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I will be looking at this once I install all my brake parts that I just picked up yesterday. Rear bumper just arrived too and front bumper should arrive this week. I can already tell the rear is going to be a huge PITA!!! I have fiberglass stuck in my fingers from trying to remove the rusted bumper tab nuts. Only have 3 more to remove then the rest of whats left of the bumper will come off.
I'll offer a tip I learned the hard way with mine... when fitting the new front bumper it will likely seem too wide I found that lining up and locking down the ends first and working my way towards the center from each end was the easiest (only) way to get the ends lined up decent. I still had to fill my fender area out a bit to match up with the bumper though.
And of course its best to paint the bumper prior to mounting unless your blending it in..
I'll offer a tip I learned the hard way with mine... when fitting the new front bumper it will likely seem too wide I found that lining up and locking down the ends first and working my way towards the center from each end was the easiest (only) way to get the ends lined up decent. I still had to fill my fender area out a bit to match up with the bumper though.
And of course its best to paint the bumper prior to mounting unless your blending it in..
Thanks for that info, any advise for the rear?? I have watched some vids on the front and some people go center to out and then others go out to center. What do you mean by fill your fender area out? Did you have to add resin or something?
Thanks for that info, any advise for the rear?? I have watched some vids on the front and some people go center to out and then others go out to center. What do you mean by fill your fender area out? Did you have to add resin or something?
I had to build out the ends of my front fenders to line up with the new bumper yeah,
I used evercoats "Vette panel adhesive" the stuff works WAAY better than resin its like a hard bondo that seems like liquid SMC... if you do end up doing body work I strongle recommend it, just remember to remove ALL paint from the area its being applied and roughing the surface with 80 grit is recommended for better adhesion.
if the front bumper ends up being smaller that your car start from the center out and it will push the bumper outward towards the ends more.. at least thats what I found.
The rear bumper is much easier than the front... (at least it was for me)
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 28, 2016 at 07:59 AM.
I had to build out the ends of my front fenders to line up with the new bumper yeah,
I used evercoats "Vette panel adhesive" the stuff works WAAY better than resin its like a hard bondo that seems like liquid SMC... if you do end up doing body work I strongle recommend it, just remember to remove ALL paint from the area its being applied and roughing the surface with 80 grit is recommended for better adhesion.
if the front bumper ends up being smaller that your car start from the center out and it will push the bumper outward towards the ends more.. at least thats what I found.
The rear bumper is much easier than the front... (at least it was for me)
When the front comes in I will let you know, you are only a few states away....
Hey guys I have another question, I have the opportunity to buy a real sick motor,trans, rear combo at a killer price "i think." I need your input on 1) if it will fit and 2) what I need to do to make it fit if it won't drop right in.
BBC 496 out of a 1991 Chev truck SS. 454 bored out.
TH400 Race built
Rear Art Morrison Ladder bars QA1 adjustable coils, Moser axles, strange spool, 35 spline, 456 strange housing steel yoke. This was out of a 71 Camaro. I want to put a solid rear in this at some point but I do not know if this rear would work. Motor has less than 20 passes. Asking 8500.00 for everything. OR 5k for motor, 7k for motor and trans. Can I get your all's thoughts? He lives about 4hrs away and told me to come down on a Friday and he's help me install it because he wants to see it in a vette. Said he would stand by the parts because he knows how they were built and what they are capable of.
I cant really add anything but to say you already have the th400 and they were used in rolls royces for a reason... They are built like a tank and have been known to handle upwards of 800hp in stock form according to the guys at speedtalk...
You will need to change a few things like springs I believe for a BB but no reason it wouldnt work... 74s came with 454's as an option.
I cant really add anything but to say you already have the th400 and they were used in rolls royces for a reason... They are built like a tank and have been known to handle upwards of 800hp in stock form according to the guys at speedtalk...
You will need to change a few things like springs I believe for a BB but no reason it wouldnt work... 74s came with 454's as an option.
Yea, thats what I had been reading that they were an option. I guess my question is leaning more towards brackets, mounts, that sort of think to make it fit right in. I know the hood will be an issue with how this motor currently is. But what springs? Shocks? This is going to be pretty much an all out race car/ car show car. Would like to take it out every now and then and cruise. Power steering isn't necessary but if i can keep it I would like too.
Hey guys I have another question, I have the opportunity to buy a real sick motor,trans, rear combo
By "sick" do you mean it got hurt racing, i.e. overheated, over revved? Or "sick" in the inexplicable slang term kids use now, as we said back in the day, "healthy"?
By "sick" do you mean it got hurt racing, i.e. overheated, over revved? Or "sick" in the inexplicable slang term kids use now, as we said back in the day, "healthy"?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by KevinsHVAC
One other question, Looking at Peterbuilts picture. If I move the distributor won't that effect my timing? I see where it says to move the wire over one spot but is there anyway to do this without lifting up the distributor and risking throwing the timing all out of wack?
You don't lift the distributor up. You loosen it, rotate it 45 degrees clockwise, move all the wires over 1 tower counter-clockwise, and then just re-set the timing as discussed above. Effectively what you're doing is simply rotating the distributor body underneath the cap. The rotor never changes position, and the cap/wires remain in the same position as they were before in relationship to the rotor and the engine compartment. This straightens out the tach cable.
Please forgive me for DARING to question you, but the OP said that the tach drive was facing the firewall, so surely he would need to turn the distributor around about 90 degrees and would then need to move the wires two towers rather than one, or am I missing something?
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Last edited by aussiejohn; Jul 10, 2016 at 11:10 AM.
Hey Kevin. Congrats on your '74 barn find and welcome to the forum. You may be interested in this thread by Papawana offering wiring diagrams. I got mine today...
Hey guys I have another question, I have the opportunity to buy a real sick motor,trans, rear combo at a killer price "i think." I need your input on 1) if it will fit and 2) what I need to do to make it fit if it won't drop right in.
BBC 496 out of a 1991 Chev truck SS. 454 bored out.
TH400 Race built
Rear Art Morrison Ladder bars QA1 adjustable coils, Moser axles, strange spool, 35 spline, 456 strange housing steel yoke. This was out of a 71 Camaro. I want to put a solid rear in this at some point but I do not know if this rear would work. Motor has less than 20 passes. Asking 8500.00 for everything. OR 5k for motor, 7k for motor and trans. Can I get your all's thoughts? He lives about 4hrs away and told me to come down on a Friday and he's help me install it because he wants to see it in a vette. Said he would stand by the parts because he knows how they were built and what they are capable of.
You might check closely if you decide on a 454. Some truck blocks are "Tall Deck" blocks. The stroke is longer so the deck is taller. This means the heads sit higher and exhaust headers will likely foul lots of underhood stuff.
Good luck with your new car!