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I need to ask for help with the brain trust of this forum. I have been a member for over a year and I have learned so much from other peoples posts, now I really need your help.....
I have a 1980 Vette, 350 with a turbo 350C transmission. I bought it a few years ago with hopes of driving it by now, but one problem has me stumped.
I start the car, runs great. Put it in reverse or drive and the engine stalls.
I double checked timing, good. Double and triple checked vacuum, good.
Checked for intake leaks, good.
I'm at wits end. A friend suggested it may be the trans, converter engaged killing the motor. How do I check this and how to repair?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ray
disconnect the plug to the solenoid or replace the solenoid. Have you ever changed the fluid and filter, good time to change the solenoid. What is the engine RPM in park when fully warmed up?
disconnect the plug to the solenoid or replace the solenoid. Have you ever changed the fluid and filter, good time to change the solenoid. What is the engine RPM in park when fully warmed up?
Rpm between 6-800, PO told me trans was rebuilt in the year prior to my purchase. Maybe Bubba has never seen a transmission with wires connected to it.
Unpluged solenoid, no change.
Ordered a new solenoid today, hopefully that fixes it, if now, that would be a good excuse to put in a 700R4.
I need to ask for help with the brain trust of this forum. I have been a member for over a year and I have learned so much from other peoples posts, now I really need your help.....
I have a 1980 Vette, 350 with a turbo 350C transmission. I bought it a few years ago with hopes of driving it by now, but one problem has me stumped.
I start the car, runs great. Put it in reverse or drive and the engine stalls.
I double checked timing, good. Double and triple checked vacuum, good.
Checked for intake leaks, good.
I'm at wits end. A friend suggested it may be the trans, converter engaged killing the motor. How do I check this and how to repair?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ray
What happens if you hold the brake left foot and put your right foot on the accelerator pedal till it revs at about 1,000-1200RPM then put it into Drive. will it stay running with a higher rev? If it still stalls out then it is in your engine to tranny connects
What happens if you hold the brake left foot and put your right foot on the accelerator pedal till it revs at about 1,000-1200RPM then put it into Drive. will it stay running with a higher rev? If it still stalls out then it is in your engine to tranny connects
As long as I "Power Brake"
, it runs, until I back off the throttle then it shuts down.
Just thinking totally "out loud" here, have you checked your "neutral safety switch" under the console that would be connected to the shifter? Now again only thinking "out loud" to myself.....lol if there is a malfunction there, it may be a possibility of sending the wrong signal everytime you put the selector in gear....again just thinking.....
And in all due respect to the member who suggested of reving the engine to 1000-1200 rpms and dropping into gear, I would never do that with any automatic transmission, you are just asking for trouble......
Where would the neutral switch send a wrong signal to ?
It' a 1980, no electronics, or am I missing something?
Since you have double checked everything, have you checked the carb?
Has it been rebuilt? Even if it hasn't there could be a possibility that the float is stuck, or that the screws going up though the carb from the bottom are loose?
Could also be timing issue, even though you checked it out. Is #1 piston @TDC with the rotor at #1 plug wire post on the dist cap?
Also check fuel pump, fuel pressure, fuel filter inside of carb...
Since you have double checked everything, have you checked the carb?
Has it been rebuilt? Even if it hasn't there could be a possibility that the float is stuck, or that the screws going up though the carb from the bottom are loose?
Could also be timing issue, even though you checked it out. Is #1 piston @TDC with the rotor at #1 plug wire post on the dist cap?
Also check fuel pump, fuel pressure, fuel filter inside of carb...
Carb was where I went first, nothing out of the ordinary found, even changed to a known good carb, still the same. Timing is right on, fuel pump good, all filters new.
Hope it is the solenoid. The car runs great, has that low rumble that makes me glad I got the car, just dies when in gear.
As much checking, tuning, tweaking,cussing, throwing tools, kicking over beer cans and screaming, I know it has to be something simple.
Carb was where I went first, nothing out of the ordinary found, even changed to a known good carb, still the same. Timing is right on, fuel pump good, all filters new.
Hope it is the solenoid. The car runs great, has that low rumble that makes me glad I got the car, just dies when in gear.
As much checking, tuning, tweaking,cussing, throwing tools, kicking over beer cans and screaming, I know it has to be something simple.
I hope it is something simple, something like when you put it in gear the vibration of the engine causes a short or some electrical wire, etc., to vibrate loose and causes the engine to shut down. Had something similar happen to my 82 which turned out to be a broken coil wire under the coil cover. Engine would shut down on the highway for 2-3 seconds, lost all power and then come back on. And this was happening while doing 60 mph on the highway.
Don't give up, just kick somemore beer cans when you get a chance.
As long as I "Power Brake"
, it runs, until I back off the throttle then it shuts down.
Not neutral safety, that is for starting car in park or neutral only. If it runs when you power brake it's a vacuum issue. Sucking too much vacuum to keep motor running. Modulator will blowbtranny fluid through exhaust if bad and not gives smooth shift. If you make idle high with gas pedal and hold brake when putting into gear and it will go that is vacuum. Trace it. Something is cutting off the air or fuel to carb or sucking vacuum.
it would be best to start a new thread. You arent giving much information as far as year, engine, carburetor, etc. Generally speaking the idle speed screw is on the drivers side of the carburetor.
I need to ask for help with the brain trust of this forum. I have been a member for over a year and I have learned so much from other peoples posts, now I really need your help.....
I have a 1980 Vette, 350 with a turbo 350C transmission. I bought it a few years ago with hopes of driving it by now, but one problem has me stumped.
I start the car, runs great. Put it in reverse or drive and the engine stalls.
I double checked timing, good. Double and triple checked vacuum, good.
Checked for intake leaks, good.
I'm at wits end. A friend suggested it may be the trans, converter engaged killing the motor. How do I check this and how to repair?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ray
What carb do you have? Just thinking that if it was running really lean, it would possibly cut out on you. Did you try adjusting the fuel air screws, aka "tach out the carb"?
Did the problem always exist?