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I just got 2 new power window motors and power window springs from Willcox. It definitely made difference on the driver side window as far as the speed and strength going up. On my passenger side however not so much. I believe it could be because of the orientation of the split in the rivet that holds the middle of the spring. Even when I had the regulator out and was moving it by hand with the new spring installed I could tell that as the arm was approaching the full up position, the power of the spring had not much effect on it.
Has anyone ever attempted to rotate the spring 180° so there would be an extra half turn on it when installed? I realize it may cause premature wear on the spring by increasing the preload but it seems to be the only way to make sure the spring still has enough "umph" to get the window all the way up. Thoughts?
If the spring isn't providing full assist all the way to the top then it is insufficiently wound. The mechanics of springs dictate that they provide nearly the same amount of force equally throughout their designed range. As long as a coil spring like used for the windows is not over-wound (such might even break it immediately) there is no reason to concern yourself about reduced life due to excessive preload.
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Hi Scott,
You will need a vice and a strong helper to get the proper tension on the spring.
Lock the top left part of the regulator in a vice.
Have your strong helper hold the arm while you remove the nut & bolt.
Move the arm to unwind the tension on the old spring.
Install the new spring and wind the arm back up and reinstall the bolt & nut.
Last edited by Peterbuilt; Jun 25, 2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Trying to get MORE compression on the spring is POINTLESS....and YES..I have tired and just keep it like GM designed. There is only so much coil room on the spring and trying to give it a little bit more...is NOT needed here...but don't believe me...give it a try...and do not send me the bill when you lop off a finger when it lets loose....or the spring snaps and takes out your eye.
Trying to get MORE compression on the spring is POINTLESS....and YES..I have tired and just keep it like GM designed. There is only so much coil room on the spring and trying to give it a little bit more...is NOT needed here...but don't believe me...give it a try...and do not send me the bill when you lop off a finger when it lets loose....or the spring snaps and takes out your eye.
DUB
That's exactly what I was saying. You can't get more/extra assist by winding the spring more tightly but if you are not getting proper assist all the way to the top of window travel you need to add another half-turn.
Coil (clock), compression and extension springs--the most common types--all give constant force throughout their usable range. The only spring I know of that has a somewhat variable force are coiled torsion springs of the sort you see used on garage doors. I say "somewhat" variable because the initial winding is what determines the amount of force delivered throughout its workable range. The force within that range stays nearly constant.
Well I did clock it an extra 180° this weekend. All eyes and appendages intact. It was obviously way too strong. I didn't even bother installing it in the door. There was no way that window was going to roll down. I had previously cleaned the regulator in my parts washer to remove years of old grease and dirt. I re-lubed it thoroughly with lithium grease. When the spring is off should the regulator rotate freely? There are a couple contact points that touch the gear plate as it rotates. Its not overly impossible to move but it definitely takes a deliberate effort. Well at least the question about clocking the spring has been answered. Don't bother.
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Is something worn out?
Could the rivet that holds the two parts together be worn out?
Also, check the rivet on the part with the two rollers and check if the rollers are worn out.
All the other rollers move freely. The rivet is in good shape. Thinking about taking some strips of 400 grit sandpaper and a lot of time and elbow grease to work those contact areas I mentioned before. I think the extra contact friction is the difference. Will update later.
When the spring is off should the regulator rotate freely?
From my experience (limited to replacing both broken springs on original regulators in one car), yes the regulator should rotate very freely. Both of mine did so even before cleaning and re-lubricating.
A lot of what you MAY be feeling MAY NOT matter IF you consider the actual position of the long arm on the regulator and its designed travel. Spinning the arm in a clocked positron to where the regulator will NEVER be..is kinda pointless in trying to get to move smoothly IF that is where you are feeling an added effort to move it.
ALSO...do not get all caught up in it being completely free flowing....take into account the spring. AS you know..it is stout....and with the motor...it may not be worth worrying about.
but ..I am not there and see what is going on. If you put the spring on and it wants to throw the long arm up and you have to hold it back to keep it from doing so...I would not loose any sleep over it myself...but do what make you feel happy.