Lower left dash pad
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
Lower left dash pad
I am replacing most of my interior to my 68. Is there a way to remove and adjust the lower left dash pad. While installing my new gauge cluster I noticed that it doesn't line up correctly as the dash pad looks slightly forward. and the screws seem not to bite correctly. Replacing and restoring the entire center console didn't seem that difficult until now. It almost looks like the last person who had this car didn't get the dash pad in all the way. I'm wondering is it an easy or hard fix to straighten it out.( the lower part has to go in about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch to get gauge cluster to line up properly. Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks jerry
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Jerry,
The left side dash pad is often quite difficult to install well. It can therefore be quite frustrating but you must remain cool to get really good results. The steering column must definitely be loosened at the firewall and at it support under the dash panel so it can be dropped at least several inches.
There are many other things to prevent it from moving far enough forward to obtain a good alignment with the shifter console and center gauge cluster.
To name a few: the drive cables for the tachometer and speedometer, the position of the dash harness as it passes below the 2 large gauges, the position of the duct running to the astro-vent in the panels corner, and the connection/height of the steering column mount.
How apart is the rest of the dash at this point? All the components including the shifter console and e-brake console must be loose to begin with and gradually tightened while maintaing the desired alignment.
One of those components can't make up for fit problems caused by other components that aren't just where they belong.
Regards,
Alan
The left side dash pad is often quite difficult to install well. It can therefore be quite frustrating but you must remain cool to get really good results. The steering column must definitely be loosened at the firewall and at it support under the dash panel so it can be dropped at least several inches.
There are many other things to prevent it from moving far enough forward to obtain a good alignment with the shifter console and center gauge cluster.
To name a few: the drive cables for the tachometer and speedometer, the position of the dash harness as it passes below the 2 large gauges, the position of the duct running to the astro-vent in the panels corner, and the connection/height of the steering column mount.
How apart is the rest of the dash at this point? All the components including the shifter console and e-brake console must be loose to begin with and gradually tightened while maintaing the desired alignment.
One of those components can't make up for fit problems caused by other components that aren't just where they belong.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; May 22, 2016 at 05:56 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,852
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Another thing that makes the 68-69 dash harder is how the main harness is routed behind the speedo and tach. In later years this was routed above and out of the way! On the 68-69 the main branch was right behind the speedo and tach and if not laying perfectly can cause an issue with fitment of the dash pad. . So make sure the dash main is not restricting you.
I've always found it easiest to work on the LH dash with the steering column removed from the car. It's only 9 bolts or so to remove and it makes this job way easier and will allow you to sit in the drivers seat and make adjustments without worrying about doing any damage to the dash pad while it's un-screwed.
Willcox
I've always found it easiest to work on the LH dash with the steering column removed from the car. It's only 9 bolts or so to remove and it makes this job way easier and will allow you to sit in the drivers seat and make adjustments without worrying about doing any damage to the dash pad while it's un-screwed.
Willcox
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
Hi Jerry,
The left side dash pad is often quite difficult to install well. It can therefore be quite frustrating but you must remain cool to get really good results. The steering column must definitely be loosened at the firewall and at it support under the dash panel so it can be dropped at least several inches.
There are many other things to prevent it from moving far enough forward to obtain a good alignment with the shifter console and center gauge cluster.
To name a few: the drive cables for the tachometer and speedometer, the position of the dash harness as it passes below the 2 large gauges, the position of the duct running to the astro-vent in the panels corner, and the connection/height of the steering column mount.
How apart is the rest of the dash at this point? All the components including the shifter console and e-brake console must be loose to begin with and gradually tightened while maintaing the desired alignment.
One of those components can't make up for fit problems caused by other components that aren't just where they belong.
Regards,
Alan
The left side dash pad is often quite difficult to install well. It can therefore be quite frustrating but you must remain cool to get really good results. The steering column must definitely be loosened at the firewall and at it support under the dash panel so it can be dropped at least several inches.
There are many other things to prevent it from moving far enough forward to obtain a good alignment with the shifter console and center gauge cluster.
To name a few: the drive cables for the tachometer and speedometer, the position of the dash harness as it passes below the 2 large gauges, the position of the duct running to the astro-vent in the panels corner, and the connection/height of the steering column mount.
How apart is the rest of the dash at this point? All the components including the shifter console and e-brake console must be loose to begin with and gradually tightened while maintaing the desired alignment.
One of those components can't make up for fit problems caused by other components that aren't just where they belong.
