out.
Front and rear brake sets must not have any leaks and the master cylinder & brakes need to be bled for that procedure to work.
hey, good to know.. I'll keep that in mind. Been a little while since I've worked on an older system. Everything looks good and solid (as far as the hard lines) / with the normal rust, but since it's been sitting, (with DOT-3 fluid) absorbing water for quite sometime, It's due for new lines, master and brake system to play it safe. Luckily, all of the calipers looked to be SS sleeved so a rebuild should be ok for those.
I've got a couple of used switches. From what I remember, there were three different switches. You said the switch you received was too small which makes me wonder if you have the right valve. The 1970-1973 cars used the small switch...
One that was plastic 1978-1982 Thread size 1/2 x 20 I have one
One that was metal 1974-1977 Thread size 1/2 x 20 I have one
One that was metal 1969-1973 Thread size 7/16 x 20 I don't have one.