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Hey guys, I just installed Headers and Side Pipes on my 79 corvette. It has a Qjet with the number 7059216 on it. I opened it up to rejet it and found that it currently has size 72 main jets. What size should I change up to compensate for the new headers and side pipes?
Not sure if it's important but my car is a 4-speed (however the carb is from an automatic), the rest of the engine is stock at the moment.
Impossible to tell. It might need SLIGHTLY more fuel, but the only sure method of checking is with a A/F meter while the engine is at idle and WOT. Increasing the jet size will enrich the mixture at all ranges, decreasing the rod size will enrich the "operational" ranges only (assuming you use .026 tip rods). If you make any changes, do them in small steps.
You need to look at Lars' jet/rod charts and find a combo that richens it no more than 10% as recommended by Lars. And that's assuming your running rich....
Hey guys, I just installed Headers and Side Pipes on my 79 corvette. It has a Qjet with the number 7059216 on it. I opened it up to rejet it and found that it currently has size 72 main jets. What size should I change up to compensate for the new headers and side pipes?
Not sure if it's important but my car is a 4-speed (however the carb is from an automatic), the rest of the engine is stock at the moment.
Thanks
You may need to go with smaller primary and/or secondary metering rods to richen things since you are removing all that backpressure. Lars would know.
carbs are jetted for sea level so if you are above sea level your carb is already richer than it needs to be so changing jetting may not be necessary for your exhaust change. the formula for changing jetting for altitude is you reduce the jetting area 2% for every 1500 feet you are above sea level.
You need to look at Lars' jet/rod charts and find a combo that richens it no more than 10% as recommended by Lars. And that's assuming your running rich....
Thanks, looking at that it looks like going to a 74 jet should get me about 8% richer. I'm thinking that will be a good starting point.
If anyone else has headers and side pipes, I"m interested to hear what your setup is and particularly if you changed the metering rods.
carbs are jetted for sea level so if you are above sea level your carb is already richer than it needs to be so changing jetting may not be necessary for your exhaust change. the formula for changing jetting for altitude is you reduce the jetting area 2% for every 1500 feet you are above sea level.
Good info, thanks. I'm about 1100 feet above sea level.
Little, if any, primary mixture change is needed for part throttle cruising. With reduced back pressure at full throttle, enrichment may help. The beauty of the Quadrajet is that you can make changes with the secondary rods easily without disassembling the carb. Try this first before you dig into the primary side.
Little, if any, primary mixture change is needed for part throttle cruising. With reduced back pressure at full throttle, enrichment may help. The beauty of the Quadrajet is that you can make changes with the secondary rods easily without disassembling the carb. Try this first before you dig into the primary side.
WOT is where I would check with a sparkplug color check. if it is lean at cruise you will feel a surge.
The cost of a dyno pull will be less($60 to $75 for 3 pulls) than buying a A/F setup. Unless you plan on continued major modifications such as heads or total engine rebuilds, consider getting a dyno test. Plus the tech may make other suggestions as to timing or ignition problems that only show up at max output.
The cost of a dyno pull will be less($60 to $75 for 3 pulls) than buying a A/F setup. Unless you plan on continued major modifications such as heads or total engine rebuilds, consider getting a dyno test. Plus the tech may make other suggestions as to timing or ignition problems that only show up at max output.
I do actually plan to put some aluminum heads and a better cam in in the next few months, so I would like to have a way to read A/F. Seems like there has to be a company making a cheap usable o2 sensor and gauge setup that I can have welded into my collector. I have very little experience with this so I would appreciate reccomendations.
Just weld it in place at least 18" from the cylinder head. The meter instructions will recommend exact placement. But I think you will find that the A/F meters aren't so cheap! If you do plan on engine mods, keep the carb untouched until you get the engine running, and then adjust the carb.
Just weld it in place at least 18" from the cylinder head. The meter instructions will recommend exact placement. But I think you will find that the A/F meters aren't so cheap! If you do plan on engine mods, keep the carb untouched until you get the engine running, and then adjust the carb.
Ok thanks. Did a little research, looks like I can get the AEM wideband kit for a little under $200.
Do you know if I can leave the wideband 02 sensor in at all times? I read a forum post or two that said the sensor doesn't seem to last long so some people were only keeping it in when they were tuning. If that's the case, do I just plug the Bung with a bolt that is the same thread size as the sensor? Or do they make something to plug the 02 sensor bung with?
O2 sensors last for 100K miles in new cars. They can be removed and plugged if you wish, but then the wiring connection would be exposed to the elements. Install the bung, do a clean professional job on the wiring and "forget about it"- as my New York born and raised wife says.