Regards,
Alan
Hello Alan thanks for the info. The whole center is removed from the dash back past the e brake assembly. I had removed the old cluster because the gauge bezel was broken, while apart cleaned up the lenses to the cluster re attached the gauges to the new gauge bezel installed radio and was re-installing it when I noticed the issue. The old one was out of alignment as well. I do agree with you that if one is wrong then all will be wrong as well. I am also realizing if I'm going to go through all that I might as well replace the dash panel. Left side and upper are mint but drivers side is all cracked around the steering column, probably caused by forcing the dash panel back on. A 50 year old dash is quite fragile. Thanks so much. Was hoping an easy fix but nothing worth while is ever easy. Is installing the new one difficult it kind of sounds that way. It is my driver and hate to have it down for long.
Thanks Jerry
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
Another thing that makes the 68-69 dash harder is how the main harness is routed behind the speedo and tach. In later years this was routed above and out of the way! On the 68-69 the main branch was right behind the speedo and tach and if not laying perfectly can cause an issue with fitment of the dash pad. . So make sure the dash main is not restricting you.
I've always found it easiest to work on the LH dash with the steering column removed from the car. It's only 9 bolts or so to remove and it makes this job way easier and will allow you to sit in the drivers seat and make adjustments without worrying about doing any damage to the dash pad while it's un-screwed.
Willcox
I've always found it easiest to work on the LH dash with the steering column removed from the car. It's only 9 bolts or so to remove and it makes this job way easier and will allow you to sit in the drivers seat and make adjustments without worrying about doing any damage to the dash pad while it's un-screwed.
Willcox
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,852
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Hello Alan thanks for the info. The whole center is removed from the dash back past the e brake assembly. I had removed the old cluster because the gauge bezel was broken, while apart cleaned up the lenses to the cluster re attached the gauges to the new gauge bezel installed radio and was re-installing it when I noticed the issue. The old one was out of alignment as well. I do agree with you that if one is wrong then all will be wrong as well. I am also realizing if I'm going to go through all that I might as well replace the dash panel. Left side and upper are mint but drivers side is all cracked around the steering column, probably caused by forcing the dash panel back on. A 50 year old dash is quite fragile. Thanks so much. Was hoping an easy fix but nothing worth while is ever easy. Is installing the new one difficult it kind of sounds that way. It is my driver and hate to have it down for long.
Thanks Jerry
Thanks Jerry
The dash pads get cracked usually when removed with the steering column in place. All the weight of the speedo, tach and other parts causes the pad to crack when sat on top of the steering column in the U area of the pad. This is another reason we remove the column when we do dash pads on a C3.
Willcox
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
High Jerry,
Yes, I'm afraid that there's easy way forward.
You HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL WITH YOUR NEW BEZEL OR YOU'LL BREAK IT.
I put the e-brake console and shifter console in place with the screws started but not tightened at all, then the same with the left side dash, then the gauge cluster and finally the right side pad.
When it's all in place I align things the way I want and then gradually tighten the screws in sequence while insuring the pieces don't move out of position as I tighten.
Getting a well aligned dash is a BIG job, but worth it.
Regards,
Alan
Yes, I'm afraid that there's easy way forward.
You HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL WITH YOUR NEW BEZEL OR YOU'LL BREAK IT.
I put the e-brake console and shifter console in place with the screws started but not tightened at all, then the same with the left side dash, then the gauge cluster and finally the right side pad.
When it's all in place I align things the way I want and then gradually tighten the screws in sequence while insuring the pieces don't move out of position as I tighten.
Getting a well aligned dash is a BIG job, but worth it.
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 282
From: Scottsdale Arizona
I recently installed the lower left dash pad in my 68 and did it with the steering column removed. I was also dealing with a new dash harness that was pretty stiff, but I managed to get it in place without too many problems. Just takes a little work to get it all lined up.
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Another thing to consider is getting a 4 pin molex plug setup, so you can take all those lamp wires and rewire the dash so that the 99 bulbs with gray wires are all wired together to one pin of the plug....the turn signals R&L also....etc...wire the tach to the speedo permanently that way just ONE ground spade lug, etc.....you maybe have to get two of those 4 pin plugs to accomodate the wires....been almost 20 years since I modified mine....another suggestion....I put GREEN LED lights in my dash....course I have white faced gauges....but they really light HELL outta the dash at night.....
and yes on the steering column, PIA that it is.....
and yes on the steering column, PIA that it is.....